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Oldskool

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oliver2-44
10 hours ago, Oldskool said:

 

The coasting aspect wasn't even a thought. Good point. That could make it even harder for the wife to drive.

@8ntruck @Handy Don @Pullstart
I have a 1965 Case 180 which utilizes a hydraulic pump motor drive connected to a 2 speed rear end. It is a true hydraulic drive. The “forward/reverse speed control” is a hydraulic control valve. Push it forward to go forward, pull it back for reverse. When the valve is in the center it is like neutral. The valve dumps the pump output when it is in the center.  There is really not a coast like putting the clutch in. If you have it pushed all the way forward (going fast). And pull the handle back to mid forward it will slow you down (hydraulic braking) 

It is fun to drive, but you have to be careful. You have full speed forward and same full speed reverse.  I have a manual, but have never seen any pump/motor pressure/flow spec’s. I’ll dig around and see if I can find anything. 

 

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Oldskool
8 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

Ok.  Been number crunching.

 

A 26" tire will run at 259 rpm at a vehicle speed of 20 mph.

 

You will need to turn the input shaft of the 3.73 diff at 966 rpm to do that.

 

If I were building this, I would use the 'three line' version of thetrans.  Those ratios give calculated speeds at 966 rpm input speed as:

 

1st gear - 5.7 mph

2nd gear - 10.5 mph

3rd gear - 20 mph

 

966 rpm axle input speed is the key number for design going forward.

 

 

 

@Pullstart

With your calculations if I was to belt clutch this I would be 3.62ish :1 from engine to trans? 

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Handy Don
6 hours ago, Oldskool said:

With your calculations if I was to belt clutch this I would be 3.62ish :1 from engine to trans? 

Yes. With a 40-series centrifugal clutch (usually a 3” pulley & good up to 20+ hp) you’d need ~10” pulley on the drive shaft.

If the trans is a synchro you could choose to start low and shift up. Or you could just start in the desired gear and “slip your way” to full engagement. This setup would engine-brake on “coasting” until the clutch RPM fell below the engagement speed.

A 40-series torque converter is also a possibility. Pricier with better speed control (based on torque not just engine speed).

I’ve got some useful info on the big mower hydro motors, I think. To lengthy for a post--we’ll have to speak. :rolleyes:

 

Edited by Handy Don
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Oldskool

@Handy Don tomorrow mid morning I'm available if that works for you. 

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Oldskool

I had some time to work on the bed roof this afternoon. While welding it dawned on me what I'll use as the roof covering.

I had though about using sheet metal or possibly painted plywood. Now the material of choice will be truck bed liner.

 

I've used them before for things like

floors in the duck and chicken coops.

Full size long bed trucks will give you a nice 4x8 sheet of heavy corrugated black plastic. If cut correctly it is even slightly interlocking at the seems.

 

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ebinmaine

Excellent idea 

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Oldskool

Remember kids......when grinding......even metal burns.

I found this on the shelf just doing its thing 

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Oldskool

A bit of work on the dash this morning.

 

Removed the old gauge holes to make room for the new dash panel.

Also welded in 4 old unneeded holes using a brass backer on front and welding in from the back.

 

Started making the back panel for the cab and had time to dig out the bedliner for the roof panel.

 

Hoping later this afternoon to get back to this.

20230312_105903.jpg

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Pullstart

They say whether big or small welding or grinding job… always hang out for 30 minutes or more to watch for rouge hot spots :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Oldskool
12 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

They say whether big or small welding or grinding job… always hang out for 30 minutes or more to watch for rouge hot spots :handgestures-thumbupright:

I do just that. 30-45min. cool down time.

I usually take that time to set up for my next time in the shop.

 

I have found some hot spots over the years following that way of thinking.

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Pullstart

The only hot spots I’ve ever found were crawling up my pants!

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Oldskool
2 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

The only hot spots I’ve ever found were crawling up my pants!

I don't think I own a sweatshirt/several other kinds of shirts without a 2or3in burn hole in the front.

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SylvanLakeWH
6 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

The only hot spots I’ve ever found were crawling up my pants!

 

:scared-eek:

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Oldskool

So I cut the center section of that bedliner out and set it on.

 

It fit well for what it was going to do other then several inches to long.

It had a nice rolled front. (Pic1&2)

 

While it was there I slid it ahead. I must say I'm diggin the full hard roof. The liner formed from the curved back to the flat front flawlessly. It also would have the flexibility as the cab and body move separately on rough terrain.

 

To top it all off the wifey likes the hard top look as well. Now I need to get a liner from a long bed truck. This one is to short to make the full distance 

20230312_172931.jpg

20230312_173012.jpg

20230312_175013.jpg

Edited by Oldskool
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wallfish
9 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

While it was there I slid it ahead. I must say I'm diggin the full hard roof.

X3  :handgestures-thumbup:

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Oldskool

Finally some shop time again.

Working on the back of the cab today.

Maybe onto the rear valance and/or tailgate as well.

 

I may have my hands on an air cooled Yamaha 570 2 stroke twin cylinder for a power plant.

Rated at 80-85hp.

 

I was going to ad a pic but just noticed I need to pay my annual RS $$.

That will definitely be taken care of later today

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wallfish
2 hours ago, Oldskool said:

I may have my hands on an air cooled Yamaha 570 2 stroke twin cylinder for a power plant.

Rated at 80-85hp.

Now we're talking! Is that a snowmobile engine?

I've been wanting a small motorcycle engine and trans for years to do a real hot rod tractor. One that will smoke the tires

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Oldskool
1 hour ago, wallfish said:

Now we're talking! Is that a snowmobile engine?

I've been wanting a small motorcycle engine and trans for years to do a real hot rod tractor. One that will smoke the tires

Yes it is a snowmobile engine.

Sounds like you need a Honda Goldwing engine. I'm pretty sure the older ones had chain drive. 1100cc of tire ripping wheel standing power. 

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Oldskool

Paid my mun to have my fun.

Got my name in the red again.

 

The cab back is clamped in place.

The lower valance is tacked together and the tailgate is half done. 

I dug around and found something to use for running boards.

Also ordered some trailer fenders to use for the rear fenders.

Getting close to having all the big panels done.

20230323_074844.jpg

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Pullstart
3 hours ago, wallfish said:

I've been wanting a small motorcycle engine and trans for years to do a real hot rod tractor.


I think you just solved my load transmission issues with the Snowmowtractor!  I have a ‘77 Suzuki GS550 engine and transmission.  I actually have the entire bike, in pieces.  13,000 rpm redline, 6 speed transmission.  Chain drive.  I bet even @Achto would 100% approve!

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Achto

Can't believe that I missed this thread. Looking very cool so far. B)

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Achto
17 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

 I bet even @Achto would 100% approve!

 

 Sounds like some minor design changes in your future. :D

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ebinmaine
38 minutes ago, Achto said:

Can't believe that I missed this thread. Looking very cool so far. B)

 

Please lemme help you climb out frummunda that 🪨🪨🪨

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Oldskool
10 hours ago, Achto said:

Can't believe that I missed this thread. Looking very cool so far. B)

Welcome aboard.

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Oldskool

 @Pullstart any thoughts on if it is possible to add pipe to a snowmobile exhaust beyond the muffler/expansion chamber without any ill effects.

I would like to extend it to the back of the buggy

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