johnnymag3 2,520 #1 Posted November 3, 2021 Has anyone done a thread on this? Hydro is rotating due to the lower 2 bolt holes in the mounting plate being cracked and the Eaton wants to tear the plate up the sides....Why did they make it so darn thin? I'm hoping you guys / gals have seen this and had a fix for it. I guess it could be welded, but it is still a thin plate to begin with. Its a 417 A Tractor. Can I put a 1/4 flat plate on the back side where the bolts go through to the Eaton? Thank you all in advance...Also the rails that go to the seat pan and gas tank are cracked and have1-2 inches missing off of them. It is what the shifter plate screws to 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,328 #2 Posted November 3, 2021 Johnny: Wow! That plate looks like it had a fight with a can opener and lost!. Seriously, there was a thread a while back about a member cutting the welds, removing the plate off the frame, and having a new one made at a local sheet metal / welding shop. Also, sounds like you MAY wish to replace the frame due to the other issues? Here is my version of the no longer available frame reinforcement plate and diagonal braces to stop the frame flexing (others have done similar) Bill 2 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,328 #3 Posted November 3, 2021 Almost forgot - you need to check 2 things Is the frame still square or twisted like the one below? It has a 3/8" twist to it along with 3 of the 4 holes cracked out. Check the cast iron lower steering bracket - one of the ears may very well be broken due to twist in the frame. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #4 Posted November 3, 2021 It has no twist, and the 2 Frame rails are still square. I will look at the lower steering area tonight...I do not believe there are any issues there ?? Thanks !!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,601 #5 Posted November 3, 2021 The "F" plate cracking is a very common issue. Most common on tractors that are used with a push blade. This is the reinforcement that I recently did to one of my tractors. 5 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,328 #6 Posted November 3, 2021 Achto is correct - plowing can take its toll on the frame - particularly if you keep hitting something and tripping the blade ..... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 926 #7 Posted November 3, 2021 To bad a vendor doesn't sell these here I would buy one of these! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,752 #8 Posted November 3, 2021 This is the repair using 1/4" thick 2x2 Angle iron...about 6" long. This method reinforces the corners as well as the mounting plate itself. WHEELHORSE FRAME PLATE FIX.pdf 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docwheelhorse 2,660 #9 Posted November 3, 2021 I have a good frame should you want to go that route... Im in central CT 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #10 Posted November 3, 2021 2 hours ago, Achto said: reinforcement Those bars could theoretically still flex left and right, no? I would consider reinforcing the reinforcement with something like an angle where I scribbled blue. Note that the factory kit has such a reinforcement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,601 #11 Posted November 3, 2021 3 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: Those bars could theoretically still flex left and right, no? I would consider reinforcing the reinforcement with something like an angle where I scribbled blue True, I was not considering side flex and I don't think it would be an issue. I was looking at the relieving the stress pull on the low part of the F plate. If I backed into some thing really hard it may push on the bars and flex them. One thing that I like about mine when compared to the factory add on is that mine is actually bracing the lower part of the transmission to the frame of the tractor. The factory add on is still relying on the F plate and their bracing does not go as far forward. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,235 #12 Posted November 3, 2021 9 minutes ago, Achto said: True, I was not considering side flex and I don't think it would be an issue. I was looking at the relieving the stress pull on the low part of the F plate. If I backed into some thing really hard it may push on the bars and flex them. Same problem if a deck, mid-mount grader, or blower hits something while going forward, right? Transmission tries to "crawl under" the tractor. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,328 #13 Posted November 3, 2021 (edited) Sorry Jeff - not factory. I made these - a different set for both my 854 and the C81. Yes, I added angle iron to reduce side flexure on both when they see compressive force as they do their intended job. (I'm a retired Machine Design Engineer....) Below is the one for the 854. Bill Edited November 3, 2021 by ri702bill 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #14 Posted November 3, 2021 You'll want your plate, angle iron, or what ever you use on the front side of the frame plate. It may only be a 1/4" but it won't affect belt length.... 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,601 #15 Posted November 3, 2021 @Jeff-C175, @Handy Don, @ri702bill, all good points. I only took pull into consideration because all of the cracked F plates that I have dealt with so far, the metal had pulled out towards the transmission after it cracked. When I make my next set I will use angle iron for the side braces. I am going to continue running this brace on this tractor and see how it holds up, this tractor only pulls things and never has a mid or front mount attachment on it. Thanks for the tips 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #16 Posted November 3, 2021 (edited) Since I just got this Tractor Yesterday........I would really like to know what the PO did with it....he was 87 years old and bought it new, in 1987. It shows no wear marks on the Rear axle from plow attachments, and he was not the plowing type.....At any rate, is there anything else that holds this Eaon11 in ? seems like alot of weight for 4 little bolts in a skimpy plate....did it attach to the metal brace for the Gas tank? thanks for the input so far....Im hoping to repair this on the machine. Edited November 3, 2021 by johnnymag3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skipper 1,788 #17 Posted November 3, 2021 A very heavy rider, over bumpy ground, for years and years might just do it. That would put a lot of pressure on the lower part of the F plate, pulling it backwards. Leave the rest to metal fatigue, and you got your cracking. That's just my 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #18 Posted November 3, 2021 Skipper....he was 6'6....and a good 285...... You may be on to something !!!!! 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #19 Posted November 3, 2021 Dumb Question......F Plate? why would they call a U shaped item an F plate....Other than Thats the F%^&( Plate thats going to break !!!! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,481 #20 Posted November 3, 2021 Very interesting subject. I have a 1979 c101 that I bought new and has plowed snow in western mountains of Pa. since it was born. No problems with the tranny mounting plate. Not sure why, but just my story. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,328 #21 Posted November 3, 2021 Frame plate ??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #22 Posted November 4, 2021 I was unable to find a thread on this...was there ever one? How tough is it to do a frame swap, what things are a PITA to remove if I go that route? John Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #23 Posted November 4, 2021 This is how I fixed mine. Simply had a piece of 10 ga. welded to the back side. I should stress though, this is not a working tractor. It simply hauls me around. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #24 Posted November 4, 2021 I would think welding a plate on the back side would upset the geometry of the trans linkage on a hydro tractor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #25 Posted November 4, 2021 10 gauge is 9/64" thick. It wasn't enough to make a difference. I did have this slightly longer pin from a bad tie rod. They are exactly the same but for the length. I don't think I would have had to use it though.. Yes, I did replace the broken cam. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites