ilovemy1974b80 28 #1 Posted December 8, 2021 What should I torque my wheel for a 1974 b80 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,496 #2 Posted December 8, 2021 Standard bolt torque spec off charts shows 37 lb or so for a grade 5 7/16 is fine. I usually go ahead more than that... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ilovemy1974b80 28 #3 Posted December 8, 2021 I’ll just play it safe and go with what you said thank you 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,004 #4 Posted December 8, 2021 37 ftlb for 7/16 grade 5 bolts sounds about right. You should go back and re check the torque after a couple hours of operation. If you have grade 8 bolts/studs, you could go to 80 ftlb. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,496 #5 Posted December 9, 2021 8 minutes ago, 8ntruck said: . You should go back and re check the torque after a couple hours of operation. Oh good call. I do that and forgot to mention it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,455 #6 Posted December 9, 2021 (edited) 14 hours ago, ilovemy1974b80 said: I’ll just play it safe and go with what you said thank you I have a battery powered impact [not very strong] when, it makes good contact done. Double check with a breaker bar. Use the crisscross method = top bottom left right and so on. Edited December 9, 2021 by Retierd Wrencher 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,870 #7 Posted December 9, 2021 Crank it ‘til it snaps, then back off half a turn In all honesty, we’re going 7 mph or less in most instances. Tight is tight… I just have that “feel” for tight. I’ve never torqued a wheel stud on a garden tractor and don’t ever plan to. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,306 #8 Posted December 9, 2021 (edited) Many people develop a feel for correct tightness, others strip threads and snap bolts. A torque specification can be very helpful in preventing failures. Edited December 11, 2021 by lynnmor 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,496 #9 Posted December 9, 2021 28 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Many people develop a fell for correct tightness, others strip threads and snap bolts. A torque specification can be very helpful in preventing failures. I am most certainly guilty of over tightening fasteners of many types on many occasions. Trina assures me there is a difference between Regular Tight and Bear Tight..... that is why I use a torque wrench. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #10 Posted December 9, 2021 57 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Many people develop a feel for correct tightness There's a joint in my wrist that 'snaps' at 30 foot pounds. I wish it was adjustable! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,455 #11 Posted December 9, 2021 (edited) Regular Tight and Bear Tight. I hear you on that. But as we get older, I think you have a better feel because we have less muscle. When I was young, I had the Bear tight to many times. Edited December 9, 2021 by Retierd Wrencher 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,361 #12 Posted December 9, 2021 5 hours ago, Pullstart said: In all honesty, we’re going 7 mph or less in most instances. Tight is tight… I just have that “feel” for tight. I’ve never torqued a wheel stud on a garden tractor and don’t ever plan to. Agree whole heartily! These aren't HP vehicles, I tighten my lugs with A 1/4" impact driver. I try to make sure I don't over tighten them, but have yet to lose any. And highly doubt I ever will. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #13 Posted December 10, 2021 I use a Porter Cable 1/2 impact on rear lugs, 1/4 impact on front bolts. Rear 3 ugga duggas Front 3 iggy diggys 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,496 #14 Posted December 10, 2021 35 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said: I use a Porter Cable 1/2 impact on rear lugs, 1/4 impact on front bolts. Rear 3 ugga duggas Front 3 iggy diggys I believe @Pullstartapproves of this method. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,870 #15 Posted December 10, 2021 37 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said: I use a Porter Cable 1/2 impact on rear lugs, 1/4 impact on front bolts. Rear 3 ugga duggas Front 3 iggy diggys 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I believe @Pullstartapproves of this method. absolutely acceptable, except I highly recommend 4 of each unless you’re running an M18 Milwaukee. Then 2 of each is sufficient. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #16 Posted December 10, 2021 12 minutes ago, Pullstart said: absolutely acceptable, except I highly recommend 4 of each unless you’re running an M18 Milwaukee. Then 2 of each is sufficient. With how Milwaukee ripped me off id never own another one. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #17 Posted December 10, 2021 7 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said: With how Milwaukee ripped me off id never own another one. I bought their super fancy high end 5" grinder, 11amps, digital speed governor, cut-off guard and grinder guard. It was like 225 bucks in a time when you could getca Dewalt for 55. So...i used it to sharpen a couple blades...worked great. Next day..wouldn't come on. Took it apart, armature tested good, had 120vac coming into the printed circuit board, no power out. Contacted Milwaukee...they said if your power input is over 120vac it will burn up the board...mine tested at 124vac in my shop. They said I could buy the part for 105 shipped or ship it to them on my dime and pay for the part and it would be $145 to fix. I put it in the trash.. bought my porter cable grinder, plugged it into the same outlet and ive sharpened easily 1200 blades with it...not one issue. Cousin bought an M18 Fuel drill and the thing broke the gearbox wirh a 1" paddle bit in wood, he hammers in pipes to move around logs. Milwaukee told him it must be abuse...no warranty...so he bought a Makita, same bit...hundreds of holes, no problems. I know people swear by Milwaukee tools but... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,361 #18 Posted December 10, 2021 I swear by mine, they've never failed me. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #19 Posted December 10, 2021 7 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said: power input is over 120vac it will burn up the board. TOTAL BS from them. No question about it. Probably over half the US has a nominal AC voltage above 120 VAC. Mine is typically above 125. They would not, and could not, have gotten agency certification (like UL or Underwriters) if it burns out above120 VAC. You were being fed a line of crap. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #20 Posted December 10, 2021 2 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: TOTAL BS from them. No question about it. Probably over half the US has a nominal AC voltage above 120 VAC. Mine is typically above 125. They would not, and could not, have gotten agency certification (like UL or Underwriters) if it burns out above120 VAC. You were being fed a line of crap. Oh i know..heck i used to goose up my generator to 130vac for more zing on my old power tools and never had any electrical problems. 124 should be well within parameters 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #21 Posted December 10, 2021 On 12/9/2021 at 10:51 AM, Pullstart said: 7 mph or less in most instances HellHorse Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #22 Posted December 10, 2021 18 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: Mine is typically above 125 As is mine... except for when the power goes out... then it is like .1... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,870 #23 Posted December 10, 2021 19 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: TOTAL BS from them. No question about it. Probably over half the US has a nominal AC voltage above 120 VAC. Mine is typically above 125. They would not, and could not, have gotten agency certification (like UL or Underwriters) if it burns out above120 VAC. You were being fed a line of crap. I believe electrical standard of testing is operation between 80% and 120% of rated power. 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger R 448 #24 Posted December 11, 2021 Used Milwaukee power tools for over 50 years, with no problems. Incidentally I have one of the last all metal drill motors they ever made, before plastic frames. The problem is there is no variable speed control, and no reverse. I bought it new when they were closing them out, Needless to say it has seen very little use, but it's a nice old relic. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #25 Posted December 11, 2021 I've got an old Milwaukee Sawzall that has seen LOTS of service over the past 40 some odd years. About ten years ago the variable speed circuit gave up and only had full or none. I called MW and they sent me a new trigger assembly for FREE! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites