Hmmmm.... Maybe THIS is "the" puller

[Docwheelhorse 2,682]

Happy Tuesday,

So... I've wrecked all sorts of cheap 3 jaw whimpy pullers on all sorts of projects including our famous stuck Wheel Horse hubs... 

 

I accidently wrecked @Sparky puller too and owe him for that.

 

My latest stuck hub had me looking again for something that would get it off.

 

Then I find this bad boy at harbor freight... I love the idea its hydraulic and eliminates the weak point of typical pullers---the threads on the point.

 

Cost me $75 after tax and the 20% coupon... Ill let you know how it goes.

 

Tony

[953 nut 55,756]

Hydraulics are good on hubs but three jaw pullers are not. Take a look at this puller, works great. I built one like @meadowfield but mine uses a flat piece of 3/8" steel bolted to the base of an eight ton bottle jack.

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,404]

21 minutes ago, Docwheelhorse said:

 

I accidently wrecked @Sparky puller too and owe him for that.

Help me slide out both hubs on my 867 and we’ll call it even 

[WHX?? 49,152]

I always was going to get one of those. Let us know how you rig it to the hub. Bearing separator behind the hub somehow? 

 

The thing with Meadowfield" setup is if the all thread is not evenly tight but I guess a guy should use a torque wrench to get them all even. 

22 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Hydraulics are good on hubs but three jaw pullers are not.

Agreed Richard especially on the more fragile "star" hubs. I'll never try to pull one of those again by the stud holes. 

BTW this was on a 867 Sparky. 

[oldlineman 1,482]

I believe the best pulling point is behind the hub with a bearing puller, strongest point to pull on. The pulling method (power) is up to the individual preference.  Bob 

[Docwheelhorse 2,682]

34 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

I always was going to get one of those. Let us know how you rig it to the hub. Bearing separator behind the hub somehow? 

 

The thing with Meadowfield" setup is if the all thread is not evenly tight but I guess a guy should use a torque wrench to get them all even. 

Agreed Richard especially on the more fragile "star" hubs. I'll never try to pull one of those again by the stud holes. 

BTW this was on a 867 Sparky. 

I wont tell you about my experience removing the entire axle out of my B100 with the puller and hub still stuck on end. Note to self---hitting back of hub with small sledge hammer is dumb!

[WHX?? 49,152]

Last tranny I had to split Doc I just got one side off. Came off easy due to leaking seal. Then split the cases, disassembled the diff,  and took the axle with the hub attached  to a press. Worked slicker than snot on a door knob. Yep never bang on the backside of the hub lest you incur the wrath of @stevasaurus ! 

 

Edited November 9, 2021 by WHX??

[ri702bill 8,487]

Tony:

Built this bad boy in the spring using a HF Bearing Seperator and a Snap-on fine pitch puller screw. (East meets West???) - pulls on the backside of the hub, not the flange - works well

Bill

[peter lena 8,720]

@ri702bill agree with you on that split flange puller , that will direct the pull to the center of your  draw right at axel mount , then its strength against strength , those  outer cast flange pull points are the weakest pull point , thus , the breakage , also like your added flat steel back ups , pete  

[oliver2-44 9,848]

53 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

 Yep never bang on the backside of the hub lest you incur the wrath of @stevasaurus ! 

A tractor friend traded me some parts in exchange for me pulling some John Deere 110 hubs since I had a torch to heat them.  No-Go! Heat and a puller would not budge the hub off its splined shaft.

Did some searching and John Deere actually recommends you use two wedges between the axle housing and back of hub to shear the axle clip in the transmission.   But it worked. Then took it to a 20 ton press with heat and a lot of force, the hub jumped off.

Edited November 9, 2021 by oliver2-44

[WHX?? 49,152]

Actually not a bad Idea Ollie if you have to split the cases for service anyway. Better to have to replace .99 snap ring than a hub that is not made anymore. Only thing I would worry about is messing up the groove the snap ring sets in or wedging pieces of snap ring in the groove that just don't fall out. That would be about my luck.

Obviously wouldn't work with the units that have roll pins in behind the axle gear. 

 

Can imagine the french involved with doing battle with brown welded splines! 

Edited November 9, 2021 by WHX??

[Maxwell-8 4,290]

2 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Have had the same happen on my raider, since hubs are super rare and extremely expensive here, and waiting-time is superb long. I decided to weld it with special cast-iron welding rods.

[Snoopy11 5,714]

1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

imagine the french involved

 

Don

[oldlineman 1,482]

Doesn't look too bad. Key to welding cast is preheat the metal and cool very slow, preferably in sand or like material. 

[Wheelhorse#1 1,698]

Guess I’ve been lucky haven’t had to use a puller yet.I did have one that was stubborn.I used a air hammer.
Guess that could be risky for the trans but I haven’t had a problem.

Thanks for the tips !

 

[JoeM 7,874]

this is one I use, I put bolts, 7/16 fine, in all 5 holes and even them up. The puller is a grade 8 full threaded bolt from MMC, I lube the threads on the welded nut in the center. When it cranks down to tight, I will add heat. Use the lower setting on the 1/2 impact gun. I have an oxy acetylene torch, but a good MAP torch will do the trick also. Putting the heat on the rear toward the outside. Usually when the paint on the front of the hub bubbles, she is ready. 

The one in the picture was a heater upper!

 

 

[WHX?? 49,152]

Nice repair job ther Max.  I would have never attempted it but then again over here they can be had yet but for who knows how long? 

Good thread Doc I never get tired of threads that involves @953 nuts rites of passage. Next topic steering wheels or hitch pins. 

They do have bearing separators out ther for three point manual or HY pullers but they ain't exactly given them away. More for industrial applications than the hoobydoist as the Dino would say. 

I don't know if @Aldon is hanging out any more but he came up with a show HY puller set up and he is a GT-14 fan with those really stubborn  ones. 

[squonk 41,320]

Here's the puller I made. Similar to Joe's

 

[Docwheelhorse 2,682]

Happy Thanksgiving all,  got the hub pulled out today. The puller is arguably too big and too heavy and too akward... it was a pain to get setup and I had to tape a Chinese deep socket to the ram because it simply wouldn't reach. But when I finally got it situated it pulled the hub like butter on 2 or 3 pumps.

 

It's all back together, still needs more TLC but I got my first official ride.

 

 

[Maxwell-8 4,290]

Looks like a good 3jaw puller, still don't like them a ton.

You need a way to pull the hub, as close to the axle as possible.

[Maxwell-8 4,290]

Not mine, but this is a interesting design.. 

Seems to be able to pull very close to the axle.