Advice on 312-A Eaton 700 Trans.

[davem1111 2,030]

I have a 312-A (1987?) that I've been using pretty regularly for about 5 years for mowing and light hauling, and a bit of gravel and snow scraping with a front blade.  This past summer it started leaking oil below the rear axle, but I did not determine from where.  I didn't realize that the plastic reservoir was for the pump and the dipstick was for the transaxle, which are two separate systems, right?  I put some in the reservoir now and then, and wondered why the dipstick level didn't change from about 1/2 in the marked zone. I'm guessing that part isn't an immediate problem.  

 

Yesterday though, it started slipping in both forward and reverse. I.e., it would start to go (with some humming/buzzing noises), then would stop moving.  If I pulled the handle back it might start to go again, or pulling back into reverse it would go in reverse then stop going backward.  I basically had to do a forward/backward thing again and again to get it into the garage. It does not roll forward or backward when not running, as I've seen that question asked as part of the troubleshooting.  

 

I've got the seat, rear fender, brackets, etc. off and have cleaned off a lot of the crud on it. Still don't see where the oil leak is from and guess I should figure that out. I have temporarily repurposed the oil reservoir as a "mini gas tank" so I can run the tractor if I want to try anything. 

 

In the meantime I've been looking at parts, and I've found another rear trans w/axle within driving distance, for around $250 if I pick it up. It doesn't appear to be an exact match - it has an oil filter where mine just has the reservoir. (Says "OEM Toro COMPLETE HYDRO TRANSMISSION 108368 108369 - Fits Wheel Horse C-81 C-85 C-105 C-125 C-145 C-165 C-175 310-8 312-8 314-8 314-A 416-8 417-A GT-1142 GT-1100 GT-1642 GT-1600 GT-1848 GT-1800" ). Otherwise it *looks* the same. As is - no warranty.  I have also found just the hydraulic pump for about $250, too far away to drive for and the shipping will probably be at least $50 on that, but it does have a 30-day return policy. 

 

Wondering what the experts here think - should I get the whole axle, the hydraulic pump, or get both while the are available?  Try to rebuild the one I have? 

 

I'd like to keep this tractor going as long as I can, and clean it up (not a full restoration, but I may want to repaint what needs painting, etc.).  I replaced the steering column bushing, deck rollers and blades, and all lighting recently. Engine runs strong and starts right up.  

 

Thanks, -Dave

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

Pump is most likely bad. 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,235]

2 hours ago, davem1111 said:

Wondering what the experts here think

Hmmm. Experts?    For the most part we are just folks with experience that we're willing to share.

 

The usage you describe is well within the normal capabilities of the Eaton 700.

 

You must find the source of the leak to have full information for making a decision to save this pump/motor.

 

I don't understand " I have temporarily repurposed the oil reservoir as a "mini gas tank" so I can run the tractor if I want to try anything".  This component MUST be left attached to the transmission pump/motor assembly. It is an expansion tank that holds the oil that expands out of the pump/motor when it gets hot. If it was not properly connected before, that could be the source of the leakage and it may have allowed contaminants into the pump/motor (contaminants are a serious problem). When the transmission is cold, the reservoir should show about ⅓ full.  If you filled it at that point, then when the oil heated up it simply overflowed the reservoir and that could also be your "leak". 

 

The transmission's ill behavior is a bad sign--likely causes are low or contaminated oil that permitted excess wear of pump/motor components. These operate at extremely close tolerances.

 

Now, on to your options:

- A used 700 pump motor. The 700 remains practical for your level of usage (unless the blade work requires a lot of power). It is a pretty straightforward swap if you have decent tools and some mechanical proficiency once you remove the fuel tank and seat supports. The 30-day return does require removing it again and a second shipping cost, so its not free. Frankly, $250 seems very high for just a 700 pump/motor, though.

 

- A used 1100 transaxle. Firstly, the 1100 is a much stronger transmission used with engines up to 20hp. It is more than adequate for your described usage. It is, however, a more involved and complicated swap since it affects the drive belt, brakes, wheels, and hydraulic plumbing plus its connection to the motion control is different. You'd be taking essentially all of the rear end of the tractor apart and then reassembling it. And an 1100/transaxle is heavy--well over 100 lbs. Also, the value of the unit on offer depends a great deal on how it's been treated and how complete it is because there are parts used by an 1100 that aren't on 700 so you won't have them from your tractor if they are missing. These are primarily an oil filter, its mount and plumbing, and the plumbing for a hydraulic lift.  If it comes with the filter holder already mounted, and all the plumbing but you are not going to use the hydraulic lift capability, then you will also need to acquire and install a non-standard piece of hydraulic hose or tubing to connect the charge pump output to the filter inlet.

 

Lots to think about.

 

 

Edited October 19, 2021 by Handy Don

[Snoopy11 5,714]

2 hours ago, davem1111 said:

Wondering what the experts here think

@stevasaurus might very well be the closest thing to a transmission expert here...

 

Nice to have intelligent moderators around here...

 

Don

[davem1111 2,030]

13 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Hmmm. Experts?    For the most part we are just folks with experience that we're willing to share.

 

Well, to me, that's what an expert is. 

 

13 hours ago, Handy Don said:

The usage you describe is well within the normal capabilities of the Eaton 700.

 

You must find the source of the leak to have full information for making a decision to save this pump/motor.

 

Now that I've taken the wheel off and cleared a lot of greasy crud, I can see that the plastic reverse-threaded plug on the bottom of the pump was leaking.  I tightened it gently and it may have stopped, will check again later. Might not matter now if the pump is shot though.

 

13 hours ago, Handy Don said:

I don't understand " I have temporarily repurposed the oil reservoir as a "mini gas tank" so I can run the tractor if I want to try anything".  This component MUST be left attached to the transmission pump/motor assembly. It is an expansion tank that holds the oil that expands out of the pump/motor when it gets hot. If it was not properly connected before, that could be the source of the leakage and it may have allowed contaminants into the pump/motor (contaminants are a serious problem). When the transmission is cold, the reservoir should show about ⅓ full.  If you filled it at that point, then when the oil heated up it simply overflowed the reservoir and that could also be your "leak". 

 

So, I had removed the fender & gas tank, and the oil reservoir. Then I thought, what if I want to run the engine a bit at some point to see what happens?  No gas tank.... hmmm... oil reservoir has the same size tube fitting...   I may have wrongly assumed that not having the reservoir on there for a minute or two (because I was using it as a temporary gas tank  ) would be okay.  If I put the reservoir back on and the pump is no longer leaking from the bottom, and the reservoir stays full, is it safe to assume that the pump has the proper amount of oil in it?   Should I completely drain and refill it to be sure?  

 

13 hours ago, Handy Don said:

The transmission's ill behavior is a bad sign--likely causes are low or contaminated oil that permitted excess wear of pump/motor components. These operate at extremely close tolerances.

 

After dealing with the pump oil and reservoir as mentioned above, if it is still slipping, then I probably need to replace the pump, right?

 

13 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Now, on to your options:

- A used 700 pump motor. The 700 remains practical for your level of usage (unless the blade work requires a lot of power). It is a pretty straightforward swap if you have decent tools and some mechanical proficiency once you remove the fuel tank and seat supports. The 30-day return does require removing it again and a second shipping cost, so its not free. Frankly, $250 seems very high for just a 700 pump/motor, though.

 

I thought the 700 was "enough" but maybe not.  I'm liking your next suggestion:

 

13 hours ago, Handy Don said:

- A used 1100 transaxle. Firstly, the 1100 is a much stronger transmission used with engines up to 20hp. It is more than adequate for your described usage. It is, however, a more involved and complicated swap since it affects the drive belt, brakes, wheels, and hydraulic plumbing plus its connection to the motion control is different. You'd be taking essentially all of the rear end of the tractor apart and then reassembling it. And an 1100/transaxle is heavy--well over 100 lbs. Also, the value of the unit on offer depends a great deal on how it's been treated and how complete it is because there are parts used by an 1100 that aren't on 700 so you won't have them from your tractor if they are missing. These are primarily an oil filter, its mount and plumbing, and the plumbing for a hydraulic lift.  If it comes with the filter holder already mounted, and all the plumbing but you are not going to use the hydraulic lift capability, then you will also need to acquire and install a non-standard piece of hydraulic hose or tubing to connect the charge pump output to the filter inlet.

 

Is this one I'm looking at an 1100?  It has an oil filter.

 

 

Again, this is what the seller is calling it:   "OEM Toro COMPLETE HYDRO TRANSMISSION 108368 108369 fit Work Horse D1-184801 1848"

If this will fit my tractor and is an upgrade (assuming it is in good working condition), then I'm leaning toward getting this (and repainting it in red, of course  ).    Should I ask the seller for the numbers off the pump itself?  I am assuming that the part just inside the pulley is for external hydraulics - do you know if that is a problem if *not* hooked to something?   Can I retrofit my 312-A with a hydraulic lift?

 

BTW, I've been looking at this forum for a while, since I got the tractor and started having repair/maintenance questions.  Thank you for all the useful info.  Hoping I can return the favor somehow.  I actually have more experience working on bigger tractors, like Ford 8n/9n/Jubilee, 6000 diesel or John Deere 1070 diesel.  And a lot of motorcycles, cars & trucks.  

 

[Handy Don 12,235]

Lots of questions here! 

 

On the current 700:

- I can't tell from a distance so it's on you to decide: Did that loose connection or when you had the reservoir off let the 700 run without enough oil due to leakage for a long time or did it permit contaminants to enter?  There is no practical way to change the oil in a 700 except by removing it from the tractor--it was intended as a lifetime closed system.

 

- One potential diagnostic: If the system is back together enough, fill the 700 via the reservoir up to having the oil just come into the bottom of the reservoir (you may have to do this a second time after running the pump/motor briefly to be sure any trapped air in there has a chance to come out). Run the tractor enough to get the pump/motor really warm (idling will not do it, it has to have a load). The oil should rise in the reservoir due to expansion up to maybe ½ or ⅔ of the tank. First, observe its performance. Second, immediately swab out a sample of the oil from the reservoir and spread it on a clean piece of white paper. You are looking for metal particles or other debris which indicates excess internal wear. If performance is now OK and no particles or debris in the oil, no need to go further, keep the 700.

 

On the 1100:

- Yes, that is an 1100. It is black because it was in a Wheel Horse "economy line" Work Horse (I'm not at all familiar with those tractors, but other members are). From what I recall, the transaxles and pump/motor were the same across both lines--I don't know if Work Horses used hydraulic lifts but I would assume yes given that they had the 1100.

- I'd want the info on the pump's ID plate (1100's had a number of models over the years with some nice improvements). The oil filter and mount are there as is at least some of the critical plumbing (not sure about that piece of fuel line next to the bottom of the dipstick tube ). Also, at least from here it seems like the axle oil seals are not leaking. The tube for the rear lift cable is there but without its clamp.

- What you cannot see, and is to me important, is the condition of the oil. In an 1100, the oil does three things: it bathes the transaxle gears and differential, it flows through the motion pump/motor, and it circulates out to the hydraulic lift cylinder. The transaxle can stand some abuse, but the hydro pump/motor is sensitive to rust or other contamination. It becomes a question of provenance of the unit and trust in the seller--especially if you cannot examine it first hand. Some questions I'd ask:

• How many hours on this unit? How was it used and stored while part of the tractor?
• How long has this unit had its filter input line disconnected? When the charge pump output plugged? How was it stored since being removed (has moisture had a chance to enter?

- Yes, the section just inside the drive pulley is the charge pump (up to 700psi at 1.3 gpm, requires external pressure relief--WH control valves used with this pump had built in pressure relief).

