Jump to content
Jeff-C175

More C-125 / K301 questions with photos...

Recommended Posts

Snoopy11
7 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Points were already at 0.018 .  Set them to 16 didn't seem right, kinda 'sluggish'... but noise was the same.

 

Set them to 20, noise the same.  At 0.020, the timing mark was exactly 'on'.

 

Advanced to 0.022 ... no difference.

 

Set them back to 0.020

 

I'mma go out on 1 foot limb here...

 

If it was something detrimental (other than balance gears), you would have noticed a difference in adjusting timing.

 

My experience, in my opinion. :D

 

Don

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
2 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

I'mma go out on 1 foot limb here...

 

You got your harness and safety rope tied off?

 

Yeah... I wasn't really surprised that ignition timing didn't affect it.

 

So... back to square one.  If I need to use the plow this winter, I'm just gonna go ahead and do it and not worry about the engine.  Maybe in the Spring when the wx starts to warm up again I'll think about lifting the engine and taking out the balance gears.  And if it blows up while plowing... well, that's life in the big city.

 

So tomorrow maybe I'll have some time to get to the fuel pump.  I do have to finish installing those LED shop lights though so maybe I'll do that instead.

 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Snoopy11
3 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

if it blows up while plowing

I don't think it will. ...I ain't no fortune teller... but from what I have seen and read, it is pretty normal... :rolleyes:

 

Don

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Snoopy11
15 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

You got your harness and safety rope tied off?

And safety glasses... :laughing-rolling:

 

Don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

Jeff, this ended up being bad balance gears and a broken piston skirt. Yours sounds worse: 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor
2 minutes ago, squonk said:

Jeff, this ended up being bad balance gears and a broken piston skirt. Yours sounds worse: 

 

 

:scared-eek:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tractorbeast
20 hours ago, rjg854 said:

Do you have a lift assist spring for your blade?

 

I have no lift assist spring on the blade assembly or on the tractor that i can find. I looked it over pretty good today. Could I be missing a spring?.

I looked at Jacks Small Engine diagram of lift assemble- no assist spring.

Edited by tractorbeast

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Snoopy11
3 hours ago, squonk said:

Jeff, this ended up being bad balance gears and a broken piston skirt. Yours sounds worse:

That would render metal flakes... chunks... in the oil... wouldn't you agree? :scratchead:

 

Don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
7 hours ago, squonk said:

Yours sounds worse:

 

I dunno... it's really hard to hear stuff in a recording, but not sure it's 'worse', but 'different' for sure.

 

4 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

wouldn't you agree?

 

Yes, I would!  I even dug 40 years of 'crud' out of the pipe cap on the drain tube out the bottom and there were a few very small pieces, but nothing that concerned me much.

 

 

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175

image.png.967447df7181ef5422db2122d4627c64.png

 

7 hours ago, tractorbeast said:

I have no lift assist spring on the blade assembly or on the tractor that i can find. I looked it over pretty good today. Could I be missing a spring?.

I looked at Jacks Small Engine diagram of lift assemble- no assist spring.

 

I'm not sure I understand how this got into this thread?  Wasn't this a quote from another thread?

 

@tractorbeast rjg854 was mistaken... he thought you were talking about a SNOW BLOWER attachment, which does have an optional lift assist spring, not a PLOW BLADE, which does NOT have an optional spring.  The problem with adding a lift assist spring to the plow blade is that it would LIGHTEN the blade.  Too light and the blade can ride up on top of the snow.  I'm sure that you could add a spring but it can't be such that it lightens the blade too much.

 

But, we weren't discussing that here... I think you might have got your threads mixed up somehow?  

Your original thread is here:

 

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175

I wonder if it's possible for the ACR mechanism to get noisy ?

 

image.png.bae7a56ebeca0d7b7519322c78b61ec0.png

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor

I have read that it is possible for valve seats to become lose and noisy. They don't come out, but rather move up and down slightly,  creating a chatter. There are just too many possibilities to speculate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don
6 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I wonder if it's possible for the ACR mechanism to get noisy ?

 

image.png.bae7a56ebeca0d7b7519322c78b61ec0.png

 

 

If any part of the ACR were rattling, I'd suspect the exhaust "lifter" sleeve that rotates around the shaft under control of the flyweights. If that were loose on the shaft, it'd shift around as the camshaft turned as the valve stem alternately was pressed and released. The weights themselves, once the engine is turning beyond 100 RPMs, should be pretty firmly thrown outward against their stops. 

Edited by Handy Don
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
peter lena

@Jeff-C175 , that heat shrink area , is a perfect spot for electrical lug , to clean up secure and move on from ,  have cut off similar  ugly , and made it a solid mount , ground point . also hiding in plain sight , was the opportunity with your back of dash battery area totally exposed , did you tighten up the end / starting  pull point on your  PTO LEVER ?  its right there , under battery ground rail , mine typically took  3/8 " or more of washers and lube to eliminate the lever slop . makes the lever a smoother  stronger starting point , pto function start is better , just an idea, pete 

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
6 hours ago, Gregor said:

too many possibilities to speculate.

 

Never!  How else would one discover stuff? ;)

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor
13 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Never!  How else would one discover stuff? ;)

Ya  gotta turn that big piece into a whole bunch of little pieces. :banana-wrench:

20201212_105953.jpg.78b7754ced617b38577ff7f923531ab1.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Snoopy11
2 hours ago, Gregor said:

Ya  gotta turn that big piece into a whole bunch of little pieces. :banana-wrench:

Been there, done that... :rolleyes:

 

Don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Snoopy11

Let me ask you this, Jeff, just for... fat folds and giggles. What type/weight oil are you using? :scratchead:

 

Don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
4 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

Been there, done that..

 

Both intentional and non-intentional I'm sure!  :ychain:

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
4 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

Let me ask you this, Jeff, just for... fat folds and giggles. What type/weight oil are you using? :scratchead:

 

Don

 

I use Rotella T1 straight 30W with 1 Oz of ZDDP per quart.  For. Like. Ever.

 

  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Snoopy11
Just now, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I use Rotella T1 straight 30W with 1 Oz of ZDDP per quart.  For. Like. Ever.

 

:music-rockout:

 

Don

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175

I do NOT RECOMMEND this kit !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  (emphasisss added ! )

 

On 11/30/2021 at 1:55 AM, Jeff-C175 said:

Looking around for the fuel pump kit I happened upon this :

 

image.png.ae8b21e2a937949e415c2293f399b86d.png

image.png.565e183373e1e63a07180aeb718a7478.png

 

I know the circled parts are for the fuel pump, but what about all those other doo-dads?  They look more like carburetor parts to me?

 

Is this a kit for the fuel pump AND the carburetor?

 

 

image.png.21a38840d9271449b1b7a609b9dfe4f7.png

 

The holes in the die-a-fraggem were TOO FAR OUT (man) !  It did NOT FIT !

 

ALSO... the " T " on the end of the shaft was TOO WIDE !  ( about 0.030" )

 

@Snoopy11  I was going to do a set of pics, but honestly, this is so simple that I didn't think it was warranted !

If one had the carb off for cleaning, it could even be done without unbolting the fuel pump from the engine, if the gasket wasn't weeping like mine was.

 

So now I gotta see what Amazon wants to do with this.  I bet they won't want it back and will just refund me.

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Snoopy11

I know that one particular guy (I won't name names...) would tell you that he bought and used this kit and it worked out just fine. :liar: :rolleyes:

 

A kit that comes with more than it says... is probably not worth your time. 

 

I think that you would be better off with this kit: https://isavetractors.com/fuel-pump-diaphragm-kit-for-kohler-k-m-series-metal-body-mechanical-fuel-pumps/?gclid=CjwKCAiAtdGNBhAmEiwAWxGcUnV607l6nb98WlTZpKY6oeBvZCO_zcoq_CxFCO3I7fCCeI0YMda6NxoCt7gQAvD_BwE

 

Don

  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
10 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

he bought and used this kit and it worked out just fine

 

So either I got a diaphragm for a different pump, or Kohler used two different pumps.

 

All four corner holes were too far apart by about a quarter inch or so.  If my Whitney punch were sharper I would try repunching it, looks like it could be done easily.  And grind a tad off each end of the tee.

 

But let's see what AhMazoney wants to do.

 

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi
6 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

So either I got a diaphragm for a different pump, or Kohler used two different pumps.

 

All four corner holes were too far apart by about a quarter inch or so.  If my Whitney punch were sharper I would try repunching it, looks like it could be done easily.  And grind a tad off each end of the tee.

 

But let's see what AhMazoney wants to do.

 

 Electric Facet posiflo stop wasting time and money

  • Excellent 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • BrianKoch
      By BrianKoch
      Gentlemen,
       
      I am in need of help. While doing yard work with my K301 powered ‘68 Charger 12 it suddenly came to a stop and won’t start again. 

      My troubleshooting so far: 
       
      Fuel:
      • stabil/87 and clean
      • good flow before and after pump
      • carb clean, recently rebuilt, float level correctly set 
       
      Compression:
      •good? - blows finger off spark plug hole
      •good turnover but doesn’t fire off
      •piston and cylinders move freely
      •valve lash set .008 intake .018 exhaust
      •breather assembly correct and recently serviced with new gaskets and filter
      •head gasket not broken, head bolts tight, some carbon on head
       
      Spark:
      •no spark
      •all electrical/ignition components were replaced 1 year ago except voltage regulator
      •no loose connections, no grounding connections
      •inspected and applied graphite to starter shaft
      •changed plug
      •12v to coil good
      •cleaned points, points wire has continuity
      •condenser ground good
      •swapped battery, points and wire, plug and wire, coil, and condenser from running K301 (‘69 Charger 12)
      •points push rod does push out when turning engine over by hand, but unable to get points timed using multimeter method and timing mark on flywheel
       
      What else should I check/do?

       
    • Tuneup
      By Tuneup
      Hi all,
      Summary: Solid mounts a year ago were very nice. Removed balance gears last December. Unacceptable. Installed eBay originals in good condition. I can ride it again at full throttle AND keep my fillings.
       
      Long story (I have the day off):
      A thread inspired me last December to look and see if my balance gears were doing well and the rear one was a wobbler. Removed them. She was burning too much oil - original rebuild was just a stone hone and power was not as it should be - it took months to get it bored .020. Hard to find in GA. Installed everything and started her up. Solid mounts USED to be great! That old off-idle vibration that shook the hood was gone thanks to those mounts. A little more vibration was OK. After the removal of the balance gears - NOT! The thing makes my butt numb and I can't mow at higher than about 2500 RPM. The hood vibrates just too much.
      Decided to shop Flea Bay for some used, but OK, mounts. Toro prices are . . . the usual Toro prices. Mine were shot and tossed in the bin. Easily installed, right?
       
      I thought in my ignorance that I could just remove a solid mount one at a time and pop-in the originals. Heck, the mount rubber has to be pressed in! Who knew? My old ones weren't like this at the restoration years ago.
       
      Delayed while I figured how to pull the engine on my own. I used to just throw it up on the bench but I've grown more cautious. No buds around in the AM for assistance. Tied some 10 gauge wire around a 2x3. Put one end on the table saw and lifting was easy. Still have to lift the weight but no bending and it was going on the floor. Dead lift at knee level. Pulled the 2x3 across the table to extend the engine to the side of the tractor and let her down slowly.
       

       
      Engine bay still pretty clean and the engine oil was due for its 1 hour drop after the rebuild anyway. Looked fine.
       

       
      How to get those mounts in? Tried a C clamp and a socket as a spacer - too clumsy. Greased them up nicely and got longer bolts - tightening them a bit at a time and nudging the mounts into the hole with a blunt object. Turned out not to be a bother!
       

       

       
      I've learned not to throw things away. It always seems that you need something the day after it's in the garbage truck. I still had the grounding lead and the large mount washers.
       
      The wife assisted in the re-installation. Kinda' freaked her out. Back in place, and I got to clean the lower engine area from that minor oil leak around the fuel pump. Attracted grass clippings like a magnet.
       

       

       
      A few bulb squeezes to start her up and, glorious! No more teeth chattering and I can take her up to 3600 if I like - sounds wonderful and she tore through the deep, deep crab grass. Don't discount those mounts. Sure, that off idle vibration is back and stronger than before. Nothing like a fresh bore for power. Something to spend time on tomorrow.
       
      Now, what to do with these?
       

       
       
    • Jeff-C175
    • HorsePower58
      By HorsePower58
    • HorsePower58
      By HorsePower58
×
×
  • Create New...