1984 Work Horse GT-1600 REFRESH

[oliver2-44 9,750]

I’ve used red garnet blast media in a blast cabinet on at least 4 sets of Kohler tins with no problem.  Any type media should be fine as long as he doesn’t use a large industrial blast setup 

[Gregor 4,846]

With a little luck they will slide off, in time. Mine was the other style. I got lucky and all 4 screws came out. I now have pipe threaded into the block.

 

[Tuneup 1,433]

5 hours ago, Bill D said:

Unbolt the muffler mount and the pipes will slide off the stubs that are threaded into the block.  Do not remove the pipe stubs from the block.

 

Ditto! Rust is all that is securing those collars. I'd leave the 302 alone. Guaranteed destruction. Only attempt if a replacement is at hand. I appreciate your choice of open end wrenches. Ah, the old Craftsman and to be 16 again. 7/16 got a workout.

[Gregor 4,846]

11 minutes ago, Tuneup said:

I appreciate your choice of open end wrenches. Ah, the old Craftsman

I know, but here is a different Craftsman wrench. The only ones I have ever seen are the ones I have. Open end ratchet wrench. They kind-a sort-a work.

[ebinmaine 67,498]

43 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I know, but here is a different Craftsman wrench. The only ones I have ever seen are the ones I have. Open end ratchet wrench. They kind-a sort-a work.

 

 

I have a set of those. Metric and standard. They work well enough in some situations.

That said I also have several impact drivers of various sizes and those come out first and foremost every single time. I've gotten so I don't even reach for a ratchet or a wrench anymore unless I'm holding the other side of whatever the impact driver is on....

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

6 hours ago, Bill D said:

Do not remove the pipe stubs from the block.

That's what I was thinking...been in there 37 years...I don't want to wake that sleeping dog !

Thanks @Bill D

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

Toady after work I Gunked the Briggs twin from my 1984 Work Horse GT-1600 and pressure washed it... Also did the dash tower, frame, and a few other pieces like the seat pan brackets.

I'd rather wrench on something a little less greasy...

Fuel tank needed some serious cleaning and the inside has a build up of dirt and lacquer. (I hate to think what the carb is gonna look like)

 

Purple Power did not clean the lacquer build up out. Do any of you guys know what will take the lacquer build up out of the tank ? I'm thinking mineral spirits or paint thinner...

[ebinmaine 67,498]

That looks much better!!

 

 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

I looked on YouTube and got some ideas about cleaning out that fuel tank...

[ebinmaine 67,498]

6 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

I looked on YouTube and got some ideas about cleaning out that fuel tank...

Plastic tank?

 

What chemicals were suggested?

 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Plastic tank?

 

What chemicals were suggested?

 

Caustic stuff like drain cleaners, hydrochloric acid...

[Lee1977 6,659]

On 10/3/2021 at 7:22 PM, Horse Newbie said:

I have heard on here of fellows having trouble shifting gears in these manuals after taking the shifter out and replacing the boot... they later found the shifter forks were not in the correct position. Took a look down in the shifter hole, after I made sure to remove the shifter  in neutral position...looks like the shifter forks are in the right position for reinsertion...

I have the same transmission apart { 1" axle  8 speed }. this is what the shifters should look likr down through the hole.

As for cleaning the gas tank I would use Oxi Ciean and hot water. 

 

Edited October 6, 2021 by Lee1977

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

1 hour ago, Lee1977 said:

I have the same transmission apart { 1" axle  8 speed }. this is what the shifters should look likr down through the hole.

As for cleaning the gas tank I would use Oxi lean and hot water. 

 

Yes sir... Thank you @Lee1977...

I call those shifter forks, and that may not be the correct term... but I knew the best position to remove the shifter lever was to have the gearbox in neutral, which puts the "forks" in the position your pic shows.

It makes it simpler to remove and reinsert the shifter, with less probability of the forks not being aligned correct, and causing a jammed up shifter...

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

Alright fellas, I'm throwing a lifeline ! I AM NOT an engine mechanic !

@ebinmaine , @pullstart , @lynnmor , @Handy Don , and all the rest of the calvary...

Can I order carb parts using just what I suspect is the engine model number- 402437 ?

The carb on my 16 hp twin Briggs has absolutely no markings.

So far I will be needing...

1. Intake manifold gaskets.

2. Carb to intake gasket.

3. Carb top to carb body gasket.

4. O-ring for main jet access/ drain plug.

5. Hinge pin for float.

 

Can you answer these questions for me ?

 

1. How does the float needle valve attach to the float ?  See the pic and notice the small wire wire.

2. Does the needle valve hang on the float by the wire as pic shows ?

 

[ebinmaine 67,498]

2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Can I order carb parts using just what I suspect is the engine model number- 402437 ?

I believe so. 

 

2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Does the needle valve hang on the float by the wire as pic shows ?

Looks right from here. 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

I took off the valve covers and all 4 valves open and close. But looking down in the intake ports it's awful cruddy in there. Do you think I need to take off the heads and de- carbon ?

Also... See the holes in the valve boxes...are those inspection holes ?

If they are, I have two piston rods.

 

How do you/ or do you adjust these valves ?

I did not see an adjusting nor lock nut.

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I believe so. 

 

Looks right from here. 

Can I make a hinge pin for the float or is it so critical I would need to acquire one ?

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

Look at pics above...why would one valve spring have a thick retainer and the other a thin one ?

And I believe the thicks and thin one are on the same valves ( exhaust and intake respectively).

[ebinmaine 67,498]

2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Can I make a hinge pin for the float or is it so critical I would need to acquire one ?

Likely a new one will come in the carb rebuild kit. 

Yours doesn't have it?

[Pullstart 62,878]

1 minute ago, Horse Newbie said:

Look at pics above...why would one valve spring have a thick retainer and the other a thin one ?

And I believe the thicks and thin one are on the same valves ( exhaust and intake respectively).

Are the cups on one spring on the other end of the other spring?  

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Likely a new one will come in the carb rebuild kit. 

Yours doesn't have it?

I have not bought a carb kit yet, so no it doesn't have it...

If you are talking about the carb when I took it apart, then no it doesn't have it.

The carb top screws were loose and the PO said his son had attempted to replace the fuel pump so he may have messed with the carb too and lost the float hinge pin.

[Moparfanforever 845]

12 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Alright fellas, I'm throwing a lifeline ! I AM NOT an engine mechanic !

@ebinmaine , @pullstart , @lynnmor , @Handy Don , and all the rest of the calvary...

Can I order carb parts using just what I suspect is the engine model number- 402437 ?

The carb on my 16 hp twin Briggs has absolutely no markings.

So far I will be needing...

1. Intake manifold gaskets.

2. Carb to intake gasket.

3. Carb top to carb body gasket.

4. O-ring for main jet access/ drain plug.

5. Hinge pin for float.

 

Can you answer these questions for me ?

 

1. How does the float needle valve attach to the float ?  See the pic and notice the small wire wire.

2. Does the needle valve hang on the float by the wire as pic shows ?

 

 

You will have to get a carb kit for your engine and all those parts will be in it except for the intake gaskets. The kit will come with three or four carb top gaskets so you will have to match your old gasket. To replace the seat for the needle , you will have to cut threads in the seat ( 1/4" I think ) with a bottom tap and screw a bolt in to pull it out. Or , if it still works , use your old needle/seat. I rebuilt the carb on my 18HP a few years back and going by memory , which works sometimes !!

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

8 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Are the cups on one spring on the other end of the other spring?  

I'll have to look tomorrow...at least tonight I got the fuel tank soaking to remove varnish, and the carb soaking in carb cleaner...got a little done...

[Moparfanforever 845]

The only way to adjust the valves on a Briggs is to take the valves out and grind a little bit off the stem. If you have a feeler gauge , check the clearance first. 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

2 hours ago, Moparfanforever said:

To replace the seat for the needle , you will have to cut threads in the seat ( 1/4" I think ) with a bottom tap and screw a bolt in to pull it out.

Do you mean the seat that the rubber tip on the needle valve seals against ?

Edited October 8, 2021 by Horse Newbie