Horse Newbie 7,075 #51 Posted October 8, 2021 3 minutes ago, Moparfanforever said: The only way to adjust the valves on a Briggs is to take the valves out and grind a little bit off the stem. If you have a feeler gauge , check the clearance first. If it has good compression I don't think I outta try that ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 851 #52 Posted October 8, 2021 Yes sir !! Unlike a Kohler that the seat screws in , the Briggs seat is pressed in. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 851 #53 Posted October 8, 2021 Yes sir !! Unlike a Kohler that the seat screws in , the Briggs seat is pressed in. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 851 #54 Posted October 8, 2021 4 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: If it has good compression I don't think I outta try that ! Do not blame you at all. And to clean the carbon from the intake ports and valve stems , my down and dirty way to do it , right or wrong at your own risk , get the engine hot , WOT , spray carb cleaner into the carb until it about dies. Do that five or six times. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #55 Posted October 8, 2021 Send that over to Scott @Greentoredfor a rebuild/wakeup. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #56 Posted October 8, 2021 7 minutes ago, Bill D said: Send that over to Scott @Greentoredfor a rebuild/wakeup. Arr you serious ? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #57 Posted October 8, 2021 (edited) On 10/6/2021 at 9:29 AM, Horse Newbie said: Caustic stuff like drain cleaners, hydrochloric acid... M.E.K. ....methyl Ethyl Ketone...could find it at Lowes although the video on YouTube said he got it at Home Depot. They may not sell it anymore in Big Box...probably too dangerous for general public Edited October 8, 2021 by Horse Newbie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #58 Posted October 8, 2021 48 minutes ago, Moparfanforever said: Yes sir !! Unlike a Kohler that the seat screws in , the Briggs seat is pressed in. Well that blows ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #59 Posted October 8, 2021 (edited) 42 minutes ago, Moparfanforever said: Do not blame you at all. And to clean the carbon from the intake ports and valve stems , my down and dirty way to do it , right or wrong at your own risk , get the engine hot , WOT , spray carb cleaner into the carb until it about dies. Do that five or six times. I may have to get down and dirty... Edited October 8, 2021 by Horse Newbie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #60 Posted October 8, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: Alright fellas, I'm throwing a lifeline ! I AM NOT an engine mechanic ! @ebinmaine , @pullstart , @lynnmor , @Handy Don , and all the rest of the calvary... Can I order carb parts using just what I suspect is the engine model number- 402437 ? The carb on my 16 hp twin Briggs has absolutely no markings. So far I will be needing... 1. Intake manifold gaskets. 2. Carb to intake gasket. 3. Carb top to carb body gasket. 4. O-ring for main jet access/ drain plug. 5. Hinge pin for float. Can you answer these questions for me ? 1. How does the float needle valve attach to the float ? See the pic and notice the small wire wire. 2. Does the needle valve hang on the float by the wire as pic shows ? But the rebuild kit for it. It will come with all the needed pieces to rebuild the carb and built in fuel pump. As to my post #55, if you're interested in spending the money I'm sure Scott could get more power out of it. If not, run a compression check on it and see if it had even compression on both cylinders. Rebuild the carb and see how it sounds. Leave the carbon alone and run serveral cans of Seafoam thru it to clean it out once it's running. The engine numbers should be stamped into the tinwork over the front cylinder. The first two digits of the code is the year of manufacture. Edited October 8, 2021 by Bill D 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #61 Posted October 8, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Bill D said: The engine numbers should be stamped into the tinwork over the front cylinder. Thanks @Bill D...I looked the tins over real good, and the engine casings...have not seen any numbers...I'll look again tomorrow. Edited October 8, 2021 by Horse Newbie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #62 Posted October 8, 2021 2 hours ago, Moparfanforever said: Yes sir !! Unlike a Kohler that the seat screws in , the Briggs seat is pressed in. Don't try to pull the seat out of the carb. Use a small fiber brush on a Dremel tool to polish the seat where the needle seats. Clean it good and it should be fine. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #63 Posted October 8, 2021 3 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: Thanks @Bill D...I looked the tins over real good, and the engine casings...have not seen any numbers...I'll look again tomorrow. Your welcome. Wipe the tins down with WD 40. That should help them show up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #64 Posted October 8, 2021 2 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: Dout.Do you mean the seat that the rubber tip on the needle valve seals against ? Personally, I would not replace the seat. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #65 Posted October 8, 2021 1 minute ago, Bill D said: Don't try to pull the seat out of the carb. What you said is what I was gonna do...thanks ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #66 Posted October 8, 2021 Just now, Gregor said: Personally, I would not replace the seat. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #67 Posted October 8, 2021 1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said: M.E.K. ....methyl Ethyl Ketone...could find it at Lowes although the video on YouTube said he got it at Home Depot. They may not sell it anymore in Big Box...probably too dangerous for general public That might damage the tank. I believe it's one of the components in PVC primer. I might be wrong though. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #68 Posted October 8, 2021 6 minutes ago, Bill D said: That might damage the tank. I believe it's one of the components in PVC primer. I might be wrong though. Could not find MEK anyways...may be a good thing I didn't. I am letting the tank soak overnight in diluted muriatic acid . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #69 Posted October 8, 2021 Do you think my tank is ABS ? I looked up MEK...glad I didn't use that. Hope the muriatic acid blend wont hurt the tank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #70 Posted October 8, 2021 5 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: Can I order carb parts using just what I suspect is the engine model number- 402437 ? This is according to Wheel Horse manuals. When I ordered the kit for my M18, it came complete with all the parts to rebuild the integrated fuel pump as well. The kit contains parts for many different carbs. Use what you need, discard the rest. I got lucky, my local home/farm store had the kit on the shelf. Briggs # 694056. Google it, lots of choices out there. Anywhere from 8 - $25. When I pulled the intake, the gaskets came off perfect, so I reused them. The following is for a Wheel Horse GT 1600. I don't know what the differences are between a WORK Horse and a WHEEL Horse. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,087 #71 Posted October 8, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: M.E.K. ....methyl Ethyl Ketone...could find it at Lowes although the video on YouTube said he got it at Home Depot. They may not sell it anymore in Big Box...probably too dangerous for general public We used this stuff cleaning and painting aircraft in the military 25 years ago. We called it "methyl ethyl death" just because how strong it was. Good stuff, but highly dangerous. Worked great for thinning paint or pickling the entire amphibian population of a small country if introduced by air burst. Only reason I remember it is because I had to go to the hospital when some spattered in my eye because of a faulty pneumatic connector. Luckily it must have been a minuscule amount. ...or maybe that's what has been wrong with me all these years! Edited October 8, 2021 by kpinnc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,759 #72 Posted October 8, 2021 FYI. The original MEK is no longer available. I’ve seen cans labeled “MEK Substitute” at HD and Lowes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,235 #73 Posted October 8, 2021 10 hours ago, Bill D said: Don't try to pull the seat out of the carb. Use a small fiber brush on a Dremel tool to polish the seat where the needle seats. Clean it good and it should be fine. Totally agree here. Some carbs have easily replaced seats of Viton or even brass but where they are not removable, GENTLE non-abrasive cleaning is the way to go. I've used a pointed buffing bit on my Dremel soaked in carb cleaner and turning at the tool's slowest speed to good effect. The carb kit will normally include a new float hinge pin so no worries there. Also note how the "spring" on the fuel needle valve secures the pin to the float. This assures that as the fuel level in the bowl goes down, that the valve is "pulled" open by the weight of the float. On some Tecumseh carbs, there is also a spring surrounding the hinge pin that helps force the float downward as the fuel level lowers. Keep all the new and old parts clearly separated and closely compare each one before using it. I've occasionally been sent incorrect idle or high-speed needle jets (too long, too short, or not correctly pointed). This is also a good chance to note how your existing parts have (or haven't) been worn! Good luck! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #74 Posted October 8, 2021 45 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Good luck! Thanks...I'm gonna need it ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,634 #75 Posted October 8, 2021 @Horse Newbie agree with others on the ex pipe removal , you want to have a very solid removal impact on that nut , obvious soaking with penetrant , I have big jaw vise grips , with an almost circular grip , that's the type of grip you want , a hammer tap on that will make it move . pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites