RandyLittrell 3,884 #1 Posted October 10, 2021 I know there were some kits out there and lots of been posted about converting to wheel studs, but thought I would document with some pics while doing this today. I bought these lug nuts from Amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07QNM3MXJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details And 20 1 1/2" 7/16-20 fine thread grade 5 bolts from my local hardware store at 85 cent a pop. These bolts have a slight chamfer at the base of the head, so I chamfered the backside of the hubs so they would fit flush with some blue loctite added to keep them in place. I will let he pics speak for themselves. 5 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelhorseBob 1,549 #2 Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) Very nice! May need to do that to a few in the stables! Edited October 10, 2021 by WheelhorseBob 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,016 #3 Posted October 10, 2021 Yup. I made the conversion on my 14-8. Makes putting the rear wheels on and off a bunch easier. Looking for suitable bits to make the conversion on my C-195. The problem there is that the nut seats in the wheels are 90 degrees, instead of the typical 60 degrees. So far, the only 90 degree lug nuts I've found in the proper thread size have a flat on the bottom of the cone that is to big to fit the nut seat on the wheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,596 #4 Posted October 10, 2021 Nice work Randy. 8 hours ago, WheelhorseBob said: Very nice! May need to do that to a few in the stables! Bob we do this on ALL our builds and modifications now. I'll likely add wheel studs to every set of hubs I ever get my little hands on. 8 hours ago, 8ntruck said: the nut seats in the wheels are 90 degrees, instead of the typical 60 degrees Perhaps a lathe would solve that? I s'pose it could even be done with a drill and a grinder... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,596 #5 Posted October 10, 2021 Also wanted to mention... I buy ours in bulk online. Bolt Depot for the "studs" and whatever's least expensive source for the lugnuts. Randy you did well on the pricing. 👍 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #6 Posted October 10, 2021 I use plain 70 Camaro lug nuts. Cheapest found was Summit Racing. Doorman # 611-014 $24 for 25 nuts. Pkg of Fine bolts and 7/16' outside star lock washers from McMaster -Carr and some blue loctite 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #7 Posted October 10, 2021 I use a grade 8 lock washer plus the Loc Tite, no chamfering necessary. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,596 #8 Posted October 10, 2021 11 hours ago, RandyLittrell said: chamfered 1 minute ago, JoeM said: I use a grade 8 lock washer plus the Loc Tite, no chamfering necessary. I don't do either. Just tighten the bolts to the back of the hub with rated torque plus a tad more. They don't loosen up. I DO however re-torque the lug nuts after an hour or so of driving time. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #9 Posted October 10, 2021 37 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Just tighten the bolts to the back of the hub with rated torque plus a tad more. They don't loosen up. When I torque the lug nuts I have a wrench holding the bolt head. The right hand action of tightening can loosen the bolt 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #10 Posted October 10, 2021 I run a split lock washer between the bolt head and the hub. Haven't had an issue yet. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,596 #11 Posted October 10, 2021 1 hour ago, squonk said: When I torque the lug nuts I have a wrench holding the bolt head. The right hand action of tightening can loosen the bolt Hadn't thought o that. Good info!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,016 #12 Posted October 10, 2021 9 hours ago, ebinmaine said: lathe Yup. That was plan 'B'. I'll be mentoring the robotics team again this winter. This will give me access to the school's shop - which includes a CNC lathe and several manual lathes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,087 #13 Posted October 11, 2021 (edited) Adding studs on these tractors is possibly the best upgrade you can do. However you do it, it's awesome! I use spacers myself... Edited October 11, 2021 by kpinnc 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,596 #14 Posted October 11, 2021 3 hours ago, kpinnc said: Adding studs on these tractors is possibly the best upgrade you can do. However you do it, it's awesome! I use spacers myself... We've done that as well. One of my sets of wheels was originally on a Ford garden tractor. Offset is wrong so I compensate with 2" spacers. On the big tractor build I wanted it a specific width. I used 15" camper wheels and added 3" spacers. Spacers work great for adding a little additional clearance for tire chains too. I now keep a list of the needed parts handy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
littleredrider 409 #15 Posted October 11, 2021 Highly recommend doing it if haven't already. The 520 diesel has 25" ATV tires on 10" wheels, filled. They gotta be over 125 pounds each. I think just being filled with water is 100lbs. But it was a nightmare to get the wheels on without the studs. The axle would spin whenever trying to get the wheels on.... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,042 #16 Posted October 11, 2021 I know it is hard to see but this is a pic of the front wheel on my 30 HP diesel loader tractor (not a wheel Horse). From the factory, it came with 2 studs and the rest are bolts. Having at least 2 studs gets the wheel properly lined up to get the rest of the bolts in. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,666 #17 Posted October 23, 2021 On 10/11/2021 at 7:28 AM, littleredrider said: Highly recommend doing it if haven't already. The 520 diesel has 25" ATV tires on 10" wheels, filled. They gotta be over 125 pounds each. I think just being filled with water is 100lbs. But it was a nightmare to get the wheels on without the studs. The axle would spin whenever trying to get the wheels on.... There is a way to make the studs work.. Take a 7/16 fine tread bolt and cut the head off. Screw it in put the wheel on it spin it to the top and the other four bolts line up, then put in a couple of studs and remove the head less bolt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #18 Posted October 23, 2021 Cheaper to use just one stud to make aligning up them lug bolts so much easier. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
littleredrider 409 #19 Posted October 23, 2021 6 hours ago, Lee1977 said: There is a way to make the studs work.. Take a 7/16 fine tread bolt and cut the head off. Screw it in put the wheel on it spin it to the top and the other four bolts line up, then put in a couple of studs and remove the head less bolt. True, but might as well to the whole conversion. Much easier to do wheels that way. Plus, if have open wheels, no weights or hub caps, can get some fancy chrome lug nuts for some bling lol. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,596 #20 Posted October 23, 2021 1 hour ago, littleredrider said: fancy chrome lug nuts for some bling lol. Or anodized red.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 3,002 #21 Posted October 23, 2021 3 hours ago, AMC RULES said: Cheaper to use just one stud to make aligning up them lug bolts so much easier. Yep, that's how I roll, well the tractors anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #22 Posted October 23, 2021 Even if only stud is added life is much better! Especially with filled tires! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,378 #23 Posted October 23, 2021 7 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Or anodized red.. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites