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jtrosp1980

1970 engine help

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jtrosp1980

 I was able to swing by the house last weekend with a load lets just say it wasn't a good weekend I attempted to put a head gasket on and broke a headbolt in the block tried to drill it out with no success which in return called a few shops they are telling me the block is junk now what would be my best option at this point 

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SylvanLakeWH

Have you tried an easyout bolt extractor?

 

They work pretty well…

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

easyout

 

With the right nice sharp center punch and the right drill for the right size easy out you'll likely fix it yourself. 

 

With lots of heat in some situations too. 

 

 

A lot of modern repair shops don't want to work on non modern engines anymore.

 

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jtrosp1980

Yes tried that then I drilled hole size for 7/16 not 1/2

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jtrosp1980

Looking up parts for this tecumseh has been a nightmare wondering would a k241 go on without alot of modifications 

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bc.gold

Use a drill bushing to keep ya centered, now with the possibility your hole is off center it's still possible to remove the broken bolt but you'll need several bushings.

 

Your first bushing needed will accept a small drill bit just large enough the catch the side of the hole already drilled, then work up to the next size.

 

If you drilled into the threaded engine block once the bolt has been removed you can install a threaded insert, video below.

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jtrosp1980

I will look into it

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oliver2-44

@bc.gold Are you suggesting to make a steel plate that could be clamped to the block, Then to hold Festus it to hold one drill bushing at a time to gradually get recentered to drill the bolt out

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bc.gold
6 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

@bc.gold Are you suggesting to make a steel plate that could be clamped to the block, Then to hold Festus it to hold one drill bushing at a time to gradually get recentered to drill the bolt out

 

He already has a guide plate, reinstall the cylinder head then install the drill bushing.

 

The shop told him the engine was junk, from previous smutt jobs they learned customers often abandoned their property when handed the bill for labor.

 

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Achto

 

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

With the right nice sharp center punch and the right drill for the right size easy out you'll likely fix it yourself. 

 

With lots of heat in some situations too. 

 

Never combine heat and an "easy out", less you wish to buy a new "easy out". Tried this with a few different brands of "easy outs" (Snap On, Matco, DeWalt, Harbor Freight, square shape, spiral shape) wrecked every one of them.

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ebinmaine
7 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

 

Never combine heat and an "easy out", less you wish to buy a new "easy out". Tried this with a few different brands of "easy outs" (Snap On, Matco, DeWalt, Harbor Freight, square shape, spiral shape) wrecked every one of them.

 

Take the temper out of the metal does it?

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Snoopy11

I've got a bad word for those shops.

 

Do you have access to a mig welding machine per chance?

 

Don

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Snoopy11

I use this method... but I have a welding machine. I know that @TJ salyers had a similar issue, but as I recall, he does not have a mig... :unsure:

 

You take a wrench, preferably and old one that you don't like very much... and weld through the wrench, filling the interior of the round end. Then... you simply turn out the bolt...

 

Don

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Snoopy11

BTW... if you use a chromly wrench... ordinarily... the welding rod will not bond to the wrench. Additionally, you really want to pull back on your welding gun... holding it approximately an 3/4 to an inch or more from the bolt... so the rod builds up inside the wrench opening...

 

Don

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Herder

I've used a wrench to hold a nut in place over the broken bolt and filled in the nut with the mig welder.  Allow it to cool enough to strengthen and turn it out.  Most times it works on the first attempt.  Yes, I have had some that I needed to repeat more than once in order to get the broken bolt extracted.  Cover the cylinder bore to avoid getting slag into it.      

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Snoopy11
22 hours ago, Herder said:

I've used a wrench to hold a nut in place over the broken bolt and filled in the nut with the mig welder.  Allow it to cool enough to strengthen and turn it out.  Most times it works on the first attempt.  Yes, I have had some that I needed to repeat more than once in order to get the broken bolt extracted.  Cover the cylinder bore to avoid getting slag into it.      

:banana-rock:

 

Don

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jtrosp1980

Some progress got motor to run got some electrical done

IMG_1058.jpg

IMG_1059.jpg

IMG_1060.jpg

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ebinmaine

Just looking at the pics. 

Thread title is 1970. That's a 68 or 69 by the hood. 

Is the engine a '70 or have you checked the tractor numbers?

 

Good to see the progress.  

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Handy Don
On 11/18/2021 at 2:33 PM, Herder said:

I've used a wrench to hold a nut in place over the broken bolt and filled in the nut with the mig welder.  Allow it to cool enough to strengthen and turn it out.  Most times it works on the first attempt.  Yes, I have had some that I needed to repeat more than once in order to get the broken bolt extracted.  Cover the cylinder bore to avoid getting slag into it.      

Neat trick. Course the intense heat/cool of the bolt may assist with the removal, too.

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