414-8 tranny drain plug

[Mustang67ford 234]

Is this the tranny drain plug?  What is it supposed to be, an allen hex head?  Looks awfully messed up.  After doing some research, it looks like it is but the draw bar tends to hit it?  Any hints to getting it out in this condition?

[SylvanLakeWH 25,921]

Yes that’s the drain plug. 
 

Yes it’s a hex.

 

Go very easy on the removal… make sure it’s clean if all gunk so you get full bite on the wrench…

 

Man…something really jiggered that up… if it won’t budge, maybe dremmel tool to grind cut that little ridge?

[peter lena 8,720]

@Mustang67ford  agree with    @SylvanLakeWH  on that solid removal detail , looks like a allen/ torx type ,tap it in place  I like the socket type on a small breaker bar, the more solid the fit , the easier it will come out , go easy and slow , if the plug is bad   , replace it with a new one , jake up the front end to enhance the drainage , you might have to do it a couple of times depending on how bad it looks , new shift boot , pete 

[Mustang67ford 234]

Thanks.  I'll be messing with this soon.  Is that a standard drain plug?  Anybody think of replacing with a normal plug like on the fill or should I replace with the same thing?  Any fix to keep the draw bar from hitting?

[stevasaurus 22,860]

Yes, it is a standard pipe fitting plug, available at any hardware store.  You could put in a hex head.  It depends on how you use that horse.  If you are running over logs, stones, large debris, the Allen head plug gives you a flush mount.  

[Mustang67ford 234]

7 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

Yes, it is a standard pipe fitting plug, available at any hardware store.  You could put in a hex head.  It depends on how you use that horse.  If you are running over logs, stones large debris, the Allen plug gives you a flush mount.  

That makes sense.  Wonder why mine is sticking down?  Guess that is why it was getting hit by the hitch.

[lynnmor 7,353]

3 hours ago, Mustang67ford said:

Wonder why mine is sticking down?  Guess that is why it was getting hit by the hitch.

I think they all stuck out a bit and some implements may hit them.  I tapped the transmission a bit deeper and ground off a small amount of the plug to get it flush.

[Mustang67ford 234]

23 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I think they all stuck out a bit and some implements may hit them.  I tapped the transmission a bit deeper and ground off a small amount of the plug to get it flush.

If you were able to grind it some and still get a bite to take it out, that makes me a little less worries when I go to take this one out.

[Mustang67ford 234]

On 12/5/2021 at 11:34 AM, peter lena said:

@Mustang67ford  agree with    @SylvanLakeWH  on that solid removal detail , looks like a allen/ torx type ,tap it in place  I like the socket type on a small breaker bar, the more solid the fit , the easier it will come out , go easy and slow , if the plug is bad   , replace it with a new one , jake up the front end to enhance the drainage , you might have to do it a couple of times depending on how bad it looks , new shift boot , pete 

Ever try an impact gun on the removal? Sometimes the jolting will help knock loose.  Or, will that strip it?

[lynnmor 7,353]

Just now, Mustang67ford said:

If you were able to grind it some and still get a bite to take it out, that makes me a little less worries when I go to take this one out.

 

You will need to make your own judgement on removing material from the drain plug, they can vary in depth of the hex.

[lynnmor 7,353]

1 minute ago, Mustang67ford said:

Ever try an impact gun on the removal? Sometimes the jolting will help knock loose.  Or, will that strip it?

 

 

I made up a tool from a larger hex wrench so that it could be hammered in the bad socket and get a grip.

[peter lena 8,720]

@Mustang67ford  personally would not use an impact gun on that , a socket Allen or torx type just to get a solid fit , , if its that bad you might even drill thru the  existing hole and use a short easy out , on a breaker bar . you might even try a curved jaw vise grip plyer on that , the tighter the grip , the better the chances , go easy on your start , don't waste a solid bite . never had one that did not move on a breaker bar . pete

[Mustang67ford 234]

Got it loose.  There was a lot of slop between the plug and the hex, but was enough to get a bite.  Was sweating that one a little.

[peter lena 8,720]

@Mustang67ford  jack up the front end when you flush out that trans fluid , for more drainage , you can use an atf fluid , or fuel oil for a flushing oil refill, put some time on it and preferably  miles and time , along with every gear , and hi low ranges , the more that flush oil works the better , dump it out and fresh oil 80-90 wt  2qts , replace shift boot . if your oil refill stays looking like oil , you are good , if it starts turning milky nasty looking , flush it out again . been there done that . pete   

[pfrederi 17,866]

If your hitch still hits the drain plug see if there is any side to side play if there is put a 3/4" washer on the other side of the hitch pin

[Handy Don 12,451]

40 minutes ago, Mustang67ford said:

Got it loose.  There was a lot of slop between the plug and the hex, but was enough to get a bite.  Was sweating that one a little.

Your not planning on putting that one back in, right?! 

Get a new magnetic one.

[peter lena 8,720]

@SylvanLakeWH , that trans oil change is a vital part of my BASELINE SERVICE , something I  refer to for a newbie  tractor check over . once you go over operable areas to verify its function and need of repair , that's your advantage point . making me enhance its operation zone , literally go from point to point , and bring it up to my standard , ex, wiring works , but tight fitting and chafed , change out , eliminate faults, rusty stiff , lubricate and washer it up for improved function . check my fluid levels often , fresh and no surprises , regularly detail in a faulty function spot, for easier / smoother function . this is only me , but my stuff works without effort  and its reliability is solid.  TAKE ADVANTAGE OF ANY FUNCTIONING AREA, AND MAKE IT BETTER . if you want to . EX.  that pto lever slop , washer up the end next to side of battery frame area , over 3/8 " washers / grease , make it firm , works like it should . important , everything i just said is not in the book , that's why I do it , keep it greasy , pete

[Mustang67ford 234]

On 12/7/2021 at 7:25 PM, peter lena said:

@Mustang67ford  jack up the front end when you flush out that trans fluid , for more drainage , you can use an atf fluid , or fuel oil for a flushing oil refill, put some time on it and preferably  miles and time , along with every gear , and hi low ranges , the more that flush oil works the better , dump it out and fresh oil 80-90 wt  2qts , replace shift boot . if your oil refill stays looking like oil , you are good , if it starts turning milky nasty looking , flush it out again . been there done that . pete   

Will do, thanks.

[Mustang67ford 234]

On 12/7/2021 at 7:36 PM, Handy Don said:

Your not planning on putting that one back in, right?! 

Get a new magnetic one.

No, got a new one to put in when ready to change fluid.  Didn't tighten it back up the whole way.  The one I got is OEM.

[Mustang67ford 234]

On 12/7/2021 at 7:28 PM, pfrederi said:

If your hitch still hits the drain plug see if there is any side to side play if there is put a 3/4" washer on the other side of the hitch pin

Thanks, great info.