Need some guidance working with roller chain

[Navig8r 132]

Hi.... Looking to add #40 roller chain to the fronts on my 416-H for snow season....While I have worked with most things construction and mechanical in my life, chain is new territory for my.... Not sure how that took this many years.... but anyways.....

Looking at possibly a low cost kit including a simple breaker and holder.... Do I need them?  Thoughts?    Budget is a concern... I don't like to buy cheap tools, but can't justify a bigger purchase than necessary right now for a single purpose that will see little use.

 

I see connecting links, and offset links.... ???  What do I want?  What is the difference?  

 

Anyone can help this chain-newbie out, I'd appreciate the guidance!

 

Thank you!!!

[ri702bill 8,967]

Hello:

I personally have not run chain on my front tires, just AG tires with tubes, filled with winter windsheld washer juice and homemade 25 lb weights - works well and does not mark the driveway - the rears do enough of that.

I recently added a counterweight to my milling machine - bought 10 feet of #40 chain, needed 2 42" lengths and used a cutoff wheel to grind the heads on both sides of the pin I wanted to remove. (the chain I bought came with 2 Master links in the box - I used them to attach the chain to the head)

Lay it on a block of wood and used a 1/8" straight punch and 2 lb hammer.

Connector links come in many varieties - "Master Links" can have either a hairpin clip or the pin could be drilled for small (tiny) cotter pins. Roller chain uses alternating inner and outer links - the master link is a connection that replaces the outer to join 2 inners. Offset is a mutant - it joins an inner to an outer.

@ebinmaine has done what you are trying to do, I believe. The key is to deflate the tire to find your true circumference and then decide how to cut the chain and which style link you really need. Install the chain and reinflate the tire to seat the chain.

Edited November 27, 2021 by ri702bill

[ebinmaine 70,718]

56 minutes ago, Navig8r said:

Anyone can help this chain-newbie out, I'd appreciate the guidance!

 

32 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

The key is to deflate the tire to find your true circumference and then decide how to cut the chain and which style link you really need. Install the chain and reinflate the tire to seat the chain

 

Bill pretty much nailed what I did.  

 

33 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Connector links come in many varieties - "Master Links" can have either a hairpin clip or the pin could be drilled for small (tiny) cotter pins. Roller chain uses alternating inner and outer links - the master link is a connection that replaces the outer to join 2 inners. Offset is a mutant - it joins an inner to an outer

 

I bought my chain in the above mentioned 10' length. 

I used regular master links with exterior hairpin connection. 

 

I'll add that I did try the grind/board/punch method and had little success. 

I bought a cheap chain breaker and followed direction from a video on YT for proper tool usage.  

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,243]

It won't matter joining chain on tires but a drive chain should have the rounded end of the retaining clip facing the direction of travel. If the open end faces forward it is possible for a foreign object like a stone to push the clip off. The drive chain on a snowthrower is a good example.

[ebinmaine 70,718]

1 hour ago, ri702bill said:

deflate the tire to find your true circumference and then decide how to cut the chain

 

One thing I wanted to mention here is, with the tires deflated, I measured the ACTUAL circumference and then SUBTRACTED an inch or two. I had to experiment with that multiple times because they kept slipping off.

 

 

[wallfish 17,487]

No special chain tools are required if you have a grinder and a small flat head screwdriver.

Just grind off 2 studs of a chain link and the link will split with a screw driver. just pry it apart. The more you do the easier it gets.

Connecting link --- AKA master link is all you need for doing the tires

Off set links AKA 1/2 links are for stubborn instances when you need a tighter/looser chain loop and the sprocket locations aren't adjustable.

They're cheap so buy a bag with the chain and you will see how they work.

When looping them on the front tires, deflate and get them tight before airing up. They need to be tight or they'll walk off the tires.

[Roger R 458]

When installing pull the ends together with a needle nose (angle tip if you have one) while slipping the master link in place.  Off set is unnecessary for this application.

[Navig8r 132]

Thanks for the info everyone, lots of help, and I appreciate it!  

So, is the snowthrower (single stage, short chute) chain #40?  Thinking maybe I should replace it, and use the old for tires.... Or at least replace it when buying new anyways for tires.

[ri702bill 8,967]

My early 32" single stage  snowthrower uses #41 roller chain - same 1/2" pitch as #40, but it is not as wide. Most idler sprockets for that series are actually #41 style and will work for both.

Bill

[peter lena 9,087]

@Navig8r that blower chain is usually a very neglected area , proper adjustment , should be in the 1/2" area at center of widest unsupported chain run, critical is the lubrication used on the chain to gear drive , never let mine dry out  !  lubriplate makes a specific open gear and chain aerosol lubricant , that will make things live on . #40 chain and breaker , half links , always in stock , pete

[Navig8r 132]

27 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Navig8r that blower chain is usually a very neglected area , proper adjustment , should be in the 1/2" area at center of widest unsupported chain run, critical is the lubrication used on the chain to gear drive , never let mine dry out  !  lubriplate makes a specific open gear and chain aerosol lubricant , that will make things live on . #40 chain and breaker , half links , always in stock , pete

Yeah.. Thinking I'm on borrowed time, as I got the blower, well used, a couple years ago... I've run it for probably 5-6 hours... always lubing liberally with spray chain lube.... But it had been sitting before I got it for an unknown period of time.  Thank you for the info on the adjustment... I hadn't found a spec, and have been going with 'very snug' LOL.... but I've probably been close to or in that 1/2"

 

[ri702bill 8,967]

And..... a NEW chain will stretch as it seats into the sprockets, and it happens quickly - had to readjust mine after just 5 minutes of use, then good for the season.

Bill