Fredo 56 #26 Posted December 1, 2021 1 minute ago, Maxwell-8 said: Or those $$$$ gearboxes they use on pickups or atv for mudbogging? 😉 portal axles might be the way to go but havent checked pricing. I have portal axles on my Unimog 404 and man the crawl gearing skyrockets, it will climb a wall! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,593 #27 Posted December 1, 2021 18 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said: Has a 8 pinions so it's the stranger manual can be locked either trough welding or by flipping gears(less strong @Greentored Scott has a transmission with flipped pinion gears. He's had no issues with it. I'd advise against welding them. Remember if you weld the gears you can't put them back to original and replacing them will be that much more difficult. ... and they aren't making new ones anymore. I'd be VERY interested to see how you update/upgrade the brakes. Would they be direct to the axle shafts? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,277 #28 Posted December 1, 2021 3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I'd advise against welding them. Remember if you weld the gears you can't put them back to original Absolutely! 4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Would they be direct to the axle shafts? Think I was saying earlier on the transmission were the current brake is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fredo 56 #29 Posted December 1, 2021 2 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said: Think I was saying earlier on the transmission were the current brake is. Well depending if i go with portal axles then they could be on the axles and it be dual brake system vs one on the current location on the transmission. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,593 #30 Posted December 1, 2021 20 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said: so on the tranny shaft The caliper(s) would likely be an improvement over a drum but the big issue with a Wheelhorse brake is the location itself. The brakes being tied to the interior of the transmission allows free wheeling following a breakage. If the brake could be relocated to the axle shafts it would be much safer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,593 #31 Posted December 1, 2021 3 minutes ago, Fredo said: Well depending if i go with portal axles then they could be on the axles and it be dual brake system vs one on the current location on the transmission. I've mulled over a way to retro fit a dual drum system to the axles. @Oldskool has done it on his "Hiram" tractor build. I'd I could perfect/duplicate a good working system I'd add it to at least a couple of my own woods/forestry tractors. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,277 #32 Posted December 1, 2021 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I've mulled over a way to retro fit a dual drum system to the axles. @Oldskool has done it on his "Hiram" tractor build. I'd I could perfect/duplicate a good working system I'd add it to at least a couple of my own woods/forestry tractors. I like the way it is done on some d-series and cub cadets.dual disc brakes 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,601 #33 Posted December 2, 2021 4 hours ago, Fredo said: Use existing headlight but change to LED bulbs and custom make yellow acrylic cover. If you plan on seeing anything in the dark, I would suggest adding some auxiliary head lamps. Even with 1156 LEDs those factory head lights are only slightly better than holding a candle out in front of you. I have these on a couple of my tractors, they really light up your world. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Lights-Driving-Round-Offroad/dp/B00VL4H78W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3GO4JRBZN7CCQ&keywords=mini%2Bdriving%2Blight&qid=1638409247&sprefix=mini%2Bdriving%2B%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-5&th=1 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,277 #34 Posted December 2, 2021 12 hours ago, Fredo said: believe he said its a 4" lift I did some research he lifted the body from the transmission. In my opinions that has little to no advantages as I will make the center of gravity higher without increasing the ground clearance. I think those crawl boxes are a way better option.(maybe ones that will actually increase speed) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,905 #35 Posted December 2, 2021 3 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said: I did some research he lifted the body from the transmission. In my opinions that has little to no advantages as I will make the center of gravity higher without increasing the ground clearance. I think those crawl boxes are a way better option.(maybe ones that will actually increase speed) A body lift keeps majority of weight low, improving center of gravity over a full lift. The real advantage is the bigger tires and more clearance under the transmission. I agree, it seems like a lot of work for a little gain but in certain situations, every inch (or less) counts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slim67 2,735 #36 Posted December 2, 2021 what size tires are those on the rear, Kevin? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fredo 56 #37 Posted December 3, 2021 11 hours ago, Pullstart said: A body lift keeps majority of weight low, improving center of gravity over a full lift. This makes sense because you are not lifting the trans 4" plus the 4 inches the tires will do. It would translate to about an 8" lift total if I used portals. It would make more sense to lift the body just to clear the tires. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fredo 56 #38 Posted December 3, 2021 On 12/1/2021 at 2:16 PM, Maxwell-8 said: Nice tractor, Just way to clean to make a mudmower from! I wouldn't do it. After going through this tractor i am consider leaving this one alone and just fix the wiring issues. It is a nice tractor for sure! I will be using the commnado 6 and the 657 to make a mud mower instead since they are both real rough. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,277 #39 Posted December 3, 2021 3 hours ago, Fredo said: I will be using the commnado 6 and the 657 lighter machines do better in the mud! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,593 #40 Posted December 3, 2021 6 hours ago, Fredo said: After going through this tractor i am consider leaving this one alone and just fix the wiring issues. It is a nice tractor for sure! I will be using the commnado 6 and the 657 to make a mud mower instead since they are both real rough. I like that you see the diamond in the rough of the C series. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,214 #41 Posted December 20, 2021 I really gotta start checking in here more often This is my B-100, also known as the B-1 bomber. Theres a ton of mods on it, but as far as mods to make it hold up, very little needs to be done to a Horse. How crazy are you planning to get with it? As for 'absolute must have mods' as follows: Lock the diff! If you have an 8 pinion, you can absolutely flip them and call it a day- I have put mine through h-e-double hockey sticks and zero issues. Front spindles need to be the bolt style to hold wheels on, not clips. Also not a bad idea to drill and tap the tops of the spindles and use a big washer to hold them in place in the axle as well. Beef/brace up the steering arms where they attach to the spindle- this is a weak point, and if you jam a tire against something, you WILL snap it off. Tie rods- whip up a set with heim ends. Trans/frame brace- this is a weak point even on stock Horses that get used hard, lots of info out there for this mod. Your rear hubs WILL come loose, especially being locked up in rear- thats a ton of stress. At the very minimum install new locking screws and check them every ride. Better yet, clean the hubs and axles spotless and use loctite green 'sleeve retainer'- they will never move again. Yes you'll need heat to disassemble if the need arises. You can get a 26" rear tire under them if you're willing to 'roll' the fender lips a bit and perhaps trim the floorboard/fender meeting point. Most guys run 25s. I run the stock rear brake and have had no issues, but I also dont ride it to slow down on high speed runs and chance overheating it. If you plan to get into some serious mud, you'll have belt slip issues. 'Creepycrawler' came up with a killer idler setup to put more tension and wrap on the trans pulley and it makes the clutch as smoothe as most cars. Drill small holes in trans pulley to relieve trapped water/mud, and no smaller than 4.5-5" pulley. Also run a 1/2" belt. Yes. Much smoother action. Take a peek at the youtube vids, Creepycrawler and Giverthebeans97 are both strong Wheel Horse guys and post up lots of modification vids. I am 'Captain 315' but dont have a ton of stuff up yet. 2 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,905 #42 Posted December 20, 2021 @Greentored I don’t care who says what, that’s an awesome picture! Ride hard, ride safe (?) and have fun! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,214 #43 Posted December 21, 2021 20 hours ago, Pullstart said: @Greentored I don’t care who says what, that’s an awesome picture! Ride hard, ride safe (?) and have fun! Thanks buddy! That was on the obstacle course at the Top Tractor Challenge. Having SO much fun on this thing, and absolutely zero issues. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites