TJ5208 1,824 #1 Posted November 6, 2021 Does sea foam clean out the carburetor? Was thinking about getting some, what kind do I need after the engine has sat for a while. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,627 #2 Posted November 6, 2021 @TJ salyers , yes sea foam does clean out the carb , do you have any gas filters on the fuel line ? debris is usually from the more commonly , ethanol break down of the original fuel line. you might change out the original fuel line for a clear vinyl fuel rated line. another good fuel stabilizer is , STA- BIL for fuel storage. that untreated fuel , is the possible culprit on a hard start . always treat your fuel , it helps keep it stabilized for easy starting , pete 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #3 Posted November 6, 2021 Yes, the tractor has a fuel filter. It wont idle, took the carb bowl off it's a little dirty. Then I found one of the reasons is because one of the head bolts was broke it was letting air and oil out. Could that be the problem? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #4 Posted November 6, 2021 Hey TJ, Yes, there are different methods of using Sea Foam, for carb, and internal engine components. I will say though, that if you are having carb issues, don't be afraid of taking it apart and physically cleaning it out... as many times cleaners such as Sea Foam can not help the amount of gunk inside the carb. I am having a similar issue with my Kawasaki engine that I am in the process of redoing (see here). I know that... among other various issues, I have a fueling issue... which has to be dealt with manually... (this is because I can't get fuel to the carb... so I know that I have an issue somewhere... )... However, if the engine does run (just doesn't run well)... 1. Check condition of spark plug(s). 2. Drain or siphon the old fuel from the tank. 3. Drain each carburetor bowl. (see IMPORTANT if not easily accessible) 4. After removing gasoline from the tank and carburetor, add a mixture of Sea Foam followed by 8 ounces of fresh gasoline (1 to 2 ratio). 5. With the cleaning mixture in the fuel tank, crank/prime/rope-pull the engine to draw the cleaning mix into the carburetor(s). 6. Allow engine to sit and soak – Overnight to 24 hours if possible, 48 to 72 hours when necessary. 7. Once the engine starts and runs, Sea Foam in the tank will continue to dissolve residues as fuel is drawn through the carburetor. 8. Add more fresh fuel when ready to operate engine under load (working engine). If you have an enormous amount of gum in the carb... you might need to take it apart, put it in a bowl of seafoam and clean with toothpick. Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #5 Posted November 6, 2021 7 minutes ago, TJ salyers said: head bolts was broke Those A-holes are a pain in the )( to get out when they break... Leaking head will definitely cause running/idling issue. How do you plan... DO you plan to do anything about the head bolt? Broken head bolts are not the end of the world... Here is the thing, TJ... when you take on an older project, like you, I, and a lot of guys here do... you have to be prepared to put in a good amount of work to prepare the engine for running. Say for instance, the engine was running fine. The fact is, if you don't clean the carb after years of sitting, it could be running lean, which could cause excess heat in the head, which is detrimental to the valve train. Honestly, these are the types of things that you need to do to keep small issues from turning into big issues. Again, even if the engine is running fine, you still need to be proactive and check some items off the list of potential issues... as when you have a variety of issues going on, it could be any/all of those issues which are prohibiting you from making progress. This is what is happening with my Kawasaki. I am running into issue after issue, checking them off the list as I go. Even when the engine finally runs, I won't be done with proactive taking things apart, cleaning, maintenance... etc... Up on my box now... but that is my Don 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,627 #6 Posted November 6, 2021 @TJ salyers , agree with @Snoopy11 on the head bolt issue , that puts it in an entirely different situation , your initial question , did not mention that. that broken stud has to be replaced , head removal , clean up , and the rest of refitting that . if you can't do this on your own . you might find a another horse owner nearby that could help you out , get an estimate and insight to finish the job , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #7 Posted November 6, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, peter lena said: @TJ salyers , agree with @Snoopy11 on the head bolt issue , that puts it in an entirely different situation , your initial question , did not mention that. that broken stud has to be replaced , head removal , clean up , and the rest of refitting that . if you can't do this on your own . you might find a another horse owner nearby that could help you out , get an estimate and insight to finish the job , pete I live very close to TJ... but with everything I have going on right now around the funny farm... I probably wouldn't / couldn't get to it until Spring/Summer... THAT is a long time out... Don Edited November 6, 2021 by Snoopy11 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #8 Posted November 6, 2021 (edited) One other thing to try, TJ, to see if it is a fuel issue... use some carb spray and spray into the carb while it is running... if it idles fine... then you know it is definitely a fuel issue, rather than the head bolt issue. Don Edited November 6, 2021 by Snoopy11 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #9 Posted November 6, 2021 A little JB weld putty might also temporarily solve your cylinder head leaking problem... High heat formula preferably... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
