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1984 Work Horse GT-1600 REFRESH

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

I’d maybe heat up the knob with a hair dryer…

 

I’d leave it red…

 

:twocents-twocents:

Agreed with both.  

 

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Horse Newbie

First task this morning… correct the toe-in on the Work Horse.

I do believe I set it a little too much…

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Horse Newbie

So I have the toe-in adjusted… 1/8th inch wider between the backside of the tires compared to the front…

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Horse Newbie

Can anyone post a detailed pic of how the parts for the rock shaft is installed ?

Or post pics of yours… hold on , let me go look at my 520H… duh…

 

Edit:

I can’t see up in there on the 520H…

so I WILL need those pics if anybody can help me…

 

Thanks…

Edited by Horse Newbie

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Horse Newbie

Does it look like this hardware is in the correct place @wheelhorseman ?, or whoever’s on the Square ?

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Horse Newbie

I am assuming that these 2 washers would have went between the “e” clips and the bronze bushings… looked like with this particular tractor , that would have put the rock shaft in a bind by spreading the seat pan supports out too wide…so I did not use them… screw up, good call, or does not matter ?

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Horse Newbie

I got the rock shaft installed… need to figure out where these chains and hardware goes…

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Horse Newbie

I got the height adjustment chain between the bell crank and lift bar reinstalled… and I KNOW, I KNOW, the old bolt and nut is a little rusty where it bolts to the lift bar… this is going to be a worker, I’m a little slack, and this is the greasy side !…:lol:

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Edited by Horse Newbie
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Horse Newbie

Had to flatten out the round ends of the cotter pins in the tops of the Work Horse spindles so that my dust caps would slide past. 
Didn’t want the new dust caps being torn up by the cotters when I turn

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wheelhorseman
1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

I got the rock shaft installed… need to figure out where these chains and hardware goes…

B7287CE0-68FE-4E71-A0A4-6EE4F01CB8CA.jpeg

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E3CE7343-E8E0-4FD2-9B67-15D22ED54387.jpeg

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Yes it looks correct

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Clevis_Hitch_RockShaftKit_Instructions.pdf

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Handy Don
2 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

I got the rock shaft installed… need to figure out where these chains and hardware goes…

 

 

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Looks great!

Interesting that the washers weren't needed but if Lowell say ok, then OK!

I use the longer link ring on the rockshaft arm. It surrounds the arm and captures one end of the chain. The forward part of the link ring sits in whichever notch gives you the desired range/force--higher up is shorter lift range but greater lift force and vice versa--and the rearward part has the chain.

I use the clevis to attach the chain to the arm of the sleeve hitch--for you, it's whatever you have back there--tiller, sleeve hitch, slot hitch, etc.! Position this connection at the link in the chain that gives you the desired lift action. Likely you'll end up adjusting it as you get familiar with it.

Not sure what the solid ring is for.

 

Edited by Handy Don
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Horse Newbie

I got my front hitch latch and front hitch lock rod on…

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Horse Newbie

Mid mount attach-a-matic bracket, latch, and lock rod installed on the 1984 Work Horse… check…

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Edited by Horse Newbie
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Moparfanforever

It really is satisfying when you start bolting everything back together. 

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Horse Newbie
1 hour ago, Moparfanforever said:

It really is satisfying when you start bolting everything back together. 

Yes it is!… been working toward this…

but now that just means I can start sanding and painting seat hardware.

Oh well, that means I am getting closer to riding…

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Jeff-C175
7 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

dust caps

 

I don't know how those fit compared to the ones I got off Amazon, but I ended up putting tie wraps around mine cuz they kept falling off. 

 

 

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Horse Newbie
19 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I don't know how those fit compared to the ones I got off Amazon, but I ended up putting tie wraps around mine cuz they kept falling off. 

 

 

They seem to be somewhat snug… but not super snug…

we’ll have to wait and see…

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kpinnc
49 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

They seem to be somewhat snug… but not super snug…

we’ll have to wait and see…

 

Mine have been on the Bronco since 2008. They might tear if I tried to take them off, but so far so good.

 

 

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rjg854
13 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I don't know how those fit compared to the ones I got off Amazon, but I ended up putting tie wraps around mine cuz they kept falling off. 

 

 

I've had loose fitting dust caps, and with them I put a small bead of cheap painter's caulk inside that will hold them in place once it dries.  It's not so strong that it makes them hard to pull off. And the caulk easily comes off the paint.

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Horse Newbie

Today I am working on the seat bracket and related hardware on the Work Horse…

Was gonna start sanding, but since the new seat will not bolt up directly to the seat springs ( naturally), some modifications were in order.

Was gonna make crossmembers, but the bolt patterns were so close I decided to just drill extra holes.

The thread holes on the bottom of the new seat are plastic so I figure the spring will still be plenty strong, even though the new holes are in close proximity to the original holes on the springs.

 

Spring metal is tough, especially using a hand drill ( I need a drill press )…

 

The bit seemed to cut better with no lubrication.

 

Drilling a new hole overlapping an existing hole is tough…

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Edited by Horse Newbie
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ebinmaine
4 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Spring metal is tough

VERY. 

A properly sharpened BIT is essential. 

 

 

4 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Drilling a new hole overlapping an existing hole is tough

 

I've tried it. 

Not likely I'll ever do that again.  

That's when a Dremel or similar comes into play.  

I find it's easier for me to grind a hole larger than drill next to/into an existing hole.  

 

Edited by ebinmaine
Correct hilarious autocorrect failed failure.
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sjoemie himself

A way to tackle this is to find a piece of (thick) scrap metal and drill the size hole you want in that first. Then place that piece of scrap onto the part you want to drill, best to clamp it tight. This way you have yourselves a drill guide.

Then take your drill and go on high speed but apply minimal down pressure, use plenty of lubrication. If you have a drill press that's the way to go. When hand drilling use your handle on your drill (if it has one) or your wrist may get hurt. Ask me how I know 😅

 

Also I can highly recommend a step drill bit when attempting this, much less likely to bite and break. 

 

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kpinnc
4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

VERY. 

A properly sharpened but is essential

 

Is that a typo or a Freudian slip? :P

 

Sorry Eb, I couldn't resist...

 

4 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Spring metal is tough, especially using a hand drill ( I need a drill press )…

 

That seat will look great on that grey Work Horse! :thumbs:

Edited by kpinnc
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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

Is that a typo or a Freudian slip?

Both??

 

 

:ROTF:

 

 

Actually an excellent example of autocorrect doing it's perfect failure.  

 

I went back and corrextified. 

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kpinnc
4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Actually an excellent example of autocorrect doing it's perfect failure.  

 

I turn mine off. I got burned terribly at work once because of it. I had to IM a lady in another state about a record process that I had never done before. I meant to type "are you busy", but autocorrect made it "are you busty", and you can't edit the dang thing.

 

I dang near died. VERY embarrassing in a corporate environment to say the least. Thank God she had a sense of humor. She replied "not really, but no complaints yet"... :lol:

Edited by kpinnc
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