1984 Work Horse GT-1600 REFRESH

[Horse Newbie 7,051]

Well I started tearing down my FREE 1984 Work Horse GT-1600 today, since my welder/ machinist has my 48 inch SD deck for my 1994 520H, and that project is on hold.

When I first acquired the Work Horse I only messed with it enough to determine that the twin Briggs WOULD RUN...

So far hood off, seat, seat pan, gas tank, transmission console cover, foot boards, drive belt guard,

 

[ebinmaine 67,222]

Nice. I'm in. 

How far down you disassembling?

[Horse Newbie 7,051]

5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Nice. I'm in. 

How far down you disassembling?

Don't know for sure yet...I usually end up going farther than I originally plan...you know how that goes .

Probably leave the axles intact so I can roll it around... Plan is to start with the Briggs first. I know it needs a fuel pump. I'll clean the Briggs twin, hopefully get it running good enough for the girls I date, snd if I am happy with the engine, probably paint parts, full lube job, including draining and flushing the trans, clean all electrical terminals...you know- just get her back to reliable operating condition.

[Horse Newbie 7,051]

See this hole...does the screw that holds the gear shifter in place go on there ? (I can see some shiney on the end of the roll pin holding that round thing on the shifter).

Also, my screw is 1.25 inches long, and the small end is about 1/8th inch long...does these measurements sound right ?

Just tinkering until I can get to working on the Briggs twin...

I think I can get a little more out of this shifter boot...

[ebinmaine 67,222]

3 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

does the screw that holds the gear shifter in place go on there ?

Yepp

 

Screw measurement sounds right. 

 

4 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

think I can get a little more out of this shifter boot

Mmmmmmmmmmmm. 

Maybe with a coat of gorilla tape?

 

[Horse Newbie 7,051]

I can smell what smells like to me, gear oil in the trans...

Of course I will check the specs, but what do you fellow horsemen run in these transmissions ?

Edited October 3, 2021 by Horse Newbie

[ebinmaine 67,222]

The least expensive 80w 90 or whatever close will do fine. 

[Snoopy11 5,714]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

The least expensive 80w 90 or whatever close will do fine. 

 

I hear a visit to Tractor Supply coming...!

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,714]

36 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

smell what smells like to me, gear oil

I know that smell..

 

Don

[Horse Newbie 7,051]

3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

The least expensive 80w 90 or whatever close will do fine. 

I'll be refilling with summa that after a trans. flush...

[Horse Newbie 7,051]

I have heard on here of fellows having trouble shifting gears in these manuals after taking the shifter out and replacing the boot... they later found the shifter forks were not in the correct position. Took a look down in the shifter hole, after I made sure to remove the shifter  in neutral position...looks like the shifter forks are in the right position for reinsertion...

[Achto 27,502]

1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

I have heard on here of fellows having trouble shifting gears in these manuals after taking the shifter out and replacing the boot

 

????? Never had this issue my self. I replace the boot on every tractor I restore and some that I haven't restored. If you get the detent bolt back in the hole you should have no issues.

[Horse Newbie 7,051]

2 hours ago, Achto said:

 

????? Never had this issue my self. I replace the boot on every tractor I restore and some that I haven't restored. If you get the detent bolt back in the hole you should have no issues.

Yes sir !... But somehow a guy on here got his shifter back in and it was not properly positioned between the shifter forks down in the trans...his jammed up.

[Horse Newbie 7,051]

So I was gonna remove the engine tins just to clean the engine and this is what I ended up with...

[Moparfanforever 844]

Always seems to work that way!!

[Gregor 4,845]

7 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

So I was gonna remove the engine tins just to clean the engine and this is what I ended up with...

 

 

Those   rattle guns make it too easy.

[Handy Don 12,125]

10 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

So I was gonna remove the engine tins just to clean the engine and this is what I ended up with...

 

 

Oops! 

[Horse Newbie 7,051]

I always seem to jump ahead of myself on my projects...so just asking...Is the engine tins too thin to have sand/ glass bead blasted ?

Of course I'm not going to do that until I check the health of the engine...

Also, how does the muffkin pipes come off ?...just slide off here ?(see pic)...not necessarily wanting to unscrew the pipes attached to the engine...

[Handy Don 12,125]

2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Also, how does the muffkin pipes come off ?...just slide off here ?(see pic)...not necessarily wanting to unscrew the pipes attached to the engine...

Gonna follow this since I don't recall every seeing and exhaust connection like that. B&Ss that I've worked on had threaded exhausts but this one looks like it has bolt holes for a wide flange that aren't been used and a narrow flange with holes that aren't being used either.

Need clearer pictures.

[Gregor 4,845]

10 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

.Is the engine tins too thin to have sand/ glass bead blasted ?

I have tins blasted all the time.Not sure what they use on them, but they always come back fine.

 

13 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

how does the muffkin pipes come off ?...just slide off here ?(

My Briggs 18 twin had 2 screws holding on each exhaust manifold. Yours appears to either be different, or the flanges on the manifold pipes are gone. In the pic below, there are 2 different styles.

 

The muffkin itself is screwed to the (tins I think) to hold it on.

[ebinmaine 67,222]

54 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I have tins blasted all the time.Not sure what they use on them, but they always come back fine.

 

I'm not a blasty expert but I'm thinking bead blasting is ok. 

 

 

 

54 minutes ago, Gregor said:

the flanges on the manifold pipes are gone. In the pic below, there are 2 different styles.

 

The muffkin itself is screwed to the (tins I think) to hold it on.

 

I believe what he has is #302. 

Tough to see but looks like a lock flange. 

Hand wire brush that a bit and you'll get a better look. 

 

[Horse Newbie 7,051]

@Handy Don , @ebinmaine , @Gregor

I do have the 302...wire brushed it a little and took a better pic...

So does the muffkin pipe just slide off of # 864C to get the muffkin off ?

[Handy Don 12,125]

AHA!

 

This pipe threads into the block and the tabbed ring nut then tightens down to lock it in place. 

 

To remove (after copious application of your favorite penetrant given adequate time to work) you use a hammer and punch on one of the ring nut tabs to "lefty loosen" the nut back a half a turn or so. then use a pipe wrench or vice grips to gently "lefty-loosen" the exhaust pipe out of the block.

Edited October 5, 2021 by Handy Don

[ebinmaine 67,222]

4 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

does the muffkin pipe just slide off

Looks like that's how it was installed. 

Given 40 years of rust attachment it May not be overly impressed about coming off. 

[Bill D 1,905]

Unbolt the muffler mount and the pipes will slide off the stubs that are threaded into the block.  Do not remove the pipe stubs from the block.