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TJ5208

Exhaust removal

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TJ5208

Wanting to know how to take out this exhuast I have tried different things but can't get it out

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peter lena

@TJ salyers  got a piece of solid round stock that would snug in there ? with internal wall support on that stub , a  24" pipe wrench with oil soaking thread area , will probably walk that right out . use pipe wrench tight to base , use a 3 lb  hammer  , on the center  back  area of  of wrench , one solid hit , with no hammer bounce , will move it , pete

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oldlineman

You could also use a hacksaw blade and CAREFULLY split the pipe being careful not to cut the block threads and collapse the pipe nipple with a small chisel and small hammer, being careful of the cast iron block. Patiences will be your friend! Bob 

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lynnmor

Run a hacksaw blade in and out till you just start to touch the threads, that will weaken the pipe so that it collapses a bit.

 

oldlineman was quicker on the trigger.

Edited by lynnmor
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8ntruck

If you do cut the pipe, make sure the hacksaw teeth rake the metal chips out of the engine.  Maybe some grease on the hacksaw blade to make the chips stick to it would be a good idea, too.

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stevasaurus

Cut the nipple off straight, leaving about 1/2" sticking out.  Take a cold chisel and a 2 lb ball peen hammer, place chisel perpendicular to engine and tap firmly with hammer.  The nipple will cave in easily and you can turn out with a pair of pliers without ruining threads.  Use new nipple to chase threads...turn in and then back out a little at a time (like it was a tap).  :occasion-xmas:

 

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Jeff-C175
28 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

If you do cut the pipe, make sure the hacksaw teeth rake the metal chips out of the engine.  Maybe some grease on the hacksaw blade to make the chips stick to it would be a good idea, too.

 

A shop vac might work too.  Have it sucking the chips out as you cut.

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Snoopy11

Is that... steel?

 

I'd be welding on it in a heartbeat... LOL

 

image.jpeg.2af8d645269735c5faf29ce72481fcf1.jpeg

 

Don

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TJ5208

Yes it is galvanized steel pipe

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TJ5208

Or it was

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Snoopy11

Yeah, if all else fails, I would weld in a bolt, or a BIG OLE NUT on the threaded pipe, so I could get a socket on it... maybe even some other type of device to get the thing turned out... rather than all the cutting.

 

But... that's just me...

 

Don

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Jeff-C175
39 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

ball peen hammer

 

All six of them are the most used tools in my box (oops, actually on the wall now!)  All different sizes...  two of them are well over 100 years old.  One from a railroad, late 1800s, one from WW I, govt issue.

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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stevasaurus

TJ, you could put a chisel on it the way it is and have it out in 1 1/2 minutes.  Really easy and the best way to do it.  :occasion-xmas:

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Snoopy11
Just now, stevasaurus said:

TJ, you could put a chisel on it the way it is and have it out in 1 1/2 minutes.  Really easy and the best way to do it.  :occasion-xmas:

Oh yes, not arguing with you, Steve, I did see your comment above... 

 

I just gave input, in case the chisel idea did not work... (I would not cut anything... that close to the engine... for fear of metal shavings... but that is just me...:thumbs:

 

Don

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AMC RULES

:text-yeahthat:

 

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stevasaurus

The thing about those nipples, they are usually so thin that a pipe wrench can collapse the metal and rip it and still leave the threads in the engine.  When you use the hammer and chisel method, you collapse the threads in the engine enough that they break loose and turn right out.  :occasion-xmas:

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JimSraj

I’d be soaking the threads with a good penetrating oil a number of times a day for a few days to start no matter which of the suggested methods you try. There is a tool called an internal pipe wrench too. Good luck. 

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adsm08

Well, this doesn't help a lot now since you have it all hacked to bits, but I usually start by melting some anti-sieze into the threads with butane or propane, then I TIGHTEN it an 1/8th of a turn or so.

 

Then I back it out, usually without much of a fight.

Edited by adsm08

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