WheelHorse314-8 58 #26 Posted November 27, 2021 Now i have to figure out why the lights don’t work but the guage lights stay on all the time. lol 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,502 #28 Posted November 27, 2021 7 minutes ago, WheelHorse314-8 said: lights Study up on the schematic diagram for that rig. There's a fair amount of wiring in there but it can be narrowed down bit by bit. Excellent looking tractor there!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,275 #29 Posted November 27, 2021 MINT! You are going to enjoy it! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #30 Posted November 27, 2021 3 hours ago, WheelHorse314-8 said: purchased EXCELLENT! Good luck with it! You'll love it for sure. Say... how much ya want for those wheel covers? You know, right there is at LEAST 20% of what you paid for the whole machine? 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #31 Posted November 27, 2021 1 minute ago, Jeff-C175 said: EXCELLENT! Good luck with it! You'll love it for sure. Say... how much ya want for those wheel covers? You know, right there is at LEAST 20% of what you paid for the whole machine? I agree. AND that is one heck of a good looking machine!!! Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse314-8 58 #32 Posted November 27, 2021 Yeah i was thinking that. lol. I didn’t need another mower but for that price and the condition it’s in i couldn’t pass it up. He even has all the paperwork and keys with it! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #33 Posted November 27, 2021 1 minute ago, WheelHorse314-8 said: all the paperwork and keys OMIGAWD! Provenance too! You can't beat that with a stick! If you need help with wiring and such, be sure to ask before cutting and splicing any wires... please! There's plenty of guys on here that know your machine inside and out, AND all the electron paths too! Many times it's just a matter of corrosion on the fuse blades that needs cleaning up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,306 #34 Posted November 27, 2021 35 minutes ago, WheelHorse314-8 said: Now i have to figure out why the lights don’t work but the guage lights stay on all the time. lol It is normal for the gauge lights to be on at all times with the key on. Now what other lights are not working? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse314-8 58 #35 Posted November 27, 2021 1 minute ago, lynnmor said: It is normal for the gauge lights to be on at all times with the key on. Now what other lights are not working? Headlights and rear lights the guage lights stay on ALL the time?!? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #36 Posted November 28, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, WheelHorse314-8 said: Headlights and rear lights the guage lights stay on ALL the time?!? You'll find the details in one of those amazingly preserved manuals, but here is the Cliff notes version of the factory wiring: Gauge lights - always on when ignition is in Run position (why? beats me!) Message lights - all illuminate when switching from Off to Run (so you can see that they all work!) and then all go out once the key goes to Start or back to Run (unless, of course, one of the message conditions exists, like the parking brake is on, the PTO lever is engaged, etc.). Head/tail lights - only when switched on Edited November 28, 2021 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse314-8 58 #37 Posted November 28, 2021 Maybe the headlight switch is bad. Guess i will have to do some testing 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,306 #38 Posted November 28, 2021 1 minute ago, WheelHorse314-8 said: Maybe the headlight switch is bad. Guess i will have to do some testing Hopefully you downloaded the Owners Manual with the wiring diagram and the Demystification Guide. These will help you considerably. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,306 #39 Posted November 28, 2021 It appears that the previous owner did some work on the fuse block, normally the heaviest fuse is in the rear and they get lower in value towards the front and the front hole is empty. Those fuse blocks are troublesome but they can be replaced cheaply with a Dorman product. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #40 Posted November 28, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, WheelHorse314-8 said: Maybe the headlight switch is bad. Guess i will have to do some testing When I was trying to straighten out a few issues I had with my “ New to Me” 1994 520H, my headlights did not work either… Check all terminals and clean with sandpaper ( on the whole tractor) reassemble with dielectric grease coating all terminal ends and spades. Now as for my lights not working… I took out my headlight switch, cleaned it well, sprayed WD-40 in and on it, clicked the switch on and off 10-15 times and it has worked ever since. I have been told on here that the headlight switch is a common one and you may be able to find it at an auto parts store. Take my advice and before you mess with something you are unsure about, get on here and ask questions. I do it with my Wheel Horses and I KNOW it has saved me a lot of grief and time… and taught me a lot ! Edited November 28, 2021 by Horse Newbie 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,433 #41 Posted November 28, 2021 You got a fantastic deal from an owner that takes good care of his tools. Give it the once over, change the fluids and GO! Oh, yes, that light switch can be funky. I have to switch mine off an on several times before it complies. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #42 Posted November 29, 2021 Yeah that's one of those "shut up and take my money" things. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #43 Posted November 29, 2021 On 11/28/2021 at 7:20 AM, Tuneup said: I have to switch mine off an on several times before it complies. Me too.@lynnmor had a good point, that demystification guide is key to figuring out problems. I studied the wiring diagram maybe 3 nights a week and tried stuff on the weekend and misunderstood the way the seat switch worked for about 3 months until my dad came in and showed me that I didn’t know squat. Moral of the story, the demystification guide is helpful to narrow down one single problem. The wiring diagram is good just for a basic understanding of what does what. Just my two cents though. Andrew 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse314-8 58 #44 Posted December 1, 2021 Got my lights working. We took the switch apart and a spider had built a web inside it. Cleaned the web out, put it back together, and it works like a top! Next issue. I’ve noticed going down the mower goes faster Abe going up hill the mower goes slower. Is that normal or can i adjust the hydro transmission somehow? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,306 #45 Posted December 1, 2021 7 minutes ago, WheelHorse314-8 said: Next issue. I’ve noticed going down the mower goes faster Abe going up hill the mower goes slower. Is that normal or can i adjust the hydro transmission somehow? It is normal for a quick pick up in speed as you start down, but it should the begin to hold back to some degree. There is no adjustment besides the linkage to the cam plate and brake. You can check your hydro by pushing against a solid object and it should spin the tires if the pressure is good. I have a sharp slope that I ease into, then the tractor drifts ahead followed by draging the rear tires causing turf damage, I never found a way to get around that. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #46 Posted December 1, 2021 Don't know how steep a hill you are talking about, but yes when the goin' is easy, it'll speed up. You have checked to be sure the oil level is correct, right? (dipstick under the seat) Only adjustment I know of is to pull back or push forward on the motion lever () 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #47 Posted December 1, 2021 Check that 9 pin electrical Molex connector between the engine and the tractor. At least one of the wire plugs/ sockets may be burned. Usually it’s the charging circuit I believe as that is the 30 amp circuit- gets hot when dirty and/ or corroded. Some on here believe that the wires could have been larger gauge from factory… If two of the connections are burnt, then the other one will probably be start circuit. On my 1994 520H I bypassed the Molex connector with these two wires and used bullet connectors with heat shrink wrap. I also replaced my fuse block with a new one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse314-8 58 #48 Posted December 2, 2021 I read where the hydro trans holds 5qts off 10w30. Is that right? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #49 Posted December 2, 2021 47 minutes ago, WheelHorse314-8 said: I read where the hydro trans holds 5qts off 10w30. Is that right? I think you can use 10w-30 or 10w-40… opinions differ. I would check the specs. When you do put the oil in , don’t just automatically dump 5 qts in. You may overfill. I would add a little at a time, and it does go in slow… Add a small amount and check, add a little and check. When the dipstick reads full drive the tractor around a bit and work the hydraulic lift up and down some times. Forward and reverse… Then go back and check the oil level again to see if it remains full. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #50 Posted December 2, 2021 1 hour ago, WheelHorse314-8 said: I read where the hydro trans holds 5qts off 10w30. Is that right? Important to realize that when you drain the transaxle, not all of the oil will come out. Some stays in the hydro pump, some stays in the hoses and cylinder for the lift, some is in the filter. The above advice about adding slowly and then checking is the way to go! I've never been able to put more than a bit over 4 quarts in. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites