Shifting and high gear issues

[Somewhatsober1 7]

Just purchased a 314-8 from a buddy it sat for a year but new battery and fired right up. The issues I’m having though is it won’t go into high gear what so ever and will go into gear and start moving without “clutch” in or out. Low works but once again moves when just pressure towards a gear. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,094]

Welcome to the forum.

Don't understand your problem. Try rewording it.

 

The drive belt guard must be in place for the clutch pedal to control tension on the drive belt. The belt must be inside the top and bottom guard flanges.

 

The transmission driven pulley has a Woodruff key driving the input shaft. If it shears the pulley can spin on the shaft. The higher the gear the easier it can spin.

Each wheel hub also has Woodruff keys that can shear causing the same slippage.

It only takes one of the three to fail to lose drive.

Watch to see if a shaft is turning inside the pulley or either wheel hub. If you can see the wheel studs you can see the ends of the axle shaft.

 

[Somewhatsober1 7]

It will absolutely not go into high just sits there and grinds but low no problem and when in gear there is no stopping tractor by depressing the clutch or break it stays moving forward or reverse. Sorry about the explanation it’s difficult to explan. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,094]

When the clutch pedal is down the drive belt must stop before you can shift gears. Sounds like that is not happening.

 

Remove the belt guard and check the idler pulley bearing. The pulley should spin smoothly with no play in the bearing.

Remove the belt from the engine pulley and sand any rough rust out of the pulley groove. That is where the belt slips so needs to be smooth.

The drive belt should be 5/8" wide x 82" around the outside.

 

The belt guard must be installed to support the bottom span of belt when the clutch pedal loosens the belt. This forces the slack to the engine pulley where it will slip.

 

If you find the tractor model number and serial number post them so we can link you to the correct manuals.

 

Let us know what you find.

[953 nut 55,764]

Sounds like there are a couple of things going on here. First, as Garry @gwest_ca said the belt guard MUST be in place properly to stop the belt when the clutch is depressed. The pulley on you engine turns counter-clockwise and pulls the belt to move the . When the belt guard is not properly installed the belt won't stop.

Take a look at the belt, it may be worn to the point that it is grabby. A new Kevlar 5/8" by 82" beit from Tractor supply may be the cure.

[peter lena 8,720]

@Somewhatsober1  , first question , what does the trans fluid look like on the dip stick ? shifter boot ripped ? probably filled with brown /  milky used to be oil . if it is , a fluid drop , left rear corner bottom , allen plug removal to drain , plug probably packed with dirt , search for it . jack up front end to enhance draining , agree with others on the belt issue , this is a combination of issues , not a one and done fix. refill with  fuel oil or atf fluid to start a flushing clean out , use what ever gear you have to get some movement , and flushing action going in the trans , do not force the shifter , movement creates a waterfall of lubricant flushing cleaning . done this  same recovery on others horses, probably have to do it at least 2 times to get a fresh oil function on gear sliding , the possible belt , pulley is another recovery step by step , you will have to do , pete   

[Somewhatsober1 7]

Thanks everyone after work I’m going to tear into it and check everything. I’ll get serial number as well and post it. I know shifter boot looked good I’ll check tranny fluid, I know I had to put drive belt back on tensioner so maybe the guard is bent back to far or needs re fabed 

[oldlineman 1,482]

make sure you have the belt orientation with belt tensioner pulley right. Bob

[Somewhatsober1 7]

Update belt had popped off again looks like tensioner pulley is loose and wobbly, model number is 73448 found the tranny dip stick and oil looks brand new.

Edited November 9, 2021 by Somewhatsober1
Found dip stick

[Somewhatsober1 7]

Another update when I use clutch to slow the belt it kicks it off 

[stevasaurus 22,861]

It's a 1998 314-8.   Welcome to Red Square.  BTW, your avatar is upside down.  

Communication will be easier if when you talk about high and low...call it hi range and low range if you are referring to the hi/low shifter.  Use 1st, 2nd, 3rd & reverse gear when talking about the gear with the main shifter.  Your clutch works when you depress the clutch pedal...the tension pulley drops down enough to put some slack in the drive belt.  The belt guard funnels that slack toward the front engine pulley.  That allows the input pulley of the transmission to stop turning...now you can shift without grinding gears.  Letting out the clutch pedal brings the tension pulley back up, tightens the belt and off you go.  Always come to a complete stop before shifting.

   You may have more then one thing going on.  After you figure out the clutch and gear shifting, it sounds like you are having trouble with your hi/low range shifter.  That shifter has a small fork at the other end which sets in the groove of a "fork gear".  Moving the range shifter slides that fork gear  on the input shaft  between to other gears.  Rust, or a bent or broken fork could be the issue.  A bent or broken fork requires opening the trans to replace the fork.  Do not force anything.  Figure out the drive belt issue 1st and then let's see what shakes.  Dip stick should be under seat.  

[Somewhatsober1 7]

Belt looks brand new and is the detentions I was given 

[stevasaurus 22,861]

If the bearing is shot in that tension pulley, I think it can be fixed.  Take a good picture of it and post it here.  @WHX?? might be able to do that for you or tell you how to do it.    Is there a tab on top of that bearing?  It should be positioned so as to keep the belt in place.  No tab on my 857.

 

[Somewhatsober1 7]

Yes there is a tab. When I depressed clutch belt hits the tab and comes off tensioner 

[stevasaurus 22,861]

See if you can adjust the tab or tap it so it does not hit.  Try to close that gap a little. A hammer can be your friend here. 

[Somewhatsober1 7]

All gears high and low are in working order now after I bent tab over a little more on tensioner pulley, the belt stays on now.

  It makes a pretty good whining sound from the pulley coming off the motor is that normal or does that need to be adjusted as well? 

[Handy Don 12,457]

2 minutes ago, Somewhatsober1 said:

All gears high and low are in working order now after I bent tab over a little more on tensioner pulley, the belt stays on now.

  It makes a pretty good whining sound from the pulley coming off the motor is that normal or does that need to be adjusted as well? 

I'm going to guess that your pulleys are not all in the same plane. Since you have the cover off, you can check that with a good straightedge.

Remember that the belt is rotating counter-clockwise so it's likely something between the engine and the tensioner pulley that's causing it, but a bent transmission pulley can also be a problem. Of course, any excess wear spot on the belt or cut/crack can trigger it being thrown.

[stevasaurus 22,861]

If it's the tension pulley, try a few DROP of 3 & 1 oil.  It appears to be OK.  Put the guard back on and take her for a ride.  You mean the hi/low range shifter works now also??  Remember to come to a complete stop when changing gears.  Check oil in trans.  

   I'm thinking the guy that put a new belt on bent that tab to get the old one out and the new one in there.

[Somewhatsober1 7]

Yeah I’m assuming that’s what he did as well with the tab and I think high range wasn’t engaging because the belt would come off as soon as I hit the clutch so it was never able to idle down enough for it to pop in just grind, and I checked tranny fluid it looks like it was just changed 

[stevasaurus 22,861]

Sounds like it is time to take that horse for a good ride and loosen her up.  Enjoy your horse.  

[Somewhatsober1 7]

Thanks for all the help everyone! I’ll Chealse back when I figure out the whining noise 

[stevasaurus 22,861]

Check the engine oil??    Might just need to drive around and let everything lube itself again.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,094]

The back of the drive belt should be 5/8" wide. In the photo it looks narrow and deep in the pulley.

[Handy Don 12,457]

1 hour ago, Somewhatsober1 said:

Yeah I’m assuming that’s what he did as well with the tab and I think high range wasn’t engaging because the belt would come off as soon as I hit the clutch so it was never able to idle down enough for it to pop in just grind, and I checked tranny fluid it looks like it was just changed 

 

1 minute ago, gwest_ca said:

The back of the drive belt should be 5/8" wide. In the photo it looks narrow and deep in the pulley.

Just looked closely at the belt. Cracked and rough and smooth-sided. Candidate for replacement in my book.

[peter lena 8,720]

@Somewhatsober1  that whining noise is probably idler  pulley , you can get the same thing if you want , or if you have a local bearing distributor  near , bring it with you and get the same type and size with a bigger bearing , probably with wide rubber side shields , that can be removed , cleaned out and refilled with lucas xtra heavy duty grease . pick up a bronze insert for  the bigger bearing, with a 3/8"  ID . bolt it right back in place , no noise or failures . just an idea , pete