5086 Axle play

[Wheelhorse#1 1,669]

Hello all

When removing the hubs to inspect them I noticed some play,I added a vid to view .I’m not sure if this is something like bearings or something els or normal ?
I’m  going to replace the seals ,there on order.One hub is worn at the keyway so I’ll probably replace that as well as a extra thumb screw with jamb nut and thread locker on both.

It’s a sunstrand auto and seems to work fine otherwise.It does make some noise when off the ground and in forward gear..normal? It’s strong when up against a object and put in gear, it will dig in and spin tires.

I changed the trans fluid and filter with proper type.Is it difficult to replace the outer needle  bearings?

I guess someone replace a hub at some point as it looks different,more beefier than the other .

Thanks 

Ill need a hub so I’ll look in the wanted ads here.

 

Edited November 7, 2021 by Wheelhorse#1

[pfrederi 17,741]

In and out play is OK.  Should be no up down forward backward movement.

 

Some sunstrands are noisier than other.  if it works don't worry.  Why change hubs the thinner one is original and has lasted 50 years or so...

Edited November 7, 2021 by pfrederi

[stevasaurus 22,765]

That play is perfectly normal...in and out 1/8".  You are just butting up to the other axle.  It is the side to side and up and down that indicates a bad bearing.  It looks like your outer bearings are just fine.  It is not hard to change out the outer bearings...drain the transaxle, drop the transaxle, split the case and pull out the differential, tap out the bearings, place the new ones and put everything back together...add back fluid.  Not something you need to do yet.  

[ebinmaine 67,671]

I answered your YT channel before I read this. 

 

I'll "3rd" that the endplay is fine. 

 

Spare hubs can be had. 

If your grooves are bad then perhaps @WHX?? Jim can fix them. 

Excellent used hubs can be purchased from Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA. 

 

 

[Wheelhorse#1 1,669]

5 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

That play is perfectly normal...in and out 1/8".  You are just butting up to the other axle.  It is the side to side and up and down that indicates a bad bearing.  It looks like your outer bearings are just fine.  It is not hard to change out the outer bearings...drain the transaxle, drop the transaxle, split the case and pull out the differential, tap out the bearings, place the new ones and put everything back together...add back fluid.  Not something you need to do yet.  

 

Thanks for all the advice .I should of added the reason I may need a another  hub is  the keyway is somewhat worn.I  the previous owner used a bolt in place of a thumb screw in a effort to tighten down the hub and the key was mashed all the way down.

I may just give it a shot and see if it will hold first,Hubs aren’t cheap. 
 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,671]

40 minutes ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

may just give it a shot and see if it will hold first,Hubs aren’t cheap

 

Excellent used ones are about $40 or so. 

 

You may be able to get away with using what you have if you use a new key and set screw.  

Possibly could even repair your existing hub with careful use of J. B. Weld. 

 

[Snoopy11 5,714]

Makes me wonder if... you cut your own key to go in the hub... it would help? 'cause you could cut it any size you need... 

 

Just a thought... 

 

Don

[ebinmaine 67,671]

43 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

Makes me wonder if... you cut your own key to go in the hub... it would help? 'cause you could cut it any size you need... 

 

Just a thought... 

 

Don

Problem there, is that the groove in the hub is almost always wallowed out in sort of a curve.

It would be nigh-on to impossible to get it correct.

 

 

[Howie 886]

If the inside diameter of hub is okay. just put the keyway on the other side. Think I did

that to one on my Raider twelve. Drilled a new hole over keyway and tapped for a bolt.

[Wheelhorse#1 1,669]

On 11/7/2021 at 5:42 PM, ebinmaine said:

 

Excellent used ones are about $40 or so. 

 

You may be able to get away with using what you have if you use a new key and set screw.  

Possibly could even repair your existing hub with careful use of J. B. Weld. 

 

Yes AtoZ tractor has them for 50 that’s with shipping.
Ill just try using the damaged hub for now.The keyway inside the hub has been chipped away closets to the screw.Luckily the shaft is still good.

I bought new keys and screws and jamb nut from Mc Master.I bought a dozen this time.I’m seeing if your going to be working on or restoring these fine tractors the hubs will almost always need attention.

Edited November 9, 2021 by Wheelhorse#1

[Wheelhorse#1 1,669]

18 hours ago, Howie said:

If the inside diameter of hub is okay. just put the keyway on the other side. Think I did

that to one on my Raider twelve. Drilled a new hole over keyway and tapped for a bolt.

 

Interesting .How did you make the keyway cut for the key ,inside of the hub? 

Edited November 9, 2021 by Wheelhorse#1
Slow

[Howie 886]

Like this.

[Wheelhorse#1 1,669]

Howie 

This is great ,how does it work, something  you put together yourself ?

[pfrederi 17,741]

1 hour ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

Howie 

This is great ,how does it work, something  you put together yourself ?

You have to buy a broach set and have a large hydraulic press   I us my harbor freight 20ton press

[ebinmaine 67,671]

8 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

You have to buy a broach set and have a large hydraulic press   I us my harbor freight 20ton press

 

A video or pics of the process would be neat.  

 

 

[Howie 886]

I only have a small press, has an 8 or 10 ton hydraulic jack on it. Press it down thru the hub.

There are shims with the broach, add one and push back thru. Repeat. Enough shims to cut

it to the proper depth.

I bought the broach and the bushing for the 1 1/8 axle.

My press is not all that big, has an 4 ton jack on it. found the frame and added the jack to it.

Had a screw deal in it so kind of primitive.