GT 14 key

[Ed Kennell 38,241]

OK Greg,   I dumped out a few buckets -o- parts and come up with some possibilities.   I prefer to post the info here rather than in a PM so all members may gain some knowledge on the parts available and gain more benefit from your build.  After it is determined what you need, there may be members with the parts local to you.   If we get to negotiating cost and personal addresses, we will go to a PM.

 

Here is a pic of the front att-0-matic on my 312H.   Note it is bolted to a front frame crossmember with three bolts with a fourth hole for the axle pivot pin.

 

This is how the belt clears the front axle and tie rod.    Could be a problem on a GT.

 

Here is one of my available A-o-Ms.     The hood mounting brackets on top would probably not be used in your case.

 

Here are some of the PTO clutch parts you would need if you need to  replace the electric clutch.  Some other parts that I do not have are missing.    You need to confirm the shaft diameter. 1" or 1 1/8".

 

 

This is the mid mount A-0-M that you need for the swing arm side drive.    I think the PO altered this for the sicle bab installation.   It should have a bend in the plate to angle the pulley toward the deck center pulley.   It looks like yours was straightened and spaced from the frame to mount the sickle bar.

 

 

This is the swing arm/tensioning assembly for the side drive.

 

This is the deck carriage assembly you need to mount the one deck.    BTW,   eith one of those decks may work with the side drive.   The center deck drive pulleys are near the same location.    The belt lengths would probably not be the same.

 

There is one other front drive that was used as a transision from the side drive to the current front mule drive system.  This pulley bracket mounts to the frame side rails and has a spring loaded delt tensioning pulley.   The one pulley is missing on this bracket.

 

So Greg,  this may give you some possibilities and may spur some  ideas from other members that are familiar with the GT series.

 

I hope this helps and is not too confusing.

 

 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Aren't GT14 Frames wider than regular horses.  Wouldn't that affect mounting front tachmatic and the width of the deck hanger frame??????

[Ed Kennell 38,241]

12 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Aren't GT14 Frames wider than regular horses.  Wouldn't that affect mounting front tachmatic and the width of the deck hanger frame??????

I don't know Paul.   Hopefully some GT owners can answer some of these questions.

[fullchoke 22]

Thanks Ed, It is confusing and complicated, more so than I anticipated. Since you aren't experienced with the GT14, we will need help from those that have the GT14 and are. I can provide measurements, but 1st hand knowledge from those that have it all mounted, is desired. I hope the answers come.

Thanks again

[pfrederi 17,741]

59 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

I don't know Paul.   Hopefully some GT owners can answer some of these questions.

 

 

Just measured GT14 frame is 8" outside to outside.  Regular horses are 7"

 

Front end  of frame is different also . The axle pivot doesn't come through the front plate.  That plate doesn't look wide (tall) enough to adequately support the front tachmatic. 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Not the best pic of the front end but you can see how small the front plate is.  Also pic of how the side mount mechanism works.

 

 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Unless someone has actually converted a GT14 to front tachmatic mule drive set up  I would stick with the side mount.   Your decks have the lift arm... and the side pulley brackets etc are not hard to come by.  

[Ed Kennell 38,241]

Very helpful Paul.        I see the mid mount is installed inside the frame rails.  This should make the inside width of the Att-o-Mat about the same inside width as a regular tractor which is mounted on the outside of the frame rail.      So the deck carriage should mount up the same on both.         

Paul, where is the pivot shaft for the swing arm.   Is there a bracket that bolts the shaft to the frame.     I am thinking the older tractors I had with the side drive had the shaft welded to the frame.

Yes, to mount a front mule,  would probably require welding another larger plate to the frame that allowed a lowering of the mule for the belt to clear the dropped axle.

[Ed Kennell 38,241]

16 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Paul, where is the pivot shaft for the swing arm.

My bad Paul...I remembered the shaft is in the deck support.

[953 nut 55,325]

8 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Unless someone has actually converted a GT14 to front tachmatic mule drive set up  I would stick with the side mount.   Your decks have the lift arm... and the side pulley brackets etc are not hard to come by.  

I know that @Aldon mounted a mule drive latch to his custom GT22-8, no details but here is a picture.

[fullchoke 22]

I really appreciate all the help and advice. If I can use the newer deck with the side mount PTO, that is what sounds best. 

I got my new key today, and once I saw it, I knew it wasn't going to work. I don't know where to go with this key problem. The switch doesn't look like it was ever changed. The local garden center said it was the only key listed. Serial number is 755823 and it's a 1971 model. 

 

Thanks

[oliver2-44 9,764]

I’m on my cell so harder to copy and paste older threads. But I recall @Aldon changed his GT14 to the mid attach a magic and front mule drive to use a modern 60” deck. He mounted the mid attach a matic brackets to the inside of the frame instead of on the outside of the frame like on the 70’s and later horses. I think he had to add some spacer washers also. 
 

@fullchokewhile you try to figure the key out you can Hotwire the tractor. Since you have a coil and points Ignition to test the engine.   You need a medium duty alligator clip type test lead and one jumper cable. Connect the alligator clip to the + side of the coil and to plus side of battery.  (points should already be wired to - side of coil)  Use the red jumper cable and connect it to the + side of the battery then touch the copper 1/4” bolt coming out of the starter. Don’t leave the lest lead on the coil for long if the engine is not running. 
you may want to use the jumper cable and hit the starter to spin the engine over. When trying to start spray some gas or carb cleaner in the carb inlet. Don’t use starting fluid it can damage these engines. When it starts you can run and drive tractor with just the test lead providing power to the coil. It bypasses all the tractors wiring   I’ve done this on a couple of new to be tractors as I try to get them running before I spend much money on them. 

[fullchoke 22]

My 2 decks are different in that the one lift arm(I think that is what it is)that I have only attaches to the older deck . I would like to use the newer deck. The lift arm would need a different attachment for it or possibly a different arm. The new deck has wider attachment points. It also has a metal tag on it, but I'm not 100% sure if the tag belongs to the deck because of the way it is stuck on it. I could get that number if needed, or better pictures.

Thanks

[Ed Kennell 38,241]

On 11/16/2021 at 12:04 AM, oliver2-44 said:

He mounted the mid attach a matic brackets to the inside of the frame

Yes, like shown in Pauls picture above.     By doing this, theinside width of the attach-0-matic is close to the necessary seven inches to use the newer deck carriage.

 

 

[gt14rider 765]

Here's my setup for my gt14, if you need measurements let me now

[Ed Kennell 38,241]

1 hour ago, gt14rider said:

Here's my setup for my gt14

So the belt clears the axle OK ?     That is what concerned me...thinking the mule may have to be positioned lower for the botom belt loop to clear the bottom of the dropped axle.t

[gt14rider 765]

My bracket is 3x5 and so is stock bracket, so should be the same. My belt clears no problem. 

[fullchoke 22]

Thanks guys for the continuing help on this. I have to admit, I'm at a loss on how these 2 different mounting options will work. I really don't want to use the older deck but the system that would allow either deck to be used would probably be best if both end up working the same.

Today I took all of my old keys out to the tractor, on a longshot that 1 might work. One yale key did work a couple of times and the engine cranked, but wouldn't work again. It was similar to a locking gas cap key. Odd that a key worked a couple of times then stopped.

[953 nut 55,325]

1 hour ago, fullchoke said:

Odd that a key worked a couple of times then stopped.

Probably not long for this world.     A replacement 103-990 switch will cost about $ 15.00 on  and you can use this drawing as a guide for wiring it in.

 

[fullchoke 22]

I found a tag on the mower, finally got some help with reading it. The 1st line is : 05-42MR01 34487. 2nd line is: 1103 which I think is the serial # because it is stamped individually by hand. I'm hoping that this will identify the mower deck to tell exactly what a GT14 needs to have on it to run that deck. Also I'm hoping both decks require the came mounting system. It isn't clear to me how all the belts and pulleys line up.

Thanks

[953 nut 55,325]

That would be a much newer 42" rear discharge deck. Here are a few manuals that cover your deck. You will want to use the front Mule Drive like @gt14rider posted photos of.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=42MR01&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy