Custom golf cart

[Handy Don 12,212]

1 hour ago, wallfish said:

Don't let @Handy Don ruin the inspiration with all of that fancy math and calculators he uses!

Point taken!

A stronger hydro would make it a sure thing.

By way of comparison, the Eaton 700 can deliver more power that that tuff-turf. The 1100 is good to ~17hp.

[wallfish 16,994]

34 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Point taken!

A stronger hydro would make it a sure thing.

By way of comparison, the Eaton 700 can deliver more power that that tuff-turf. The 1100 is good to ~17hp.

Just mess'n with ya again Don.

Taking the time to do that math in the beginning can definitely save some frustration in the end. 17hp would be enough

[Oldskool 6,643]

52 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Point taken!

A stronger hydro would make it a sure thing.

By way of comparison, the Eaton 700 can deliver more power that that tuff-turf. The 1100 is good to ~17hp.

Any input on this?

[19richie66 17,500]

If you run a “drive shaft” yoke off the flywheel side of a kohler twin to the Eaton 1100 drive pulley(transmission turned sideways, drive pulley removed and replaced with said driveshaft yoke) the you could use the axles to drive a front and rear axle. I guess you would have to lock the differential somehow. Also no clutch needed as it’s a hydro drive. 

Edited October 1, 2022 by 19richie66

[ebinmaine 67,420]

7 hours ago, 19richie66 said:

you would have to lock the differential somehow

I haven't been into an Eaton yet but on a Sundstrand Hydro that's easy enough just by flipping alternate diff pins.  

 

[19richie66 17,500]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I haven't been into an Eaton yet but on a Sundstrand Hydro that's easy enough just by flipping alternate diff pins.  

 

I believe the diffs are similar if not the same.

[Handy Don 12,212]

14 hours ago, Oldskool said:

Any input on this?

Hydro-Gear is quite hard to research.

This unit predates their current model line and has the "old" label layout and coding. I couldn't find specs, only parts diagrams.

The model is 157003. The other code seems to read Year 6 (2006?), Day 213, Product C1, SN 072 (for the day)

Pretty sure it was used in Simplicity lawn tractor units with 16-18 hp.

Can you send me a picture of the complete unit?

Edited October 1, 2022 by Handy Don

[Handy Don 12,212]

7 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I haven't been into an Eaton yet but on a Sundstrand Hydro that's easy enough just by flipping alternate diff pins.  

The Eaton pump/motors are a simple bolt-on to the transaxle. Not sure about the the output shaft specs but on the WHs its a simple gear that meshes with a big gear in the transaxle. 1100's Output RPM is 0-1750 with torque 360 ft. lbs. continuous (540 intermittent) vs. 217 on the tuff-turf. The higher RPM at the motor output really helps with the torque.

 

It'd be helpful to know the final drive ratio on the buggy's proposed rear end and the diameter of the tires you'd likely use so we can figure what range of RPM we need going into it.

Edited October 1, 2022 by Handy Don

[Oldskool 6,643]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

Hydro-Gear is quite hard to research.

This unit predates their current model line and has the "old" label layout and coding. I couldn't find specs, only parts diagrams.

The model is 157003. The other code seems to read Year 6 (2006?), Day 213, Product C1, SN 072 (for the day)

Pretty sure it was used in Simplicity lawn tractor units with 16-18 hp.

Can you send me a picture of the complete unit?

Not a good pic but how bout this?

[Oldskool 6,643]

48 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

 

It'd be helpful to know the final drive ratio on the buggy's proposed rear end and the diameter of the tires you'd likely use so we can figure what range of RPM we need going into it.

If memory serves me correctly the rear ratio is 3.73:1

The tires are 27in tall.

[cafoose 3,354]

How do I know what gear ratio my rear axle is?

Count the number of teeth on the pinion gear and count the number of teeth on the ring gear. Divide the ring gear teeth number by the number of teeth on the pinion. The result is your gear ratio.

 

 

[Handy Don 12,212]

20 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

Not a good pic but how bout this?

This perspective isn't much help in matching to illustrations but having an external filter and the extra hoses seems to indicate it had a separate charge pump and, possibly, had external hydraulics. This may be one of the larger units, some of which even had differential locks.

Probably this thing is embedded in something so good pics will be hard to come by, eh? 

[Handy Don 12,212]

20+ mph x (hidden math including rear end ratio and other stuff like pi) = 930 RPM input to the rear end

Edited October 1, 2022 by Handy Don

[Oldskool 6,643]

@Handy Don that rear is in a large Craftsman. It does have 5 lug hubs though. It would be hard getting better pics at the moment.  I was told it could be tapped into for remote hydraulics

[Oldskool 6,643]

58 minutes ago, cafoose said:

How do I know what gear ratio my rear axle is?

Count the number of teeth on the pinion gear and count the number of teeth on the ring gear. Divide the ring gear teeth number by the number of teeth on the pinion. The result is your gear ratio.

 

 

Luckily it still has the tag on the housing but I'm about 200miles from it at the moment 

[Handy Don 12,212]

It may be possible to get the transaxle data via the Sears site if you can get the tractor's model number. The largest Sears tractors were quite strong machines.

I found this one on eBay which looks pretty close...

[Handy Don 12,212]

Boy are you lucky. Via the eBay listing I found some threads on another forum and there found links to the Tech and Service manuals (assuming this is what you have). This is listed as an "HD" (heavy duty) transaxle.

Definitely has option for external hydraulics (1.5 gpm @ 500 psi) -- not as strong as the Eaton 1100 but still handy--with an open center control and 500psi pressure relief.

[Oldskool 6,643]

Thanks for the research @Handy Don . As you can tell I'm trying to use mostly what I have on hand. Non of it really seems to be the best for this application. If it wasn't for the fact of trying to build it with an automatic style clutch/transmission for the wife I would just go with the original thoughts of using the Saginaw 3 speed trans I have.

[ebinmaine 67,420]

18 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

If it wasn't for the fact of trying to build it with an automatic style clutch/transmission for the wife

Time for some clutch lessons Mike?

Nothing ever going to be easier to learn on as an off-road rig except maybe a heavy diesel truck. 

[Oldskool 6,643]

3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Time for some clutch lessons Mike?

Nothing ever going to be easier to learn on as an off-road rig except maybe a heavy diesel truck. 

I'm thinking you maybe correct.

There is one plus to the whole thing. The engine is governed so she can't over rev it or damage anything by running WOT in a low gear.

[ebinmaine 67,420]

3 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

I'm thinking you maybe correct.

There is one plus to the whole thing. The engine is governed so she can't over rev it or damage anything by running WOT in a low gear.

Are you going to have the capability of a set throttle position?

 

As you are well aware when you are driving a heavy diesel truck or a tractor you don't even touch the accelerator at all. Just slowly let out the clutch pedal..... And off you went..... 

[Handy Don 12,212]

25 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

Thanks for the research @Handy Don . As you can tell I'm trying to use mostly what I have on hand. Non of it really seems to be the best for this application. If it wasn't for the fact of trying to build it with an automatic style clutch/transmission for the wife I would just go with the original thoughts of using the Saginaw 3 speed trans I have.

 

Just now, Oldskool said:

I'm thinking you maybe correct.

There is one plus to the whole thing. The engine is governed so she can't over rev it or damage anything by running WOT in a low gear.

 

My sense of the Hydro-Gear is that it is borderline strong enough to do what you'd planned but that model had several different pump/motor builds with a range of torques and some are definitely underpowered. If you can find any other model numbers on it, we can be more certain.

[Oldskool 6,643]

34 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Are you going to have the capability of a set throttle position?

 

As you are well aware when you are driving a heavy diesel truck or a tractor you don't even touch the accelerator at all. Just slowly let out the clutch pedal..... And off you went..... 

Probably just a standard foot throttle.

Ya if shifting was that easy for her.

She doesn't even like shifting the Honda 4 wheeler. That's an auto clutch manual shift 5speed type trans.

[Oldskool 6,643]

28 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

 

 

My sense of the Hydro-Gear is that it is borderline strong enough to do what you'd planned but that model had several different pump/motor builds with a range of torques and some are definitely underpowered. If you can find any other model numbers on it, we can be more certain.

Without tearing into the tractor I couldnt see any other numbers on it. Its really hard to get a good look at it. 

[Oldskool 6,643]

Well enough idle time on this project.

I think it's time to blow the dust off things and get cracking.

 

I still haven't nailed down what I'm going to use for an engine or transmission.

 

What I have on hand for engines are several vert. shaft engines several hp ratings.

A OHV 16hp Kohler. Horizontal shaft

Transmissions: Saginaw 3 speed.

A 1930s Pontiac standard.

A Wheel Horse standard hi/lo.