Snoopy11 5,714 #26 Posted November 6, 2021 15 hours ago, ebinmaine said: This type of wheel can be held in place by using a LARGE bolt. I have a piece of 3/4" thread rod maybe 10" long with several nuts washers and a wing nut. Hold that in a vice and it becomes a handy dandy wheel holdererer. That is what I am thinking about... I have a long cabinet clamp... thinking... if I drill a hole in the work bench ()... I could put the clamp through the rim, through the workbench, and tighten the clamp. Then the real work begins... Don 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #27 Posted November 6, 2021 15 hours ago, EB-80/8inPA said: seeing as this thing is sending you to the poor house You got THAT right. 100$ just for the igy coil. My total cost on this build is rising... I will have to keep track and give a total at the end of the build... (taking for granted I actually GET to the end...) Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #28 Posted November 6, 2021 (edited) Got the fuel system cleaned out... talking about @TJ salyers carburetor today gave me the gumption to clean my own carburetor out... and I got everything flowing... thank God... Don Edited November 6, 2021 by Snoopy11 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #29 Posted November 7, 2021 Guys... after a little bit of coaxing from a buddy, once I get this thing running... I think I might go with this paint, along with a nice shiny clear coat... I know, I know... it's green... and I said I wasn't going to do green... but this is not John Deere green...! Whatchya guys think? Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #30 Posted November 7, 2021 I am still undecided about the paint though... Obviously, I will need to get new decals... which I plan to do anyway... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,497 #31 Posted November 7, 2021 Is that as textured as the pic appears? Maybe a high metallic content? Either way it would be very forgiving on the bodywork. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #32 Posted November 7, 2021 5 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Is that as textured as the pic appears? Maybe a high metallic content? Either way it would be very forgiving on the bodywork. I am unsure, sir. I have never used it before... thus why I am a little cautious of it. BUT... it is rustoleum... I think... so should be okay... I hope. Supposedly very high metallic content. This is it here... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084WCFPBN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,497 #33 Posted November 7, 2021 Just keep in mind that's a lacquer. It's VERY aggressive and likely to lift many paints left below it. Many years ago when I sold DuPont paint we had a saying: You can put anything over lacquer but you can't put lacquer over anything. There may be modern sealers or primer/sealers that will negate the effects. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #34 Posted November 7, 2021 5 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Just keep in mind that's a lacquer. It's VERY aggressive and likely to lift many paints left below it. Many years ago when I sold DuPont paint we had a saying: You can put anything over lacquer but you can't put lacquer over anything. There may be modern sealers or primer/sealers that will negate the effects. Thank you so much for that advice Eric. I had absolutely not idea... I hate NOTHING more than having to scrape... soak in gas, or paint thinner... body panels after a bad paint job. So... what would you suggest I do... go with a primer first, or do you think a more sure outcome would be with a different type of paint? I certainly appreciate, respect your advice buddy! Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,497 #35 Posted November 7, 2021 It's important to note that a primer isn't necessarily a sealer. My best advice here would be to check with a store that sells paint in the modern world. It's been 25+ years since I be doin' that. If there's any doubt then choose a different chemical base like acrylic or urethane. The Rust-Oleum website may have usable info on it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #36 Posted November 8, 2021 So... after taking apart the engine... checking for wear... and putting it all back together, putting on new coil and igniter... IT'S ALIVE!!! I'll be posting a video of it running soon! Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #37 Posted November 8, 2021 Oh, and the hydro rear end works as well... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #38 Posted November 9, 2021 Here is some video... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #39 Posted November 9, 2021 (edited) The video is best played in 1080p... High definition, by the way... IF you internet is fast enough... Don Edited November 9, 2021 by Snoopy11 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,497 #40 Posted November 9, 2021 Sounds great!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #41 Posted November 9, 2021 12 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Sounds great!! Thanks Eric... hopefully I will be getting my tires soon... get this thing rolling around... "slowly rolling around" Hopefully I will be able to speed it up a little. I was reading though... it is possible to burn out the hydro of you go too extreme on pulley swaps... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #42 Posted November 9, 2021 Interestingly enough... this is the first time I have worked on a Kawasaki engine. What I will say... it is built better than many... most other engines I have come across. It has LARGE ball bearings, pretty solidly built... I did not get pictures of the valves themselves... sorry guys, my bad... but they are extremely clean! I know that a lot of Wheel Horse guys hate John Deere tractors, but this, as an older model, is built very well. It is very solid... THICK steel frame... I think the only truly faulty part of the design was the tabs holding the axle on. (whether it is truly faulty ...or the users were faulty... )... Everything about this thing is hulky... the front end is really thick... actually surprisingly similar in design to Wheel Horse. The deck on it is extremely strong, commercial in nature. It is not held up by cables, like the new John Deere mowers are (including my zero turn... whose cables break at least once a year...). This deck is held up by steel rods. Actually, everything except the deck adjustment knob itself is solid steel... thus why this entire unit is so heavy. I plan to get some headlights on there soon... