The C-141D Force Horse Build

[Pullstart 62,917]

Good to see you back at it Max!  Question.  Is there a hole anywhere in the block that you can add a vacuum actuated fuel pump?  Then you wouldn’t need gravity to help you out..

 

 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

4 hours ago, Pullstart said:

Good to see you back at it Max!  Question.  Is there a hole anywhere in the block that you can add a vacuum actuated fuel pump?  Then you wouldn’t need gravity to help you out..

 

 

 

Me too!

Great tip, but there are two problems. 

1) diesels are known to make barely any vacuum, that is why most diesel in cars or trucks have vacuum pumps.

2) Don't have an other location to move the fuel tank too, I think the current location will work well after modified the brackets. But we will see how things evolve.  

 

That does look like a strong and well built vacuum pump, I think I will be able to use that on a other project

[Pullstart 62,917]

I do believe, they still have crankcase vacuum which is where you’d place a port.  Just the cylinder going up and down displaces a lot of air under the piston and in the crankcase.  That’s where this vacuum is referenced 

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

You could also use something like this

 

https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/hep-02a-universele-auto-12v-brandstofpomp-inline-lagedruk-elektrische-brandstofpomp/9300000001556485/

 

Pretty cheap and should work well

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

The hood was coming in contact with the engine so I wanted to change the angle between the front and the top part of the hood. Before I knew it, it was in two pieces.

 

Found a pretty rusted section, something I wouldn't have noticed in a 'normal restauration' 

Does make it easier to get all the dents out and now it will fit in the sand-blast cabinet

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

Went on raising the hood in the front about 5"

 

I was afraid of the result, but I thinks it came out  decent. 

Would you have done it different?

 

 

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Looks pretty good, could use some details to break it up a bit.

 

[ebinmaine 67,671]

4 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said:

done it different

 

4 hours ago, sjoemie himself said:

Looks pretty good, could use some details to break it up a bit.

 

 

 

 

Maybe cut a slot or two in it?

 

 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

Still tinkering what I am going to do with the front hood bracket 

 

I went on, raising the steering wheel. 

I had to cut the steeringwheelshaft anyway so I did it while still in the tractor. That way I could use the vise to get the steering wheel off. 

It went off with a breeze!

 

I am using all recycled materials

 

 

I had 3 different pieces so I was scared about it not ending up all strait, used the vise and a yardstick. welding it in the vise so it wouldn't warp. 

 

Came out as strait as can be!  I was surprised as well

 

and the fitment came out great too! 

 

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Steering shaft came out good 

 

Maybe for the front you could make somekind of front weight like Schlüter had on their tractors.

 

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/16cAAOSwj7hgjp9A/$_35.JPG

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

20 minutes ago, sjoemie himself said:

Steering shaft came out good 

 

Maybe for the front you could make somekind of front weight like Schlüter had on their tractors.

 

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/16cAAOSwj7hgjp9A/$_35.JPG

That is a very interesting idea. heel erg bedankt! would make it very easy to take extra weights on and off. I would love some extra weight in the front from time to time, but want to be gentle on the front spindels when I don't need the weight because, the engine itself is twice as heavy as a kohler.

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

You're welcome. Regarding the weight I didn't account for the weight of your engine.

You could make the frontweights out of wood to save your spindles 

[19richie66 17,508]

What if you made a winch mount/box that would also be your hood stand? (Where your spacer box is now) The winch would be mounted directly below the front of the hood to the frame for strength and place your battery in a box that is held in the Attachamatic bracket below it. 

[peter lena 8,639]

@Maxwell-8  as you go about your build , take obvious advantage  of eliminating a problem , your steering shaft is a perfect spot for a  2 or 4 bolt  flanged bearing , that will also add strength to that  weak area . while you are at it you might use bolt on ELECTRICAL LUGS  as a washer to always have a ground point , like this ,https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Dual-Lug-Al-1-0-14-STD-2- , only a reference to type and design , your source and price is different . as i look at your build up , look at what i would do in a similar spot. make solid gains or eliminate a problem area , why not ?  you are at your own design state build , cable wrap your wiring , no chafing or tight bends , verify  every function , and move on , good luck  , pete 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

