1984 Work Horse GT-1600 REFRESH

[peter lena 8,634]

@Horse Newbie  use a fuel rated clear vinyl fuel line , ethanol will not touch it , wrap mine in cable wrap , no fuel issues , pete 

[peter lena 8,634]

@ebinmaine that clear fuel line , will not break down like rubber , from any ethanol related fuel , that check valve just under the fuel pump , mounted vertically is the deal , instant fuel charge . its also effected my use of choke , not as much and not at all shortly after , start up . cable wrap is chafing protection , let me know , pete 

[ebinmaine 67,593]

14 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@ebinmaine that clear fuel line , will not break down like rubber , from any ethanol related fuel , that check valve just under the fuel pump , mounted vertically is the deal , instant fuel charge . its also effected my use of choke , not as much and not at all shortly after , start up . cable wrap is chafing protection , let me know , pete 

I use the clear bluish fuel line available from Sten's.

Have been doing so for maybe three years now? Definitely recommend it as do you.

 

I asked about the check valves because on my Cinnamon Horse C160 if I let it sit for more than a few weeks it takes longer to start than I prefer.

Now that I have another similar C160 it appears to be doing about the same thing. 

Appreciate the info. 

[Horse Newbie 7,074]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I use the clear bluish fuel line available from Sten's.

Where do you get ?

[ebinmaine 67,593]

22 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Where do you get ?

Wherever is cheapest usually. I've ordered it from A to Z in Pennsylvania a time or two when I had other things coming from him.

 

I can get you a part number later on and you can search it that way.

 

We use enough of it that I buy it by a 25-foot roll.

[Horse Newbie 7,074]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I can get you a part number later on and you can search it that way.

Send it !

[ebinmaine 67,593]

33 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Send it !

Dis one heah. 

 

Stens Fuel Line 115-524 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD

[Horse Newbie 7,074]

I painted some more parts today after work…

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

painted some more parts today

 

Me too!  looks just like your place with stuff hanging from the garage tracks.  DON'T FORGET THEY"RE THERE AND OPEN THE DOOR!  and don't ask how I know this either!

 

I even have a piece of cardboard just like yours!

 

(working on my 'new to me' C-125 )

 

[Horse Newbie 7,074]

2 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

DON'T FORGET THEY"RE THERE AND OPEN THE DOOR! 

I have slid them down the track before !

[kpinnc 12,083]

Nice to see I'm not the only one who "multi-purposes" the garage door track! 

[Horse Newbie 7,074]

I would like to put grease zeros in these oil 

holes in my foot pedals… does anybody know the thread size for grease zeros ?

[ebinmaine 67,593]

Grease zerks are normally 1/4 fine (28?). 

 

They can be had in other sizeseseses

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

1/4 fine (28?). 

 

Correct, 1/4-28 is the so-called 'standard' size, but they make some 'bigguns' too.

 

[Horse Newbie 7,074]

Got some more parts sanded …

 

Supposed to have temps here in the high 60’s to low 70’s this week.

 

I’ll get some more parts painted. 

[oliver2-44 9,759]

They make a smaller roughly 1/8” zerk . But I don’t know the exact size. 

Edited December 1, 2021 by oliver2-44

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

2 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

more parts sanded

 

What are you using for that?  

 

If you're not using these...

 

 

{TIP: Start with a new wheel in the corners and the tight spots, that way with the fresh square edge of the wheel you can get in tighter to the corners.}

 

...you would do yourself a HUGE favor if you did.  Of course, you need a 4" grinder, but I bet you've got one already.

These make stripping those parts SUPER fast and SMOOTH finish, ready for paint after a wipe down with degreaser. (I use Naphtha).

 

This pan was covered with rubberized bed liner which came right off easily with a heat gun and a scraper.  then;

It took about an hour and a half to go from this:

 

 

To this:

 

 

This was all pitted with rust craters to I did acid etch it before priming, but if there's no pitting, you're ready for paint.

 

If you had to hand sand that... fuggeddaboudit... and wire wheel wouldn't do the job properly either.

 

Here's an example of non-rust cratered metal after stripping with those wheels:

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,593]

53 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

...you would do yourself a HUGE favor if you did.  Of course, you need a 4" grinder, but I bet you've got one already

Agreed 👍👍👍👍👍

[peter lena 8,634]

@Horse Newbie looking at a lot of opportunities to correct things at build up , building that front end , use this lucas  chassis grease  , bombproof  no fail . grease. https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-Ounce-10301-Grease/dp/B000IG20RW  mount a 2 bolt flange bearing under the steering column cross brace, looking at that pulley with the tiny bearing , get the same type pulley with a larger bearing , and bush it down to 3/8 "  for bolt on fit , upgrade lube ,  you could also correct the sloppy pto lever end fit . don't get scared, none of what I just suggested is in the book , but it works much better . pete 

[Horse Newbie 7,074]

7 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

What are you using for that?  

 

If you're not using these...

 

 

{TIP: Start with a new wheel in the corners and the tight spots, that way with the fresh square edge of the wheel you can get in tighter to the corners.}

 

...you would do yourself a HUGE favor if you did.  Of course, you need a 4" grinder, but I bet you've got one already.

These make stripping those parts SUPER fast and SMOOTH finish, ready for paint after a wipe down with degreaser. (I use Naphtha).

 

This pan was covered with rubberized bed liner which came right off easily with a heat gun and a scraper.  then;

It took about an hour and a half to go from this:

 

 

To this:

 

 

This was all pitted with rust craters to I did acid etch it before priming, but if there's no pitting, you're ready for paint.

 

If you had to hand sand that... fuggeddaboudit... and wire wheel wouldn't do the job properly either.

 

Here's an example of non-rust cratered metal after stripping with those wheels:

 

 

 

I have been using a wire wheel on a drill, followed by hand sanding. It IS time consuming. I will definitely look into using those pads. I am assuming I would have to take the safety guard off of the grinder for them to work… ?

[kpinnc 12,083]

I would add just one thing- depending on how picky you are on the finish (hood, fender), I'd high build prime and block sand after using any rotary system to remove paint. Swirls are some stealthy rascals, and they only show up in the finish coat...

[ebinmaine 67,593]

16 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

I am assuming I would have to take the safety guard off of the grinder for them to work

That depends on the grinder. 

I have three of them and they line up in slightly different ways even though you'd think that would be an industry standard. 

 

If you do remove the guard be prepared for super extreme fast flying material with the appropriate PPE.

 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

assuming I would have to take the safety guard off

 

I use them without the guard.  They are quite docile but be careful of course.

 

1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

Swirls

 

Agree on the primer but these pads are quite amazing.  They leave VERY little in the way of swirls.  I use the self etching primer which doesn't claim to be a filler and do not block sand.  I see no swirls telegraphing through to the top coat at all.  But I'm not going for show quality.

[Horse Newbie 7,074]

6 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

But I'm not going for show quality.

Neither am I… I just want to fight the rust and make it better than it was when I got it.

[ebinmaine 67,593]

11 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

fight the rust

 

🥊🥊🥊

 

That should help