New-to-the-herd checklist?

[ebinmaine 68,554]

The idea for this comes up because I have a new to me '74 C160 that I want to do a full check over and service, then start using it.  

 

 

 

*********

EDIT: The list is at the bottom of this post. 

EDIT #2. See post that contains printable ☑️ check list.   The links are also at the bottom of this post #1.

 

 

I'm fairly sure I've read multiple threads about what you folks do to a tractor as a baseline when it first comes to your possession. 

I've searched some and couldn't find much. 

 

Would you all please take a minute or three and list out what you do to most or all of the new herd members?

 

It would be a great reference for all of us, especially new members or those like me that need a list. 

 

@oliver2-44 You had a nice list. 

 

@Oldskool @AHS @JCM @Stepney @WheelhorseBob @Chestnut @Bens vintage tractors @Raposo @953 nut @squonk @AMC RULES @Handy Don @formariz

 

@Sparky @stevasaurus @wallfish@peter lena @Pullstart @Achto @WHX?? 

 

 

Whoever you all think has a good list please do "mention" them as well. 

 

Thanks!!

 

 

HERE'S THE LIST:

 

A#1.  Join Red Square, post pictures and ask questions!

The list is compiled in 4 basic categories at the suggestion of @Handy Don. 
All listed items below are to the credit of individuals in the following posts. 

 

 

1. BEFORE MONEY CHANGES HANDS (i.e. things that might make you regret the purchase)

 

Ask the current owner(s) if there are ANY condition issues or "things they meant to get to". 

Note general cleanliness. A well maintained machine is more valuable.

Is it stored inside or out?

 

Ask if ~NON E~ gas is used. 

 

Look carefully for fuel leaks. 

 

Attempt to turn engine by hand. 

 

Check for hay/straw/debris sticking out of engine tins/covers. 

Look for cracks or metal fatigue. 
All years, check trans to frame connection. 
Early models, look at steering tower base. 
Later models, check under seat frame if possible. 

 

Shake the rear end and observe to see how worn the rear hubs/axle might be.

Check for engine and transmission oil leaks, tire condition, frayed or broken wires. 

 

Check oil and transmission fluid color, level, and smell, for a sense of maintenance history. 

 

Check all steering components. 
Look for broken/loose tie rod ends, pillow block, gear teeth, proper grease. 

 

Check throttle & choke operation. 

 

Check seat for rips tears gaping holes and softness of covering. (Seats are a bit pricey to replace.) 

 

 

Does it run and drive?

If Yes, test manual transmission by driving around in ALL gears including high and low range. 
Test Hydro by driving around enough to get it hot. (15 minutes). 
Strap to tree or something solid and attempt forward motion. Rear wheel(s) should spin on gravel with tractor held in place.
Switch around and repeat for reverse gear.  

Note unusual shakes, rattles, looseness in steering. 

Verify Hour meter operation. If not working true usage and wear may not be obvious. 

 

If Not running, value is much lower because engine and (transmission in particular) become unknowns. 

 

 

 

2. BEFORE TRYING TO START IT (i.e. things that can make a bad thing worse)

 

 

Check condition and quantity of engine oil. 

 

Check condition of wiring especially at pass through points to verify no chafing or short circuits.

 

Verify that transmission is in neutral and park brake engaged or remove drive belt.

 

 

3. ONCE IT RUNS OR SHOWS SIGNS OF LIFE (i.e. things that make it run right and last)

 

CLEAN EVERYTHING. This will help you see what needs to be fixed. Then go from there. 

 

Blow out the engine tins to see if it has been a rodent hotel - if so, remove tins and clean out thoroughly. 

 

Thoroughly clean around hydro if equipped. 

 

Check and adjust brake. If shoe is oily, replace brake shaft seal AND brake shoe. 

 

Check and/or replace drive belt. 

 

Find or make an electrical schematic diagram. 

 

Remove, clean and reinstall ALL electric connections. Remember these are DC systems. Bad ground will cause erratic everything behavior. 
Use dielectric grease. 

Replace battery cables, if original, with modern larger cables. Color code +  -  unless an original look is desired. Move negative cable to engine block. (I use a starter bolt).  
Run extra grounds to individual components or at minimum, to steering tower. 

Check charging status. 

Clean or replace points as needed and check setting. 

Replace spark plug(s). 

Change engine oil (and filter?). 

 

Change transmission fluid (and filter?). Be sure to raise front of tractor as much as safely possible to get fluid past internal center hump of transmission. 
Replace drain plug with magnetic type. 

Replace shift boot. 

Remove, clean, and reinstall fuel tank. 

 

Replace fuel tank outlet valve (which is a filter) and valve grommet (if equipped). 

 

Replace ALL fuel line and filters.

Disassemble the mechanical fuel pump - clean and reassemble with a new diaphragm if needed.(You were changing the fuel lines anyway).

Remove, clean and reinstall carburetor. 

While carb is off remove, clean and reinstall breather. 

Replace air filter. 
 

Tighten ALL nuts and bolts. 

 

Grease/lube ALL Zerk fittings and ALL pivot points. 
Note: The front end must be hanging free to get the grease where it needs to be.

Remove, clean, grease and reinstall PTO and bearing. 

Remove, clean, grease and reinstall front wheel bearings or switch to sealed bearings. 

Remove, clean, reinstall cylinder head. Hand or machine mill to true flat.

Decarbon the chamber. Spin it over to check the condition of the valves and guides.

New head gasket - torque cold. Remember to re-torque after appropriate run time. 

 

4. COSMETICS

 

Everything should already be clean at this point. 

 

Fresh paint or patina is to the preference of the owner. There are several threads containing information about paint preservation. 

 

This link is for Word File

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=319951

 

This link is a PDF.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=319952

 

 

 

 

Search keywords:

Baseline maintenance base line check over checkover restoration new herd member members checklist acquisition mechanical tractor tractors prospective possible purchase 

Edited November 27, 2021 by ebinmaine
Added list. Added more search keywords.

[SylvanLakeWH 26,004]

Flush trans / new oil

New shift cover

Change engine oil

Grease all zerks 

Spray lube/grease all moving parts

Drain fuel system

New fuel line / filter

Check all electric connections 

Dialectic grease connections

Replace needed seals/bearings

 

[Achto 27,829]

1 - Change engine oil

2 - Change transmission oil / filter

3 - New fuel lines & filter

4 - Carburetor kit

5 - Ignition tune up ( spark plug, clean or replace points )

6 - Inspect/repair wiring

7 - Check charging status

8 - Check all steering components

9 - Throttle & choke operation 

10 - Throw a wrench on all the hardware to check tightness.

11 - General inspection - look for cracks or metal fatigue - oil leaks - tire condition - etc.

 

Edited November 10, 2021 by Achto

[squonk 41,474]

First thing I do is a gas leak check. My tractors are inside. Don't want no fumes. 2nd thing I do is the oil change in the engine. Then if it's a keeper replace the battery cables if they look original.

[Pullstart 63,118]

If possible, a few checks before making the deal are crucial.  Check the frame for cracks near the transmission mount, check the front end and steering components for excessive wear, check oil and transmission fluid for a sense of maintenance history.  Shake the rear end and observe to see how worn the rear hubs/axle might be.
 

Once home, it depends if it’s already a runner or not.  If not, I feel like getting the engine running is always the best feeling of accomplishment.  
Start by checking for spark, the. See if it gets fuel or my favorite, remove the air cleaner assembly and cover the carb with your hand and letting the engine prime the carb almost instantly… and unblock any loosely packed pathways.  Unless the oil looks like a milkshake, I’d rather get it running and warmed up before the first oil change.  This assures all possible garbage inside will drain with the oil.

 

Next, evaluate the transmission condition by running through all the gears, or testing the strength of the hydro motor.

 

Grease jobs.  The front end must be hanging free to get the grease where it needs to be.

Edited November 10, 2021 by Pullstart

[pacer 3,174]

@Pullstart's list describes my method almost perfectly!

 

[peter lena 8,782]

@ebinmaine good idea on this issue. agree with others on baseline service , another thing I  look for is the (  verification  of each operational function  )  does that  area work ?  even if it does I  will enhance it , think electrical is the weakest link in these tractors. having replaced much of what i had , the starting and function is solid and reliable . you also have to be curious , to make areas work easier . collectively , what is suggested , will help out a newbie , pete   

[ri702bill 8,546]

Yup - Kevin has a good methodical list.

Three more of mine - 

Blow out the tins to see if it has been a rodent hotel - if so, remove the tins and have at it.

Disassemble the mechanical fuel pump - clean and reassemble with a new diaphragm if needed.(You were changing the fuel lines anyway.)

Pull the head - decarbon the chamber. Spin it over to check the condition of the valves and guides. New head gasket - torque cold and again after 20 minutes or so of run time.

Bill

Edited November 10, 2021 by ri702bill

[Maxwell-8 4,334]

1. check hubs for play
2. check trans bearings
3. change transmission oil (+filter)
4. change engine oil
5. check and replace airfilter
6. check front wheelbearings
7. do a full regrease also the PTO bearing
8. replace fuel lines and fuel filter (check metal fueltanks for rust)
9. check over the complete wiring. If this would chatch fire when in the garage, some fire insurance will not cover that. 
10. check belts
11. check and adjust brake
12. And finnaly I inspect the frame to see If I have no cracks. Where the trannys is mounted or around the seat mount on newer style frames.

Hope this helps Eric,  these are the things I often do based on the couple of horses I have had and the problems I have encountered on them.

and number 9 and 11 You have to be sure these are oké to prevent harm to you and the family.

[Pullstart 63,118]

12 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

check over the complete wiring. If this would chatch fire

What’s the fun in that?  

[Maxwell-8 4,334]

13 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

What’s the fun in that?  

 

Haha, I will ask the previous owner of Amy when the battery exploded! 

And the ACID cleanup I had to deal with  

 

 

[WHX?? 49,205]

2 hours ago, Pullstart said:

If possible, a few checks before making the deal are crucial.

Ditto on that but it always seems once you get her home there are things you didn't catch at the sellers that might have been dickering points. 

[Pullstart 63,118]

34 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Ditto on that but it always seems once you get her home there are things you didn't catch at the sellers that might have been dickering points. 

Or you buy ‘em and drive 650 miles to get ‘em!    to be clear, I am very happy with my recent purchase… but sometimes to gotta shoot now and check for antlers later… right?

[Stepney 2,325]

Nothing I can add to any of those lists..
Have been known to simply find a abandoned horse in the woods, tickle the points and drive her out on a pump oil can full of 2 cycle gas.

[stevasaurus 22,884]

All very nice, but the biggest thing one just has to do.  Join Red Square, post pictures and ask questions.    

[Snoopy11 5,714]

9 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

All very nice, but the biggest thing one just has to do.  Join Red Square, post pictures and ask questions.    

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,714]

You forgot me... @ebinmaine... I have a diverse herd...

 

DISASSEMBLE!!! ...and REASSEMBLE...! 

 

Don

[Maxwell-8 4,334]

13 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

All very nice, but the biggest thing one just has to do.  Join Red Square, post pictures and ask questions.    

And start a thread about your horse, even tho some here take for ages to complete     Maybe guilty to this as well haha 

[Oldskool 6,653]

Looks like it's been covered quite well so far.

 

I check 

1. Oil

2. Wiring

Then clean the fuel system.

Remove the belt. Then fire it.

Once I know it runs I blow everything out.

Change fluids/ grease

Then front to back inspection to make a repair list.

 

I must say it all depends on the tractor and we're it came from.

 

The woods or from someone who was running and using it.

[squonk 41,474]

Make sure there's no water in the Trans -a- Mission!  

 

[Snoopy11 5,714]

27 minutes ago, squonk said:

Make sure there's no water in the Trans -a- Mission!

Don't forget to change the headlight fluid...! ...Buy the synthetic version...  

 

@Jeff-C175 would tell you to make sure it was lubed-up... 

 

Wax the tires, duck tape the exhaust... and BE SURE to pull the spark plug out, put it on your tongue and crank it over to make sure it has spark... 

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,714]

48 minutes ago, squonk said:

Make sure there's no water in the Trans -a- Mission!  

Oh, don't forget to fill the tires with helium... 

 

And buy a couple of quarts of peanut oil for the engine... 

 

Don

 

 

[Snoopy11 5,714]

5 hours ago, Pullstart said:

What’s the fun in that?  

FiER ExTiNgUiShEr ...ANYONE? 

 

Don

[8ntruck 7,119]

Once this list gets compiled, I think it would be a good idea to post it in the documentation section of the forum.

[ebinmaine 68,554]

2 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

Once this list gets compiled, I think it would be a good idea to post it in the documentation section of the forum.

 

I had the thought when I posted the subject to compile what everybody says into a common list and then edit it into my first post.

I'll likely do that tomorrow morning.

 

 

If anybody would like to suggest or add your own set of SEARCH WORDS that would also be appreciated.