4 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Maxwell-8  as you go about your build , take obvious advantage  of eliminating a problem , your steering shaft is a perfect spot for a  2 or 4 bolt  flanged bearing , that will also add strength to that  weak area . while you are at it you might use bolt on ELECTRICAL LUGS  as a washer to always have a ground point , like this ,https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Dual-Lug-Al-1-0-14-STD-2- , only a reference to type and design , your source and price is different . as i look at your build up , look at what i would do in a similar spot. make solid gains or eliminate a problem area , why not ?  you are at your own design state build , cable wrap your wiring , no chafing or tight bends , verify  every function , and move on , good luck  , pete 

I will be having central spots true out the tractor  for grounds and power.  I am now in the fabrication stadium, then everything will be striped, sandblasted and painted. I am then going to do a full custom rewire, with 120A connectors in the front and rear for accessories.  

5 hours ago, 19richie66 said:

What if you made a winch mount/box that would also be your hood stand? (Where your spacer box is now) The winch would be mounted directly below the front of the hood to the frame for strength and place your battery in a box that is held in the Attachamatic bracket below it. 

I already have a 470CCA battery for the big diesel, Wasn't sure a U1 would be up for the task.  It will still be mounted in the original location.

Now that I have a  52Ah battery that has plenty of power to run a winch. So I am steering towards installing a winch under the hood. 

 

[Snoopy11 5,714]

2 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

winch under the hood

Have I told you how much I LOVE that idea....

 

Don

[peter lena 8,639]

@Maxwell-8  glad to see you are on your way , feel free with those ideas , make it  a solid runner , pete

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

Just ordered the winch.

3000lbs is enough, don't think I will ever be over 1000lbs, and I can always use a ****** block for pulling out other things.

And this one fitted just in between the hood and the frame.

It's going to be one of the very few Chinese made parts on this build.

Payed 80$ which is a steal, most stores ask at least double. Didn't want to spend $xxx for a small winch, I only going to use a few times. 

Went with the one that had thicker steel cable (7/32"), heck for those few dollars, and the other one was 4 months on backorder

 

Specs: 

(Ratio 153:1; power: 1KW / 1.34CV (12v); cable: 5.5mm x 9.2m; Dimensions 32x13x11cm)

 

 

Powerusages

Load	Kilo	0	454	907	1361
Speed	m/min	3.2	2.3	1,3	0,7
Power	Amp	10	40	90	145

 

 

 

 

 

Are there any things I have to know about this winches? Lookouts, maintenance, possible problems, improvements ? 

The wires do look thin for a 145 amp device

[Snoopy11 5,714]

9 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

Are there any things I have to know about this winches? Lookouts, maintenance, possible problems, improvements ? 

The wires do look thin for a 145 amp device

Well, I think it is 145 amp MAX draw... so I don't see to many problems with wiring there. It looks like maybe 12-14 gauge wires on there... hard to tell.

 

Anyway, I do know that if the motor ever failed, you can buy a replacement for less cost, which is a plus.

 

And, I would keep some kind of protectant on the cable, as it will rust... (i know how you are about rust...)

 

Don

 

 

Edited February 21, 2022 by Snoopy11
spelllllling

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

9 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

 

And, I would keep some kind of protectant and the cable, as it will rust... (i know how you are about rust...

Maybe @peter lena has some ideas on that.

[peter lena 8,639]

@Maxwell-8   when you get that winch , fully extend the cable and use a  cable and open gear lubricant on it as you pull it back on with load , that will flex and draw the lubricant into the cable windings , insuring lubrication and stopping rust , don,t ask me how i know this , pete 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

Since the steering wheel moved back due to the dash lift, I moved the seat back.

moved the seat support under the frame back an drilled new holes in the fender.

I will have to gap weld the original holes in the seat pan. 

It is much more comfortable with my long legs, since the pedals are now further from me.

 

Edited February 22, 2022 by Maxwell-8

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Change one thing which leads to another and before you know it you've worked on every square centimeter, or inch if you're so inclined 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

2 minutes ago, sjoemie himself said:

Change one thing which leads to another and before you know it you've worked on every square centimeter, or inch if you're so inclined 

What haven't I touched. haha

Just remembered I will have to lengthen the shiftersticks and brakerod because I moved the tranny back as well.

 

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

I rest my case