1968 commando 6 HH60 Help

[mason_811 24]

Working on an HH60 from a commando 6. Put new ignition components in the magneto housing. When I put the flywheel on, it binds. My research has been showing that the placement of the magneto doesn't matter. I've tried adjusting it for hours, can't get it to fit. Binding against the armatures. What should I do (other than buy a new engine, I would like to see this one run again)

[pfrederi 17,741]

Is the inside of the flywheel clean, any loose magnets??

[ebinmaine 67,671]

@Gregor

You've messed with these too.   Any thoughts?

 

 

[mason_811 24]

Inside of flywheel. Just lots of wear marks from me coloring things with sharpie to see exactly what rubs

[16 Automatic 53]

Is that keyway key too tall and pushing the flywheel off center? All the scratches look like the opposite the keyway slot. Just a thought.

[Gregor 4,846]

I remember it well. The Techuseh Tale. I had the same problem with an H70. Rust, corrosion, etc. expands metal. In the end, I took my small side grinder with a flap disc, and "carefully" sanded down the protruding parts of the magneto assembly. We are only talking thousandths of an inch here. There is no forward or backward adjustment of the magneto assembly. All you can do is rotate it to adjust timing. I didn't do mine any harm, I don't believe you will hurt yours either. Mine runs very well. Although it is no longer red.

Where are my manners? to

Edited December 6, 2021 by Gregor

[RED-Z06 2,221]

Although intended for timing, loosening the ignition bolts can give a very slight amount of in and out movement.  The trick is timing.  I take the head off, flywheel off, put a dime on the piston, run it down the hole, remove head gasket and put the head back on..run the piston back up (in the operating direction) until it stops.  Then put a continuity tester on both sides of the points and rotate the base until the points (prior already gapped at .020") just open..then tap the base back just until they close...and snug the bolts.

 

Remove dime...assemble.

[mason_811 24]

7 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

Although intended for timing, loosening the ignition bolts can give a very slight amount of in and out movement.  The trick is timing.  I take the head off, flywheel off, put a dime on the piston, run it down the hole, remove head gasket and put the head back on..run the piston back up (in the operating direction) until it stops.  Then put a continuity tester on both sides of the points and rotate the base until the points (prior already gapped at .020") just open..then tap the base back just until they close...and snug the bolts.

 

Remove dime...assemble.

Thanks for the tip. That's easier than finding out which one of my buddies garage my dial gauge is in. I'll be tackling the timing once I get some fire to happen.

[RED-Z06 2,221]

2 hours ago, mason_811 said:

Thanks for the tip. That's easier than finding out which one of my buddies garage my dial gauge is in. I'll be tackling the timing once I get some fire to happen.

Where i used to work i had an HH70 on an ariens tillers that came in in a box, i put on the new coil, points, condenser, but it just wouldn't go...and when it did, it ran badly.  Old boss came out..showed me that trick and in 20 minutes he had the thing purring like new.

[ebinmaine 67,671]

2 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

trick is timing

Neat trick

[mason_811 24]

I'll try to keep everyone updated on the progress. I'll probably end up making a new thread. I won't be home to work on it for at least 3 days. Hopefully in that time I can source a head gasket locally (probably not) so I can get the timing squared away. Also have to find the carb somewhere in my garage. I rebuilt it about 2 or 3 years ago and never had a chance to throw it on. 

[Gregor 4,846]

4 hours ago, mason_811 said:

so I can get the timing squared away.

 

6 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

remove head gasket and put the head back on..

 

[RED-Z06 2,221]

4 hours ago, mason_811 said:

I'll try to keep everyone updated on the progress. I'll probably end up making a new thread. I won't be home to work on it for at least 3 days. Hopefully in that time I can source a head gasket locally (probably not) so I can get the timing squared away. Also have to find the carb somewhere in my garage. I rebuilt it about 2 or 3 years ago and never had a chance to throw it on. 

Usually these head gaskets are reusable, not graphite like most modern engines.  

[ebinmaine 67,671]

7 hours ago, mason_811 said:

new thread

Curious to know why start a new thread?

These can be added onto any time. 

 

Might be best if you update this thread instead of starting a new one. That way all the info is in the same place. 

 

Better for future reference that way.   

 

[mason_811 24]

5 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

Usually these head gaskets are reusable, not graphite like most modern engines.  

Hmm, that's news to me. I'm used to mostly modern and solid state engines. I worked at a toro/wright/cub/stihl dealer for 4 years. Saw a good share of old equipment, but have never seen a reusable head gasket. Knowing my luck it'll get damaged coming apart. 

[mason_811 24]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Curious to know why start a new thread?

These can be added onto any time. 

 

Might be best if you update this thread instead of starting a new one. That way all the info is in the same place. 

 

Better for future reference that way.   

 

I'll keep it all here. Other forums I've been a part of I've seen a lot of people do a thread for all their issues. Once the full disassembly and attempted restoration (thats gonna be fun) happens I'll probably move to the build thread. But until this thing runs on gas I'll stay here. Thanks everyone for your advice so far!!!!

[RED-Z06 2,221]

3 hours ago, mason_811 said:

Hmm, that's news to me. I'm used to mostly modern and solid state engines. I worked at a toro/wright/cub/stihl dealer for 4 years. Saw a good share of old equipment, but have never seen a reusable head gasket. Knowing my luck it'll get damaged coming apart. 

Alot of older engines i see had more of a hard metal gadket with perforations or dimples in it, while newer ones are graphoil..graphite layers sandwiching a steel core...these fall apart.  Often the good reusable ones have a steel "fire ring" on the inside to further reduce blowouts.

 

 

[mason_811 24]

Found a head gasket at my old shop for $5. Might as well get it just in case. Can never be too careful

[mason_811 24]

Well everyone, sorry for not posting sooner. Adjusted the timing with the dime trick. Didn't get it exact as I ran out of adjustment but got very close. Put the carb on, ran some gas thru. After tweaking the mixture screws a little bit I got it to idle. I didnt have much of a test tank for it to run it for a prolonged period to fine tune the carb. All in all, I'm very happy to see this engine run after 15 years. 

[RED-Z06 2,221]

Sounds smooth...idling was usually the hardest part 

[Gregor 4,846]

Well everyone, sorry for not posting sooner. Adjusted the timing with the dime trick. Didn't get it exact as I ran out of adjustment but got very close. Put the carb on, ran some gas thru. After tweaking the mixture screws a little bit I got it to idle. I didnt have much of a test tank for it to run it for a prolonged period to fine tune the carb. All in all, I'm very happy to see this engine run after 15 years.

 

My small engine guy says the timing on these little Teckys is not that critical. Apparently, he is right. To be honest, I didn't have much faith in this timing method, but it seems to have worked.

[mason_811 24]

First off, Merry Christmas everyone!!!

Second, sorry for the hiatus. I haven't had the time to mess with the tractor much. Today though I put the engine back on the tractor and hooked everything back up. After a bit of time playing with the carb, I got it going. Lo and behold it moves under its own power!!! A Christmas present from

15-16 years ago is going again! But unfortunately, there are some gremlins. The crank seal on the pto side decided to give up. The fuel petcock leaks and the drain for the carb leaks. The seals should still be available, and for the carb I'll probably just get a bowl w/o a drain as I really am not pressed to have it. Anyway, if it stays warm I can address these issues sooner than waiting for spring. Cheers! 

 

(BTW the videos are too long to post)

 

After posting and rewatching my video, I realized I never took the time to check the crankcase breather tube. I'd wager that its plugged just like the cooling fins, petcock, and fuel lines were. Doh!

 

- Mason

Edited December 25, 2021 by mason_811

[Handy Don 12,237]

Sounds like good progress!

 

2 hours ago, mason_811 said:

I'll probably just get a bowl w/o a drain

Hey, if you go that way please PM me -- I'd gladly use a bowl with a drain even if I have to find a way to replace the seal!

[ebinmaine 67,671]

Great to hear your ride is up and running!!

 

No worries on the gremlins. Just part of the process. 👍

 

 

Fuel petcock should be readily available at a decent hardware store. 

Engine seals are certainly available. Quite likely will be cheaper to buy an engine gasket FULL KIT.  Just check that carefully. 

At that point you'd have everything you need to refresh ALL the gaskets and seals again. To replace the seals you'll need to remove/replace the head gasket again as well.  Also a good idea to replace the head bolts because they're only meant to be retorqued a finite amount of times. 

 

 

 

13 hours ago, mason_811 said:

drain for the carb leaks

 

11 hours ago, Handy Don said:

replace the seal

 

Trina's Military Tribute Tractor "Millie" has a Tecumseh 10 horse engine. For the carb bowl on that I found it wasn't the seal being bad. It was that the bowl's sealing surface was pitted. I didn't have a compatible bowl here and this one wasn't savable so I JB Welded the drain pin to the bowl. Been fine since. 

 

 

13 hours ago, mason_811 said:

BTW the videos are too long to post

On the videos the site (policy/request) is to post your videos from YouTube to the page. A link uses next to no memory. 

It works out better for members too. I can't open a lot of videos because of limited memory space on my phone. 

 

 

Keep us posted!!

 

[mason_811 24]

12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

On the videos the site (policy/request) is to post your videos from YouTube to the page.

.... why didn't I think of that. I think my channel has sat just as long as the tractor! 

Here's the link

https://youtube.com/shorts/GqKnmi1h9uA?feature=share

Don't mind the oil on top of the crank cover, thats just spillage from changing the oil. I can make a better walk around video when I have daylight and am not stuck to the confines of the shed.