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,497 #43 Posted November 10, 2021 8 hours ago, Snoopy11 said: Hopefully I will be able to speed it up a little. I was reading though... it is possible to burn out the hydro of you go too extreme on pulley swaps FYI. I've read that some hydros CAN'T be sped up. The pump drives what the pump drives whether it's overdriven or not. I'm not the expert. Just food for thought. You may wanna do some interwebs poking around..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,227 #44 Posted November 10, 2021 (edited) 14 hours ago, ebinmaine said: FYI. I've read that some hydros CAN'T be sped up. The pump drives what the pump drives whether it's overdriven or not. I'm not the expert. Just food for thought. You may wanna do some interwebs poking around..... @ebinmaine is in the right ballpark. Hydro motor output velocity is based on the volume of fluid moving through it. Volume depends on the source pump's capacity, the pressure the pump can deliver at that capacity, and how far the motion control valve is open. In theory, turning the pump faster would increase the output volume, right? But the specs for the hydros I've looked at (Eaton and Sunstrand) are very specific about the maximum permissible RPM of the pump input and are very clear that going outside the specs risks failure. Also, there are relief valves already in place inside that protect the unit from sudden acceleration and deceleration by shunting fluid around the motor instead of through it. These also come into play to prevent volume/pressure overloads. Lesson? You can overdrive a geared transmission but to speed up a hydro tractor, the only options I've seen are larger diameter tires or re-gearing the hydro motor-to-final drive ratio (WH did the latter in the 520-HC models). Edited November 10, 2021 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #45 Posted November 10, 2021 @ebinmaine... @Handy Don Thank you guys so much. I have never dealt with hydro's before, except with my zero turn. The zero turn only goes 7-8 mph... and this thing is around that speed (supposedly...) maybe just a touch slower. It says that the maximum input speed is 3,000 rpm... I wonder what rpm the pulley is rotating currently? How would I be able to tell that? I am definitely going to do some research on this before I do anything... This is a Tough Torq k61 in case anyone wants/needs to know... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #46 Posted November 10, 2021 Using a little common sense here... I would rather leave this thing stock than do something that would turn it into a grenade... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,497 #47 Posted November 10, 2021 3 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: How would I be able to tell that? You take the maximum rpm that your engine will do when it is set correctly. Measure your engine pulley which is your drive pulley. Measure your transmission pulley which is your driven pulley. From there it's just a matter of multiplication or division or whatever. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #48 Posted November 10, 2021 Also... for anyone's pleasure, at 3,000 rpm, it puts out 217 ft. lbs of torque... WOOHOO...! My HellHorse probably puts out triple, quadruple that... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,227 #49 Posted November 10, 2021 I recently tried using an optical tachometer application on my iPhone. It takes more fiddling than a purpose built one, but it was free! It "strobes" the LED lamp on the phone to "freeze" video being captured by the camera. "Video Tachometer" is the app. To find out how fast the pulley is turning, stick a piece of white tape on the pulley, dial in the approximate RPM and point it at the rotating pulley. Adjust the RPM settings on the phone until the tape appears to stand still in the image. It is important to note that multiples of what you've set in the phone look the same on screen. If you have 1100 dialed in, 2200 and 3300 look the same but your ears will tell you which range you are in! I also use it the other way--I wanted to set 950 idle and 3400 max RPM for an engine so I dialed one in and adjusted the throttle stops on the carb until the tape stood still. It worked well. A holder for the phone (human or mechanical) is a useful gadget for this! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #50 Posted November 10, 2021 3 minutes ago, Handy Don said: I recently tried using an optical tachometer application on my iPhone. It takes more fiddling than a purpose built one, but it was free! It "strobes" the LED lamp on the phone to "freeze" video being captured by the camera. "Video Tachometer" is the app. To find out how fast the pulley is turning, stick a piece of white tape on the pulley, dial in the approximate RPM and point it at the rotating pulley. Adjust the RPM settings on the phone until the tape appears to stand still in the image. It is important to note that multiples of what you've set in the phone look the same on screen. If you have 1100 dialed in, 2200 and 3300 look the same but your ears will tell you which range you are in! I also use it the other way--I wanted to set 950 idle and 3400 max RPM for an engine so I dialed one in and adjusted the throttle stops on the carb until the tape stood still. It worked well. A holder for the phone (human or mechanical) is a useful gadget for this! HAHAH... Handy Don, the only problem with that is... I don't have a smart phone... I have a dumb phone!!! Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
