Cracked Mounting Plate Eaton 1100 / REPAIR ? - Replace ?

[bds1984 1,435]

On 11/3/2021 at 12:43 PM, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Those bars could theoretically still flex left and right, no?

I would consider reinforcing the reinforcement with something like an angle where I scribbled blue.

 

Note that the factory kit has such a reinforcement.

 

I use 3/16" x 1" flat stock on my 520H like this and they're fine.  If one is really that worried about that reinforcement flexing laterally, I think a larger tractor may be needed or a better quality of steel used. 

[ri702bill 8,334]

All:

My 2 versions use 3/16 x 1-1/4 hot rolled steer with 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 angle. Also, I took advantage of the existing holes in the lower portion of the sides of the F plate - the braces have round threaded plugs that pilot INTO those holes....

Bill

[ri702bill 8,334]

Johnny:

A frame swap is a bit involved, but can be done with hand tools and a bit of patience - had to change the frame on my 854 8 speed. The good thing is it will give you a great accessment of the overall condition of the tractor and allow you to "discover" (or uncover) any hack backyard fixes performed by the prior owner(s) - a nail in place of a missing cotter pin, something welded where it should be either pinned or bolted, and so on. Some advise if you go this route - you need a cleared out space at least twice as large as the tractor itself, secure and well lit.

A GREAT resource is the Restoration and Modification section - others have posted pictures of their tear down & rebuild adventures.

 

Pictures - a ton of pictures - take pictures from all angles before you start and as you go - pay particular attention to get good close up pictures of all the routing of any wires, clips, connectors, fuel delivery system. VERY helpfull when re-assembling. Download the Service manual for your tractor - it covers items like engine and Unidrive removal procedures. Download any Service Bulletins related to your tractor too. Bag or tag all the fasteners for each subassembly and keep them with the respective item, don't just fill a 5 gallon bucket!! You will NOT need to remove the axle hubs nor the steering wheel - two true PIA tasks - good news.

Remove any implements - cutting deck, plow ans such. They will just be in the way.

Remove the hood

Remove the battery

Drain the fuel tank

I start at the front and work my way back - remove sheetmetal guards, drivebelt, remove the engine (no need to drain it as long as it stays upright).

Remove the hood stand (dashtower) with the steering wheel and shaft.

Remove the seat and rear sheet metal, remove the fuel tank

Remove the lower steering support and steering shaft.

Remove the Unidrive (wheels can stay on so you can roll it)

Remove the front axle (wheels can stay on so you can roll it)

You should now be looking at a bare frame.

Repair or replace worn out parts as needed & reassemble, I like to degrease and clean the subassemblies prior to reassembly - now is the time to touchup or repaint as needed.

 

Others may chime in on their preferences - I hope they do.

Bill

 

 

Edited November 5, 2021 by ri702bill

[johnnymag3 2,520]

19 hours ago, squonk said:

I would think welding a plate on the back side would upset the geometry of the trans linkage  on a hydro tractor. 

You are right...it would, and change the belt size. .. I plan on doing all of the work on the deck side, and using longer bolts. I am going to weld up the cracks, install a plate, and run two supports up to the frame at 45 degree angles.....Bolt them tight . Unless Bill D convinces me to do a frame swap....   HMMMMMMM

[johnnymag3 2,520]

I think I may do the frame swap....it seems very easy to me, I do have space, all the tools a guy could want or need...and I have done all of those things before,,,,just in a one at a time thing...

Replaced motors

Replace Rear ends

Done steering stuff

 

 I may just go for it since it was a one owner, garage kept machine...