pfrederi 17,950 #76 Posted September 28, 2021 Do you have a complete picture of the ignition coil?? The part I can see doesn't look like an SSI coil. Your plug wire seems to come out the side SSI come out the top. You rs maybe pulse transformer type see page 47 of the manual. That would make sense since you engine probably doesn't have an alternator charging system. I am wondering if someone put teh the S/G on a rope start HH100 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #77 Posted September 28, 2021 This is what we got... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,950 #78 Posted September 28, 2021 OK Your engine was originally a non-alternator ignition system. (means it was rope start) You will have a magneto under the flywheel. Look at page 47 There are some cautions about working on this system. I have no experience with this style ignition on a Techy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #79 Posted September 28, 2021 Is that why there is a solenoid installed then? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,950 #80 Posted September 28, 2021 No. I think the solenoid was added when they decided not to replace the heavy duty starter button...or had something to do with the winch shown in one of your other pictures. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #81 Posted September 28, 2021 After hearing feedback from several other members I think the best thing to do would be to remove the solenoid and go with the somewhat stock setup I already ordered that big fancy switch that they sent me a picture of that'll be in here in a couple days and then I can start wiring things. As long as that won't be an issue that's my route. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #82 Posted September 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Jimdad85 said: I think the best thing to do would be to remove the solenoid and go with the somewhat stock setup I think the best thing to do is rip out ALL the wiring, except from under the flywheel, and start fresh. Following the wiring diagram when possible, and adapting for the ignition system. Someone here would be able to walk you through it I'm sure. Incorporating fuses in ALL the proper places. As per @pfrederi's cautions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #83 Posted September 28, 2021 I think im going to keep the s/g as well. I will remove every wire, except the ones on the motor. Follow the diagram...full send. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #84 Posted September 28, 2021 We did decide that this is a Tecumseh hh100, which is a 10 horse motor am I correct?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #85 Posted September 28, 2021 (edited) I believe so. HH100 = 10 HP Edited September 28, 2021 by Gregor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #86 Posted September 28, 2021 If the shroud actually belongs with that block, which I'm not really sure at this point because nothing else on that tractor seems to have came on it lol then it is indeed a 10 horse according to what I'm seeing but she can be bored out 20 over I'm not too sure how much more horsepower that will give me for pulling but I believe I'll have to remain in the 12 under class Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #87 Posted September 28, 2021 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Jimdad85 said: she can be bored out 20 over I'm not too sure how much more horsepower that will give me Not enough to make it worth the cost. Bored means new piton, rings, gaskets, etc, etc, etc........ Plus the machine shop cost. If it runs decent....."Run what ya brung !" Besides, you are talking Tecumseh here. Everything you may need, may not be readily available. HH100 .020 over piston and rings, $125.00 Maybe cheaper if you can find it on ebay https://www.partstree.com/models/hh100-115000d-tecumseh-engine/ Edited September 28, 2021 by Gregor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #88 Posted September 28, 2021 Where I come from we just say full send. Same thing. Rewiring in the morning.. ALL New wires. Fresh fuel and a little funny dance.... Its going to be a good day, just gonna send it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #89 Posted September 28, 2021 Piston diameter 10 HP...3.308..........12 HP....3.495. Thats a bit more than .020 Stroke...............10 HP...2 3/4"...........12 HP....2 7/8" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #90 Posted September 28, 2021 It would be fun to do tho. To tinker. Plenty of compression as of now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #91 Posted September 28, 2021 Just now, Jimdad85 said: It would be fun to do tho. To tinker. Plenty of compression as of now Yeah, I do like to tinker. Sometimes I over tinker. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #92 Posted September 28, 2021 Thats exactly what i need for rims. My backs are a 4 bolt and my fronts are a 5 bolt..very stout i must say. I need no larger than 12s on the back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #93 Posted September 29, 2021 Following this diagram, the only place i get confused is the coil on my machine has the spark boot and a yellow wire attached to the crank case. The diagram shows different. On my machine the ign sw had a wire running from battery to switch, switch to crank case ground..with the yellow coil wire.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #94 Posted September 29, 2021 Any secrets for the dried up cork that once sealed my sight bowl..took it apart to dump the water and rust out🙄. Boy she leaks good. Thought it would be cool to keep that bit of nostalgia Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,866 #95 Posted September 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Jimdad85 said: Any secrets for the dried up cork that once sealed my sight bow Tractor Supply carries rebuild kits for sediment bowls. Incudes a new gasket and screen. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #96 Posted September 29, 2021 Oh thats great!! Thank you 10 minutes ago, Achto said: Tractor Supply carries rebuild kits for sediment bowls. Incudes a new gasket and screen. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,866 #97 Posted September 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Jimdad85 said: Following this diagram, the only place i get confused is the coil on my machine has the spark boot and a yellow wire attached to the crank case. Didn't we establish that you had a Tecumseh?? Sorry, been absent on the thread. If you have a Techy, Then the above diagram for the engine ignition wiring will not work. A Techy should have a magneto style ignition coil. There will be no switch power to the coil, (and never ever run power to a magneto) there will be a wire running from the "M" terminal on the switch to the coil. This term will have continuity to ground when in the "OFF" position and be open to ground when in the "RUN" position. The switch grounds out the coil in the "OFF" position to kill the engine. Pretty much the same set up if you have a Briggs & Stratton. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #98 Posted September 29, 2021 So they are saying that someone has added a coil to the techy d think the magneto may still be behind the fly wheel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #99 Posted September 29, 2021 (edited) On 9/28/2021 at 1:38 PM, Jimdad85 said: never mind. I am, lost........... Edited September 29, 2021 by Gregor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimdad85 12 #100 Posted September 29, 2021 Not my intention at all im sorry. The coil thats on it now has a spark boot and a wire going to a ground on the block. There is an additional wire at the same ground going to the ign switch(plunger) and on the other side of the plunger is a wire that went to the battery..not sure what side..it is red but that means squat..i dont believe u would send 12v to a grounding point..let alone the coil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
