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RJ Hamner

I Don't Think This Is What They Had In Mind When They Said Put Some Spark In Your Life

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RJ Hamner

I had wired the tractor according to the wiring diagram (I thought) and have been waiting on some parts to finish.

Everything was ready to go except the ground wire connected to the battery.

As I was looking at my handy work I thought that the ground wire would look better if I moved it to the other side of the fuel line.

In the process of moving the wire it touched the negative post on the battery......ZAP SPARKS!!!:scared-eek:

 

Got out the diagram (see photo) and retraced the wires from the regulator (see next photo) to the switches in the dash (see last photo)

Everything looked like it is where it is supposed to be.

The only thing that I am not 100% sure of is the wire that comes out the bottom of the regulator and to which terminal on the starter/generator (hard to see in the picture, it's on the right terminal)

I thought I had it on the correct terminal. That wire does not appear on the wiring diagram.

Could that be the problem? or is there something I missed??

Will appreciate any and all help

Bob

 

DSC_1158.JPG

DSC_1154.JPG

DSC_1155.JPG

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pfrederi

Your S/G and regulator are wired correctly.  The wire from the terminal under the regulator to the A on the genny doesn't show on WH wire diagrams it is a Kohler part...\

 

Edit How is your solenoid hooked up?? 

 

EDIT 2  Your wires are way to light.  The wire from the switch (S Start terminal) to the A terminal on the genny should at a minimum be 6ga Same with Battery+ to switch

 

Edit 3  The idiot light it is the correct type?  The socket is not grounded to the dash.  Only connectivity is S and I terminals...

 

Edit 4  Assuming ignition switch was off sparking may have been caused by a faulty cutout in the regulator.(Cutout  breaks connection with battery when genny isn't putting out)  Was it working OK in the past or did the battery go dead a lot.

Edited by pfrederi
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squonk

I agree with Paul. If there is no solenoid the wire powering you switch and the wire to the generator from it need to be at least #6. I did a test on my engine stand when I was testing out some starter generators and inrush current was 82 amps and leveled out at 65 amps when cranking

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squonk

I agree with Paul. If there is no solenoid the wire powering you switch and the wire to the generator from it need to be at least #6. I did a test on my engine stand when I was testing out some starter generators and inrush current was 82 amps and leveled out at 65 amps when cranking. 

 

You could try unhooking the regulator and then connecting the ground. If the spark is gone the regulator is most likely faulty

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pfrederi

I use this stuff for the Battery to switch and switch to genny.  It is a bit pricey but it is as flexible as wet noodle.  the stuff you get at most auto parts places is super stiff and hard to connect to the switch and route...

 

 

wire.JPG

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RJ Hamner
1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

Your S/G and regulator are wired correctly.  The wire from the terminal under the regulator to the A on the genny doesn't show on WH wire diagrams it is a Kohler part

 

 

That is the way it was wired when I bought the tractor

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

Edit How is your solenoid hooked up?? 

 

This is my first time with a starter/generator tractor.  I know there should be a solenoid of sorts but nothing looks familiar that's why I went step by step with the diagram

 

I'm not really an electrician.  I have a few burn marks to prove it

 

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

EDIT 2  Your wires are way to light.  The wire from the switch (S Start terminal) to the A terminal on the genny should at a minimum be 6ga Same with Battery+ to switch

I wondered about that.  Most of the diagrams list a wire size this one has nothing


Edit 3  The "idiot light" was only connected the way it shows in the diagram.  No third wire but wouldn't the light being "clamped" to the dash be enough?

Edit 4  The switch was in the OFF position (switch is new) when this happened.

When I bought the tractor I started it drove it around to make sure the hydro was OK and drove it onto the trailer.  Got home and drove it into the shed and then when I finished the prior project put it on the lift.  The battery seemed OK at the time

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RJ Hamner
1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

I use this stuff for the Battery to switch and switch to genny.  It is a bit pricey but it is as flexible as wet noodle.  the stuff you get at most auto parts places is super stiff and hard to connect to the switch and route...

 

 

wire.JPG

Who's catalogue/website is the?  I have some #6 but it a real bear to try to route and bend

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RJ Hamner
1 hour ago, squonk said:

I agree with Paul. If there is no solenoid the wire powering you switch and the wire to the generator from it need to be at least #6. I did a test on my engine stand when I was testing out some starter generators and inrush current was 82 amps and leveled out at 65 amps when cranking. 

 

You could try unhooking the regulator and then connecting the ground. If the spark is gone the regulator is most likely faulty

I'm figuring on starting back to square one.  Looking at the diagram what gauge wire for the rest of the runs would you advise? Appreciate the help

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squonk

#6 wire from the battery to the switch and from the switch to the generator. Also # 6 from the battery ground to a clean non painted spot on the frame or engine. You would be surprised how a ohm reading can go from mega-ohms on a connection of a bolt screwed into an engine block to ohms with the surface the cable touches cleaned off. Personally I use #4 wire when I can. 16 ga. minimum for everything else unless you WANT to use the lighter. Then # 12 if you do use the lighter. #16 can handle the lights.

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pfrederi
1 hour ago, RJ Hamner said:

Who's catalogue/website is the?  I have some #6 but it a real bear to try to route and bend

 

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/#

 

 

 

You do  NOT want the idiot light to be grounded through the dash.  is it the original one?? Does it have two terminals on  it??

 

You do not need a solenoid as you have the heavy duty ignition switch but you do need the bigger wires.  Many guys want to put in a solenoid and it is certainly OK to do that .  I don't .. I like to live on the edge:P..It has worked for 50 + years I can deal with it.

Edited by pfrederi

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RJ Hamner

The idiot light does have two wires that go to the switch .  As far as I know it is original (looks old enough to be)

The switch is new and is the correct part number.

Since it was you I had figured it was McMaster Carr.  10 ft each be delivered tomorrow

I am going with 10awg since I have a roll and the extra terminals are on order

Lets just hope the regulator is still good.  But I figure Murphy will raise his ugly head and the gremlins have destroyed the regulator while I wasn't looking

 

Thanks for the help

Bob

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RJ Hamner
On 9/22/2021 at 3:59 PM, pfrederi said:

I use this stuff for the Battery to switch and switch to genny.  It is a bit pricey but it is as flexible as wet noodle.  the stuff you get at most auto parts places is super stiff and hard to connect to the switch and route...

The brown truck dropped off the #6 wires today

You sure were not kidding about being limp as a noodle

Thanks for the info

Bob

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RJ Hamner

Started the redo last night

Everything is either #6 or #10

Just have to run the new line to the coil

Did a "smoke check" and all is good:handgestures-thumbupright:

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squonk

So now it's not throwing sparks? 

 

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RJ Hamner

Nope

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Gregor

Maybe I am missing them, but I don't see any fuses anywhere. A fuse to the cigg lighter/lights would be good.

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squonk
10 hours ago, RJ Hamner said:

Nope

So you never found the source of the original spark issue then? 

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RJ Hamner

Yes I did and I couldn’t believe I did it

I don’t know how many times I checked and rechecked things the first time. And then to do the exact same thing on the redo. 
As luck would have it I caught it this time 

I had the wires backwards on the ign and the st terminals.

I rewired a 416-8 without too much trouble and to screw up a simple as pie project this bad is beyond belief. 

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RJ Hamner
8 hours ago, Gregor said:

Maybe I am missing them, but I don't see any fuses anywhere. A fuse to the cigg lighter/lights would be good.

There is an inline fuse that’s on the outside of the dash. 

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