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Mustang67ford

414-8 hood hinge brackets hole oblong

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Mustang67ford

Working on my hood.  Is the hole in the hinge brackets supposed to be oblong or have any play in them where the hing pin goes thru?  Or should I weld it up and redrill?  Will be getting a new pin also.

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Red Horse

You can weld them and re-drill or drill a larger hold and rebush.

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Mustang67ford
6 minutes ago, Red Horse said:

You can weld them and re-drill or drill a larger hold and rebush.

My plan is to weld and redrill, but I am trying to find out if the hole, when new, was somewhat oblong to begin with or was it round just to fit the pin with no play?  Dont want to weld and redrill if it was somewhat oblong from the factory.

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CCW

This my thread with the same problem.  It is all fixed.

 

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squonk

Dodge truck door pin bushings work. Napa 6751246

 

1478311

Edited by squonk
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stevasaurus

Why would the factory drill an oblong hole??  I don't think so.  :eusa-think:

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lynnmor

No, the holes were round.  There was a nylon bushing in the hole that prevented wear but after it fails the pin and holes wear rapidly.  I don't know current pricing or availability, but it wasn't too bad a few years ago when I replaced all the parts.  It wasn't worth my while to weld and machine holes.

 

I see that Wheel Horse Parts & More has the hinge kit for about $10 under list price.

Edited by lynnmor
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squonk

Pop the Dodge bushings into the oblong holes, a new rod from Tractor Supply. Cut rod to length and drill holes in the ends for Cotter pins

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Mustang67ford
1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

No, the holes were round.  There was a nylon bushing in the hole that prevented wear but after it fails the pin and holes wear rapidly.  I don't know current pricing or availability, but it wasn't too bad a few years ago when I replaced all the parts.  It wasn't worth my while to weld and machine holes.

 

I see that Wheel Horse Parts & More has the hinge kit for about $10 under list price.

Didnt see the kit on the website, but will this fit a 414?  Looks to be for a 520 maybe.

 https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/116745-116746-116747-5979-hood-hinge-assembly-for-wheel-horse/

Edited by Mustang67ford
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Mustang67ford
1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

No, the holes were round.  There was a nylon bushing in the hole that prevented wear but after it fails the pin and holes wear rapidly.  I don't know current pricing or availability, but it wasn't too bad a few years ago when I replaced all the parts.  It wasn't worth my while to weld and machine holes.

 

I see that Wheel Horse Parts & More has the hinge kit for about $10 under list price.

I did not see any plastic bushings listed under the parts breakdown.  Makes me think it was metal to metal.

Edited by Mustang67ford
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lynnmor
25 minutes ago, Mustang67ford said:

I did not see any plastic bushings listed under the parts breakdown.  Makes me think it was metal to metal.

If you go to the Toro website and look up the parts, you may see the Nyliner  or you may not.  I am not sure if the parts shown are correct.  For example, the 520H shows Nyliner on later models, but I know for a fact that they were used in some years where the parts list doesn't show them.

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Mustang67ford
12 hours ago, lynnmor said:

If you go to the Toro website and look up the parts, you may see the Nyliner  or you may not.  I am not sure if the parts shown are correct.  For example, the 520H shows Nyliner on later models, but I know for a fact that they were used in some years where the parts list doesn't show them.

I was looking on the toro parts website

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Mustang67ford
15 hours ago, CCW said:

This my thread with the same problem.  It is all fixed.

 

I read your post.  Not sure I understand.  Sounds like your bracket is riding on the bolt threads and the bolt cant be super tight or the hood wont open allowing for slop?  

Edited by Mustang67ford
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squonk

What did I do to my WH Today? WANTED to repair the hood hinge on my C-160. Managed to accomplish it but not without a RANT! :ranting: I knew I wanted to use bushings as the hinges on the hood were knackered. Drilled those out.. Had a couple bushings in the drawer but I would have to cut them down. I decided to hit up some local stores to see If I could find any shorter. All the stores with the nice little drawer thingy's. All of them out of the size I wanted. All of them have been out of them for a long time. all of them the drawers are all mixed up so they have no idea what they are out of. All of them will be in the same condition in 6 month's

 

Went to Napa and bought a 675-1246 Dodge door pin and bushing kit for 8 bucks. It has 2 bushings the right size. 2 bushings too small so they go in the drawer. 2 e clips for the drawer and 2 pins for the scrap bucket. 5 stores until I got what I needed.

 

Went to install the new stainless hood pin I got from a member here. He cut the grooves for the clips wrong so I had to use the old pin that wasn't too far knackered

 

h2.jpg.0ebd80fdf3fc2a3cf9119d9d39e00e9b.jpg

 

 

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peter lena

@Mustang67ford  this is simple , go to local hardware store and pick up some bronze bushings , and refit . small drawer pull out section , use a chassis lubricant on that movement point , would also use a washer tension bolt set up with elastic nut  to control movement area . pete

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cleat

This is how I have some of mine rebuilt.

I drilled the hood brackets and the front hitch to 1/2" then made up a new pin.

I also made up a new hood stop pin with a 2 piece design to move the cotter pin in to the center where the hood does not contact it.

 

1102370584_Fronthitchrebuilt1.jpg.7c7edc10b0ad43d6fe040db80ce724fb.jpg

1363677725_Fronthitchrebuilt2.jpg.e175e757ec942f435ae33d18ec8e69a5.jpg

1611960847_Fronthitchrebuilt3.jpg.660a9c0353c515a7ab2582084b6202ee.jpg

289645231_Fronthitchrebuilt4.jpg.fdb4f680d52d0e6bfc0098e184160260.jpg

708661455_Fronthitchrebuilt5.jpg.e4066c1e8fa3a6f0b8fd0c29d3665c70.jpg

 

Here are the plans for the pins.

 

Oversize hood pivot pin.pdf

 

Wheel Horse hood stop pin.pdf

 

 

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, cleat said:

This is how I have some of mine rebuilt.

I drilled the hood brackets and the front hitch to 1/2" then made up a new pin.

I also made up a new hood stop pin with a 2 piece design to move the cotter pin in to the center where the hood does not contact it.

So you gave up having an easy way to remove the hood, right? Either dig deep to get to one of the cotters or undo all the hood-to-hinge bolts?

Edited by Handy Don

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Mustang67ford
3 hours ago, cleat said:

This is how I have some of mine rebuilt.

I drilled the hood brackets and the front hitch to 1/2" then made up a new pin.

I also made up a new hood stop pin with a 2 piece design to move the cotter pin in to the center where the hood does not contact it.

 

1102370584_Fronthitchrebuilt1.jpg.7c7edc10b0ad43d6fe040db80ce724fb.jpg

1363677725_Fronthitchrebuilt2.jpg.e175e757ec942f435ae33d18ec8e69a5.jpg

1611960847_Fronthitchrebuilt3.jpg.660a9c0353c515a7ab2582084b6202ee.jpg

289645231_Fronthitchrebuilt4.jpg.fdb4f680d52d0e6bfc0098e184160260.jpg

708661455_Fronthitchrebuilt5.jpg.e4066c1e8fa3a6f0b8fd0c29d3665c70.jpg

 

Here are the plans for the pins.

 

Oversize hood pivot pin.pdf 28.56 kB · 1 download

 

Wheel Horse hood stop pin.pdf 23.19 kB · 1 download

 

 

Nice job.  I'm thinking of doing something similar.  Picked up a 3/8" rod.  Need to get the hood bracket bushings.  I was thinking of using hitch pin clip instead of cotter pins but really how often does the hood need removed.  What paint did you use, that looks nice and shiny?

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cleat

I used IH red implement paint from TSC.

 

The black bits are Rustoleum high temp black.

The shiny bits are all Stainless steel.

The E clips and spring are done in bright galvanizing.

 

I have never needed to remove a hood once the machine is completely restored (yet).

 

I would rather everything be nice and tight to discourage the hood from moving and wearing things.

 

Edited by cleat
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Mustang67ford
21 hours ago, squonk said:

Dodge truck door pin bushings work. Napa 6751246

 

1478311

Got the pin kit on order.  Which bushing do you use, the smooth ones or the ribbed ones and pound in?

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squonk

I think the smooth ones

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kpinnc
On 11/13/2021 at 4:27 PM, stevasaurus said:

Why would the factory drill an oblong hole??

 

Dunno why the factory might do it, but I've certainly drilled a few oblong ones myself... :P

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CCW
On 11/14/2021 at 7:18 AM, Mustang67ford said:

I read your post.  Not sure I understand.  Sounds like your bracket is riding on the bolt threads and the bolt cant be super tight or the hood wont open allowing for slop?  

@Mustang67ford

With my post, as with yours, there are multiple solutions.  I chose to fill in the holes with my welder and drill new holes.  The new bolts and nyloc washers are just snug enough that the hood opens feely and there is no longer any rattle.  I suppose I could have also added some bushings, but I only use the tractor about ten times during the summer and it will take years for the holes to open up again like they were.

 

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Mustang67ford

Got the hood fixed up.  Used a 3/8" rod cut to length, Napa 6751246 bushings with the lip on the outside of the brackets, then a washer with cotter pin theu the shaft on the inside of the brackets.

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