- Yes, an 1100 can work with or without an external hydraulic lift with the right plumbing connections.

- Yes, you could retrofit your tractor with a hydraulic lift, but it is not a trivial exercise--it goes to the very center of a 300-series tractor's assembly (I posted some of the issues in a different context in this thread).

Edited October 19, 2021 by Handy Don

[stevasaurus 22,764]

My expertise is only with the Wheel Horse manual transmissions.  We have the manual for the Eaton 700 in the manuals section...if that helps.  

[davem1111 2,030]

6 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

My expertise is only with the Wheel Horse manual transmissions.  We have the manual for the Eaton 700 in the manuals section...if that helps.  

 

Found some very useful manuals there - thanks a bunch! 

 

I'm going to put the reservoir back on and as soon as I buy some 30 weight oil, refill and try this baby one more time.

 

However, I'm thinking that even if it appears to work fine again, I'm going to pick up that 1100 tranny anyway, clean it up and repaint it so I have it on hand. Now I'm getting inspired to really clean this tractor up, repaint and get some new rubber on it. 

[Handy Don 12,235]

1 minute ago, davem1111 said:

 

Found some very useful manuals there - thanks a bunch! 

 

I'm going to put the reservoir back on and as soon as I buy some 30 weight oil, refill and try this baby one more time.

 

However, I'm thinking that even if it appears to work fine again, I'm going to pick up that 1100 tranny anyway, clean it up and repaint it so I have it on hand. Now I'm getting inspired to really clean this tractor up, repaint and get some new rubber on it. 

Why not just get it a brother or sister, say a 314-H? Get the hydraulic and an 1100. Keep the 312-A (which I suspect might surprise you and come back to life) as stablemate.

[davem1111 2,030]

33 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Why not just get it a brother or sister, say a 314-H? Get the hydraulic and an 1100. Keep the 312-A (which I suspect might surprise you and come back to life) as stablemate.

 

Now that you mention it, I sure wouldn't mind having a stablemate for the 312-A.  Unless it was quite a "project" though, I doubt it's in my budget right now.  I do keep my eyes open as I drive around - sadly as I'm sure you know there are lots of these rusting away in people's back yards. Maybe I'll get lucky and find one that needs a good home.  Will probably need to do some fast talking with the wife though, and get rid of some other stuff in the garage to make room.

[Handy Don 12,235]

10 minutes ago, davem1111 said:

some fast talking

Offer to make it hers, and mean it. Color, attachments, etc.

[kpinnc 12,088]

Just my opinion...

 

Anytime you buy a used hydro, it's a game of chance. Even a test drive requires 30 mins to allow the fluid to warm up. And if you have to open a pump (transmission), one grain of dirt can quickly destroy it.

 

So- the 700 is easiest and safest IF it is in good shape. BTW, they cost about $800-1200 new back when they were produced. $250 is alot, but the warranty is definitely something to consider. Since it has an enclosed system that can't be contaminated by the trans oil, it is a safer option to swap out.

 

That being said, the 1100 Eaton is hands down a far better system. The fact that the one in the pic is missing the bolts on top is a concern, because it shares the oil from the gearbox, and is likely now contaminated. It might be great for several hours of operation, or may be good for years. Again, it's a gamble.

 

Also, the leak on the bottom of the tranny is likely a weeping axle seal. 

Edited October 20, 2021 by kpinnc

[Handy Don 12,235]

11 hours ago, kpinnc said:

the one in the pic is missing the bolts on top is a concern

Nice catch, @kpinnc. I didn't notice those. I was focussed on seeing if the hoses were intact.

 

 

I should also add, that $250 might buy a parts tractor where the engine or other parts are missing/damaged but the Eaton 1100 is "unopened". That's how I got mine--a PO took the engine to replace one blown in a puller tractor, sold off some of the other parts and I bought the rest as a "roller". Knowing the hours, usage, and maintenance history plus having the complete hydro system still sealed made it less risk for me as a purchaser.

[kpinnc 12,088]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Nice catch, @kpinnc. I didn't notice those. I was focussed on seeing if the hoses were intact.

 

Don I wouldn't have looked if you didn't mention the cable tube holder was missing. Credit for that one is all yours sir. 

[davem1111 2,030]

22 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Nice catch, @kpinnc. I didn't notice those. I was focussed on seeing if the hoses were intact.

 

I should also add, that $250 might buy a parts tractor where the engine or other parts are missing/damaged but the Eaton 1100 is "unopened". That's how I got mine--a PO took the engine to replace one blown in a puller tractor, sold off some of the other parts and I bought the rest as a "roller". Knowing the hours, usage, and maintenance history plus having the complete hydro system still sealed made it less risk for me as a purchaser.

 

Wish I had seen this about those bolt holes - didn't realize they were open right into the axle. Sheesh.  I've been scraping and brushing crud and dirt all over that. No idea how much went down in there. At least I don't think any of it was anything "hard" but still not good. Am I likely to be looking at a complete teardown of that axle to drain it and put fresh oil in it?

 

That brings me back to another question:  Are the casings for the hydraulic pump and the axle completely isolated from each other?  Or does oil go down from the hydraulic pump into the axle, and the dipstick indicates the proper level for both?   My impression is the opposite, that they are isolated, and the dipstick is only for the axle.   If that is the case then how does one know if the hydraulic pump has the proper amount of oil in it - is it assumed that if there is any oil in the reservoir, that the pump is full?  Someone mentioned it possibly having air in it.

 

One reason for these questions is that last night I put the reservoir back on, rigged up the gas tank on a cart, and with the tractor jacked up and right wheel off I ran it for a while. When I push the stick forward, the wheels turn (or at least, one does). If I hold one wheel/axle end still, the other one turns. Can't tell if it's turning as fast as it should. If I try to hold *both*, it fights my resistance and wins, but again, not sure if it's got full power.  I had about 1" of oil in the reservoir and the level never changed, up or down.

 

I'm thinking I'll just need to put it back together and run it around to see what happens. But in the meantime I'm probably buying the 1100 tranny, and also looking at a 416-8 that I might be able to pick up for around $300. 

 

Oh, and I realized recently that I was finding pieces of my PTO clutch plate on the ground in the yard.   Guess I need to replace that too.

 

Thanks for all the help! Will post follow-up and maybe some pics.

[Handy Don 12,235]

6 minutes ago, davem1111 said:

 

I've been scraping and brushing crud and dirt all over that. 

 

Are the casings for the hydraulic pump and the axle completely isolated from each other?  

How does one know if the hydraulic pump has the proper amount of oil in it - is it assumed that if there is any oil in the reservoir, that the pump is full?  Someone mentioned it possibly having air in it.

 

I'm thinking I'll just need to put it back together and run it around to see what happens. But in the meantime I'm probably buying the 1100 tranny, and also looking at a 416-8 that I might be able to pick up for around $300. 

 

Oh, and I realized recently that I was finding pieces of my PTO clutch plate on the ground in the yard.   Guess I need to replace that too.

 

Thanks for all the help! Will post follow-up and maybe some pics.

Ok, on the subjects of oil and casings....

On the the 700 pump/motor and the transaxle do not share oil. 700 is self-contained with Reservoir as the access/level-if you cannot see oil in the reservoir, the level is too low and there might be air in the pump. A few minutes running when there is oil in the reservoir will permit air to escape.

Dipstick is for the transaxle only. (1100 shares oil, as noted earlier.)

 

On crud scraping...

Could be worse, since you've likely introduced crap into ONLY your transaxle by leaving those holes open (though I still worry about when you had the reservoir off the 700). A transaxle teardown probably isn't necessary, but do plan on changing that oil soon following the instructions in the owner manual. Ideally, you'd give it a flush with a quart or two of diesel before filling with new oil. There are several entertaining threads discussing how to fill the transaxle through that narrow dipstick tube -- you can search and read!

