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RandyLittrell

Wheel stud conversion

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WheelhorseBob

Very nice! May need to do that to a few in the stables!

Edited by WheelhorseBob
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8ntruck

Yup.  I made the conversion on my 14-8.  Makes putting the rear wheels on and off a bunch easier.

 

Looking for suitable bits to make the conversion on my C-195.  The problem there is that the nut seats in the wheels are 90 degrees, instead of the typical 60 degrees.  So far, the only 90 degree lug nuts I've found in the proper thread size have a flat on the bottom of the cone that is to big to fit the nut seat on the wheel.

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ebinmaine

Nice work Randy. 

 

8 hours ago, WheelhorseBob said:

Very nice! May need to do that to a few in the stables!

Bob we do this on ALL our builds and modifications now. 

I'll likely add wheel studs to every set of hubs I ever get my little hands on.  

 

8 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

the nut seats in the wheels are 90 degrees, instead of the typical 60 degrees

Perhaps a lathe would solve that?

I s'pose it could even be done with a drill and a grinder...

 

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ebinmaine

Also wanted to mention... 

I buy ours in bulk online.  Bolt Depot for the "studs" and whatever's least expensive source for the lugnuts. 

 

Randy you did well on the pricing. 👍

 

 

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squonk

I use plain 70 Camaro lug nuts. Cheapest  found was Summit Racing. Doorman # 611-014 $24 for 25 nuts. Pkg of Fine bolts and 7/16' outside star lock washers from McMaster -Carr and some blue loctite

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JoeM

I use a grade 8 lock washer plus the Loc Tite, no chamfering necessary. 

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ebinmaine
11 hours ago, RandyLittrell said:

chamfered

 

1 minute ago, JoeM said:

I use a grade 8 lock washer plus the Loc Tite, no chamfering necessary. 

 

 

I don't do either. 

 

Just tighten the bolts to the back of the hub with rated torque plus a tad more. They don't loosen up. 

 

I DO however re-torque the lug nuts after an hour or so of driving time. 

 

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squonk
37 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

 

 

 

Just tighten the bolts to the back of the hub with rated torque plus a tad more. They don't loosen up. 

 

 

 

When I torque the lug nuts I have a wrench holding the bolt head. The right hand action of tightening can loosen the bolt

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71_Bronco

I run a split lock washer between the bolt head and the hub. Haven't had an issue yet.

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, squonk said:

When I torque the lug nuts I have a wrench holding the bolt head. The right hand action of tightening can loosen the bolt

Hadn't thought o that. Good info!!

 

 

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8ntruck
9 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

lathe

Yup.  That was plan 'B'.  I'll be mentoring the robotics team again this winter.  This will give me access to the school's shop - which includes a CNC lathe and several manual lathes.

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kpinnc

Adding studs on these tractors is possibly the best upgrade you can do. However you do it, it's awesome!

 

I use spacers myself...

 

IMG_20210510_150328450.jpg

Edited by kpinnc
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ebinmaine
3 hours ago, kpinnc said:

Adding studs on these tractors is possibly the best upgrade you can do. However you do it, it's awesome!

 

I use spacers myself...

 

IMG_20210510_150328450.jpg

 

We've done that as well. 

One of my sets of wheels was originally on a Ford garden tractor. Offset is wrong so I compensate with 2" spacers. 

On the big tractor build I wanted it a specific width. I used 15" camper wheels and added 3" spacers. 

 

Spacers work great for adding a little additional clearance for tire chains too. 

 

I now keep a list of the needed parts handy. 

 

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littleredrider

Highly recommend doing it if haven't already. The 520 diesel has 25" ATV tires on 10" wheels, filled. They gotta be over 125 pounds each. I think just being filled with water is 100lbs. But it was a nightmare to get the wheels on without the studs. The axle would spin whenever trying to get the wheels on....

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cleat

I know it is hard to see but this is a pic of the front wheel on my 30 HP diesel loader tractor (not a wheel Horse).

 

From the factory, it came with 2 studs and the rest are bolts.

Having at least 2 studs gets the wheel properly lined up to get the rest of the bolts in.

 

134623141_Largerwheelsinstalled3.jpg.82e2c8c5f8b2cb959c58343fb5d2b58e.jpg

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Lee1977
On 10/11/2021 at 7:28 AM, littleredrider said:

Highly recommend doing it if haven't already. The 520 diesel has 25" ATV tires on 10" wheels, filled. They gotta be over 125 pounds each. I think just being filled with water is 100lbs. But it was a nightmare to get the wheels on without the studs. The axle would spin whenever trying to get the wheels on....

There is a way to make the studs work.. Take a 7/16 fine tread bolt and cut the head off. Screw it in put the wheel on it spin it to the top and the other four bolts line up, then put in a couple of studs and remove the head less bolt.

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AMC RULES

20211021_163710.jpg.462693a6c19cb16c3856e8513ba329b1.jpg

 

:confusion-shrug:  Cheaper to use just one stud to make aligning up them lug bolts so much easier. 

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littleredrider
6 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

There is a way to make the studs work.. Take a 7/16 fine tread bolt and cut the head off. Screw it in put the wheel on it spin it to the top and the other four bolts line up, then put in a couple of studs and remove the head less bolt.

True, but might as well to the whole conversion. Much easier to do wheels that way. Plus, if have open wheels, no weights or hub caps, can get some fancy chrome lug nuts for some bling lol. 

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, littleredrider said:

fancy chrome lug nuts for some bling lol. 

Or anodized red..

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clueless
3 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

20211021_163710.jpg.462693a6c19cb16c3856e8513ba329b1.jpg

 

:confusion-shrug:  Cheaper to use just one stud to make aligning up them lug bolts so much easier. 

Yep, that's how I roll, well the tractors anyway:handgestures-thumbupright:.

 

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DennisThornton

Even if only stud is added life is much better!  Especially with filled tires! 

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rjg854
7 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Or anodized red..

20180706_175007-1.jpg.0dfd4734f39dcdb7c9d58d384a867635.jpg

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