This should work, but a question or two...

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

I'm thinking of replacing the keyswitch on my machine with a toggle and a pushbutton.  I need to replace the keyswitch again and can't seem to find something that meets my quality standards.

 

I'm open to sourcing suggestions for a QUALITY keyswitch of course, but in the meantime:

 

I'm going to check my existing switch later today, but thought I'd put this out there.

 

Does the keyswitch 'BREAK' the rectifier (regulator) connection when going to START as in the bottom schematic as opposed to the top?

 

 

 

Edited October 4, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[ebinmaine 67,397]

I know this isn't the actual question you're asking... 

What BRAND of key switch have you been using and what model of machine is this?

 

 

[WHX?? 48,813]

Better yet how is the engine shut down? Grounding points or removeing power to the coil? 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

What BRAND of key switch have you been using

 

I actually don't know!  It's been a few years. (but not long enough that this one should be going flaky already!)

 

4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

what model of machine is this?

 

C-175

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

Just now, WHX?? said:

Grounding points or removeing power to the coil? 

 

Removing power.

 

[ebinmaine 67,397]

1 minute ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I actually don't know!  It's been a few years. (but not long enough that this one should be going flaky already!)

 

 

C-175

 

 

 

My personal experience shows me that a Cole Hersey brand is going to be your best bet. Or, believe it or not.... Getting a used original. I've had okay luck with Sten's. A little better with Standard.

[squonk 41,051]

Echlin KS6180 or Grote 82-2156

 

Push button

 

Echlin ST26 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040]

Regulator is powered on this one in start

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Regulator is powered on this one in start

 

Thanks Garry,  I haven't checked the one I have yet, but that answers the questions.

 

I'm not concerned with shedding the Accessory load as these appear to do, all that's on that circuit is the lights and I normally don't use those, but was concerned about the regulator.  Seems it's a 'non-issue'

 

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Echlin KS6180 or Grote 82-2156

 

Thanks Squonk!  I actually have a lot of parts in stock so I shouldn't need to purchase anything for this conversion... IF I decide to go ahead with it.  I'm going to keep looking for high Q 5 terminal keyswitches.

 

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Echlin KS6180

 

This one does look pretty heavy duty!  Only 4 terminals but that shouldn't be a problem, the regulator and the ignition can both go on the ignition terminal.

 

 

[Gregor 4,846]

3 hours ago, squonk said:

Echlin KS6180 or Grote 82-2156

 

 

I have used this one several times. Available at Auto Zone.  Edit...This is a 4 pole switch, not 5

 

Not sure this answers your question, but IIRC, you have a 175.

Edited October 4, 2021 by Gregor

[pfrederi 17,700]

Question... Why would you want the regulator to be connected in cranking mode????

[Gregor 4,846]

37 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Question... Why would you want the regulator to be connected in cranking mode????

Wouldn't do any good, but on the other hand, wouldn't do any harm, would it?

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

43 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Question... Why would you want the regulator to be connected in cranking mode????

 

There's no 'reason' for it Paul, but the keyswitches do NOT disconnect it during cranking:

 

 

The question was if there was any reason to DISconnect it while cranking, i.e. would it damage the regulator.  The answer appears to be no, it won't damage it as the stock keyswitch leaves it connected.

 

So this would work if I decide to go that way:

 

 

BUT, I'll probably just go with one of the 'better' grade of keyswitch to eliminate having to drill another hole.

(even though some fancy lighted toggles and pushbuttons might look cool)

 

 

Edited October 4, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

This is a 4 pole switch, not 5

 

Which would be fine because the IGN and REG can be on the same terminal.

 

[Handy Don 12,204]

 

10 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

lighted toggles and pushbuttons

Sounds pretty cool to me. 'Course when would I be out in the dark to need them?!

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

This one looks exactly the same as the Echlin and Grote.  I wonder if they are all the same manufacturer just branded differently?

 

Edited October 4, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

5 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

when would I be out in the dark

 

My bride seems to think that's normal for me!

[Handy Don 12,204]

Just now, Jeff-C175 said:

 

My bride seems to think that's normal for me!

Well, "in the dark" as general situation, yes, often.

But on the tractor, nope. Village ordinances are pretty strict about nighttime noise.

[Chuck Masters 2]

I'm late to this party, but I'm hoping one of you knowledgeable guys can tell me if all this is applicable to a '93 312-8.  I've been turning the switch on and shorting the solenoid to start mine for years because we haven't been able to find a switch that works properly.

[Handy Don 12,204]

2 hours ago, Chuck Masters said:

I'm late to this party, but I'm hoping one of you knowledgeable guys can tell me if all this is applicable to a '93 312-8.  I've been turning the switch on and shorting the solenoid to start mine for years because we haven't been able to find a switch that works properly.

Hi there and welcome.

Your best bet, assuming you have some ability with low voltage electrics, is to look over the wiring diagram in the manual for your tractor.

I've attached links to the illustrated parts manual (so you can get the switch part number) and the owners manual with the wiring diagram.

Come back with detailed questions any time!

 

 

 

[953 nut 55,163]

2 hours ago, Chuck Masters said:

been turning the switch on and shorting the solenoid to start

Many times an electrical problem can be cured by cleaning and tightening all electrical connections. If you use a small jumper wire from your battery "+" terminal to the small blue wire on the solenoid will it close and activate  the starter? Take a look at this diagram of your starter circuit to guide you. 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

7 hours ago, Chuck Masters said:

I'm late to this party, but I'm hoping one of you knowledgeable guys can tell me if all this is applicable to a '93 312-8.  I've been turning the switch on and shorting the solenoid to start mine for years because we haven't been able to find a switch that works properly.

 

My bet is there's some trouble with the PTO switch or the neutral switch.

 

Just to cover the basics, you aren't trying to start it with the PTO engaged, are you?

 

And you've got the pedal mashed down also?

 

You need a multimeter to track this down.  Do you own and know how to use one?

 

 

 

 

Edited October 9, 2021 by Jeff-C175