 

On testing...

Jacking the rear to test the hydro is ideal for "is it alive" testing and for adjusting the motion control so that neutral on the lever is neutral on the hydro. It is NOT adequate for putting enough load on the hydro to really warm it up or to see if its speed and power are correct. Driving around for several minutes (seat time!) will warm it up and let you check for speed in both directions. As for power, WH suggests putting the front wheels against an immovable object and then gently putting motion control into forward--one or both wheels should spin even on a dry surface.

 

FWIW, to me an 1100 into the 312 makes sense for motion if the 700 is really dead, the tractor is otherwise in great shape, and the cost of the new transaxle is comfortable ($250 being out of my comfort range).

 

The 416-8 is a nice machine. Understand that some years had a one-cylinder Kohler and others had a two-cylinder Onan -- look closely if this matters to you. Onan vs. Kohler is a busy topic on the forum !

[davem1111 2,030]

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

[...]

The 416-8 is a nice machine. Understand that some years had a one-cylinder Kohler and others had a two-cylinder Onan -- look closely if this matters to you. Onan vs. Kohler is a busy topic on the forum !

 

This one is a two-cylinder Onan.  The owner sent me a video with sounds of the engine starting and running - sounds good.  Tractor needs some TLC, deck needs some welding, etc. but I'm not worried about that. The guy wants $350 for tractor and deck, I'm thinking that sounds like a good deal. Thoughts?

 

[Handy Don 12,235]

I'm assuming cosmetics are not good, and the deck is not adding any real value hence the lower price. How many hours? At at 500 or less, this is either a steal or a trap, 700 or less this is a good price. At 1000+ its fair with caveats (you'll want to be into the engine to test compression, de-carbon, check valve clearances and wear, and give the carb a good clean). No hour meter=serious skepticism.

Be nosey.

Listen CLOSELY to the engine for knocks, clatter, any feeling that something is not fully tight inside. You've worked on machines, so you know what I mean.

CHECK that the transmission oil shows only normal color and smell (check the dipstick--milky or foam mean water's been in there--deduction)

CHECK the engine oil for same (milky or foam--deduction)

Find out when the engine and trans filters we're last changed. (can't remember or more than 3 years--deduction)

Look for leaks on engine, lift cylinder, tubing and hoses, and transaxle (especially where the axles emerge into the wheels)--each of these can be repaired, but with time and $ for parts.

TEST the power with the tractor vs. immovable object test I outlined earlier (or get a video of it)

Recognize that any significant repairs are going to add to your costs on top of the expense of the usual fluids, filters, fuel line, etc. stuff.

Edited October 21, 2021 by Handy Don

[davem1111 2,030]

On 10/21/2021 at 4:10 PM, Handy Don said:

I'm assuming cosmetics are not good, and the deck is not adding any real value hence the lower price. How many hours? At at 500 or less, this is either a steal or a trap, 700 or less this is a good price. At 1000+ its fair with caveats (you'll want to be into the engine to test compression, de-carbon, check valve clearances and wear, and give the carb a good clean). No hour meter=serious skepticism.

Be nosey.

Listen CLOSELY to the engine for knocks, clatter, any feeling that something is not fully tight inside. You've worked on machines, so you know what I mean.

CHECK that the transmission oil shows only normal color and smell (check the dipstick--milky or foam mean water's been in there--deduction)

CHECK the engine oil for same (milky or foam--deduction)

Find out when the engine and trans filters we're last changed. (can't remember or more than 3 years--deduction)

Look for leaks on engine, lift cylinder, tubing and hoses, and transaxle (especially where the axles emerge into the wheels)--each of these can be repaired, but with time and $ for parts.

TEST the power with the tractor vs. immovable object test I outlined earlier (or get a video of it)

Recognize that any significant repairs are going to add to your costs on top of the expense of the usual fluids, filters, fuel line, etc. stuff.

 

I bought the 416-8 Friday.  I didn't check compression, but it runs and sounds good.  Oil badly needs changing, which I'll probably do tonight or tomorrow before I run it any more.  Trans oil looks a little milky - do these non-hydros use 90w?  (I've got the manual so I will look it up, but thought it couldn't hurt to ask to see of there were varying opinions on that).  It has good rubber and wheels, almost all body parts are present, if a bit rusty but not un-repairable.  Steering a little stiff, but useable.  I checked that steering "fan" gear and everything looks okay at first glance.  Going to pop my 48" deck on here soon and see how that goes. Deck that came with it needs some welding done on it, belts, etc.  I'm pretty happy for the price, even if I spend a few hundred on parts, oils, paint,  it should turn out pretty nice. Will post some pictures soon.

[Handy Don 12,235]

1 hour ago, davem1111 said:

 

I bought the 416-8 Friday.  I didn't check compression, but it runs and sounds good.  Oil badly needs changing, which I'll probably do tonight or tomorrow before I run it any more.  Trans oil looks a little milky - do these non-hydros use 90w?  (I've got the manual so I will look it up, but thought it couldn't hurt to ask to see of there were varying opinions on that).  It has good rubber and wheels, almost all body parts are present, if a bit rusty but not un-repairable.  Steering a little stiff, but useable.  I checked that steering "fan" gear and everything looks okay at first glance.  Going to pop my 48" deck on here soon and see how that goes. Deck that came with it needs some welding done on it, belts, etc.  I'm pretty happy for the price, even if I spend a few hundred on parts, oils, paint,  it should turn out pretty nice. Will post some pictures soon.

Congrats. Manual is helpful. I run Mobil One 10W30 in the engine and 80W-90 in the transaxle. Hydros can safely use a variety of fluids, as the manual will note. 

Edited October 24, 2021 by Handy Don

[davem1111 2,030]

8 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Congrats. Manual is helpful. I run Mobil One 10W30 in the engine and 80W-90 in the transaxle. Hydros can safely use a variety of fluids, as the manual will note. 

 

Hmmm.... I just put straight conventional 30 weight oil in the engine.  Is that a bad idea? Trying to find what weight the manual calls for but haven't found that part yet.

[Handy Don 12,235]

20 minutes ago, davem1111 said:

 

Hmmm.... I just put straight conventional 30 weight oil in the engine.  Is that a bad idea? Trying to find what weight the manual calls for but haven't found that part yet.

Probably the closest this forum gets to "hot topics" are lubricants, fuel additives, and paint colors.

To me, I fully accept that are multiple correct answers to all three issues!

A complicating factor is that the manuals for these engines were ALL written before ethanol was added to gasoline and without knowledge of either the advances in lubricants caused by the way modern internal combustion engines work or of the materials used to make them.

You are not wrong with a good quality 30W oil unless you store and plan to use your engine in temperatures at or below 40º. Then a multi-weight like 10W-30 might cause less wear and tear on the engine.

Experts here are likely to add my simplistic view! 

[davem1111 2,030]

12 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Probably the closest this forum gets to "hot topics" are lubricants, fuel additives, and paint colors.

To me, I fully accept that are multiple correct answers to all three issues!

A complicating factor is that the manuals for these engines were ALL written before ethanol was added to gasoline and without knowledge of either the advances in lubricants caused by the way modern internal combustion engines work or of the materials used to make them.

You are not wrong with a good quality 30W oil unless you store and plan to use your engine in temperatures at or below 40º. Then a multi-weight like 10W-30 might cause less wear and tear on the engine.

Experts here are likely to add my simplistic view! 

 

I think that makes sense, and I'll probably change it to 10w-30 before we get into the depths of winter here, if I'm going to use it during the winter.  I think I'd rather use the 416-8 for snow plowing than the 312-A, especially with a questionable hydrostatic.  It seems to be "working" again but I haven't had time yet to fully warm up and test it.  Anyway, starting to get off topic in this thread, so I'll go elsewhere for questions/discussions about all the other stuff.   Thanks!