Blower 6-6211 + 6-9111 "Restoration"

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

I was posting the details of this rebuild in another thread but I'm not sure it's getting much visibility, so I'm starting a new thread.  I have a couple questions I hopefully can get answers to...

 

Here's the original thread starting at post #49:

 

 

I've determined that it's almost definitely a 1969 6-6211 basic with 6-9111 completing package based on looking at ALL the manuals in the download section.  But none show exactly what I need to know about the 'rollers' for the chute.

 

I need to know if the 'wide' part of the rollers goes UP or DOWN. 

 

The pictures are not clear.  Some appear to show the two front ones with the wider part down and the two rear ones with the wide part up.  Some look like the wide part is UP on all four.  Some look like the wide part is DOWN on all four.

 

Does it really matter?  I would like to know what is "correct" though.

 

Then there's this question:

 

I would also ultimately like to modify the mounting arms to use the front Tach-A-Matic on my machine, rather than the holes through the frame.  I can modify the existing mounting bracket but would need some dimensions, and need to know if the 'angle' of the arms changes between the two different arms that were available.

 

This is the one from the 73692 model for the Tach-A-Matic mount:

 

(anyone got one of these that they would care to part with?)

 

 

And this is the one that I've got:

 

 

I'm thinking that 'cross piece' I've highlighted is going to hit the front Tach-A-Matic mount.  I really don't want to remove the mount to use the blower.

 

1.  Is the angle pointed to with the red arrows the same on both?

 

2. Is the distance from the end of the arms to the idler shaft the same on both?

 

3. What is the distance from the end of the arms to the rod that sits in the Tach-A-Matic on the newer arm assembly?

 

From an earlier post in my other thread by @pfrederi it appears that the idler shaft is the same distance.  It's not clear if there's an angle difference although it doesn't appear that there is.

I've noted the dimensions shown in Paul's post, but would like to be "right on" if possible.  I only want to make the bracket once!  

 

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

 

]

Edited September 21, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[pfrederi 17,741]

Difference between bolt on and tachmatic blower mounts

 

 

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

8 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Difference

 

Thanks Paul...  It appears that the tape is a bit past the end here?

 

 

 

And I can't really tell here:

 

 

I'd like to get this as close as possible to 'stock' dimensions!

 

 

Edited September 21, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

@pfrederi

 

This is what I've got from your photos, is it 'close enough' ?  or ???

 

Edited September 21, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[peter lena 8,639]

@pfrederi, that spring tension pulley frame really works well with chassis grease in the solid rod mount holes , initially run setting up mine , went after every movement point , with  lubrication and made it faster and easier using as I  went along . added a teflon ring under the chute base area , swivels with total ease . pete 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Took those pics a few years ago.  If it doesn't rain tomorrow will see if I still have the brackets

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

Well........  just did some test fitting.

 

The OLD style frame will NOT work at all with the Tach-A-Matic on the front of the frame.

 

The cross bar on the frame hits the Tach-A-Matic, and the mounting holes through the frame are 'almost' there.  But does not go back far enough.

Also, even if it DID fit, the blower arms would hit the hood hinge bolts just above the arm.  I believe the cross bar would also contact the bottom of the hinges.

There would probably be major carnage if that happened.

 

 

 

So, I HAVE TO modify the frame to use the Tach-A-Matic.

 

ALSO there's another issue.  The idler arm rod is too short!  It would hit the hood when the blower is raised.  More carnage.

 

And the idler pulleys won't line up with the PTO pulley.

 

 

So I need to do a few things.

 

1. Modify the mounting arms.  Cut out the spacer bar and drill the arms and weld in a 3/4" [edit: 5/8"] rod in that approximate location in order to use the Tach-A-Matic.

   Once I remove the cross bar I can run the frame bolt through and get the location of where the holes for the Tach-A-Matic go very easily.

 

2. Modify the idler arm bracket to lengthen the distance between the spring arm and the pulley arm.

@pfrederi can you do me a huge favor and measure the distance on this one please?  I bet it's 1-1/2" more than on mine!

Looks like an easy fix there... just cut the rod and splice in a piece of 1/2" ID tubing to lengthen that part.

 

 

And FINALLY...  I am still wondering if there's going to be an issue with the length of the LIFT ROD?

 

@DCwom

 

 

Edited October 13, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

7 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

see if I still have the brackets

 

If you do... and you don't need the 'newer' one any longer, I know someone who might be interested in buying!  (along with the newer idler arm bracket if it's "surplus to your needs")  

 

I'm also in the market for two of the 'side wings', I didn't get those with this blower.  I can make those if needed of course.

[pfrederi 17,741]

First aren't tachmatic cross rods 5/8 not 3/4

 

Green arrow dimension for the idler is 2-1/2" (from your pic above)

Center of Tachmatic cross rod to first bolt on blower 10-1/2:

Center of tachmatic cross rod to the top of the bend 9-1/2"

Center of Tachmatic cross rod to idler cross rod 3-1/2"

 

Don't know what happened to bolt thru bracket I had (Those pics were few years old.) Some new pics with a ruler

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

On 9/22/2021 at 1:44 PM, pfrederi said:

First aren't tachmatic cross rods 5/8 not 3/4

 

Green arrow dimension for the idler is 2-1/2" (from your pic above)

Center of Tachmatic cross rod to first bolt on blower 10-1/2:

Center of tachmatic cross rod to the top of the bend 9-1/2"

Center of Tachmatic cross rod to idler cross rod 3-1/2"

 

Don't know what happened to bolt thru bracket I had (Those pics were few years old.) Some new pics with a ruler

 

 

Yes, I mis-tyhped when I said 3/4".  I have some 5/8" stock also.  I edited the previous mistake.

 

This is exactly what I needed!  You are so awesome for doing this my friend!  I REALLY appreciate you taking the time to measure.

 

I spent most of the day taking the old bracket apart and cleaning up where the cross piece was welded in.  Thank God for Dremel and Sawzall !

 

I built a sacrificial wooden frame to hold the sides parallel when I weld up.

 

Now that I have dimensions I can drill some holes!  Need to do some drill bit sharpening too... my 5/8" bit has seen better days for sure!

 

Did I say THANK YOU?  

Edited October 13, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

Ready to weld'erup:

 

 

I know the stock unit for the newer blowers doesn't have the cross bar, only the Tach-A-Matic rod, but since I had the one I cut off I figured that it would not hurt to add a little more strength.

 

And done... still need to cut off the excess on the arms, and of course some cleanup on my 5h1tty welds, and then repaint.

 

 

Tomorrow I'll lengthen the idler arm.  

 

@pfrederi reports that his is 2-1/2" and the one that I have is 1-3/8" .  That 2-1/2" dimension will be a tad short but gives me the option of adjusting the belt idlers with spacers to align the belt.  Better too short than too long!

 

VERY close to re-assembling this mess !

 

@DCwom

Edited September 24, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[peter lena 8,639]

@Jeff-C175 glad to see you making out on that frame issue , would suggest a way to flow down those welds , its all temp and flow rate . have a neighbor that welds ? worked with a pipefitter for years , did a lot of " tacking " for him , on weld set up work , he very quickly corrected my similar  globing work , the mistake is the speed that you are trying to use, and the heat setting is too low , for smooth setting . practice on old broken work , make a change at every chance . gain on each correction .  good luck , pete 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

10 hours ago, peter lena said:

good luck

 

Thanks Pete.  The welds are actually better than the picture shows.  What you see in that photo is the tack weld that I put in to hold the cross bar so I could move the work to different positions for easier access.  Most of the other welds are pretty good actually.  The important ones on the 5/8 rod look great, my best yet in fact.

 

But you are correct, I do have a tendency to move too quickly and not get good penetration.  Most of that problem is due to the fact that I can't really see what I'm doing very well.  I do much better outdoors in the sun, but even then it's a bit of a problem.  I need to get one of those super bright work lights.

 

I'm slowly remembering what I learned in shop class some 50 odd (very odd!  What a long strange trip it's been!) years ago, but that was gas and stick welding then and not this fancy flux core stuff!

 

I'm going to clean up my work and redo one or two of them today.

Edited September 23, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

@peter lena  I took my time and think I did much better... of course the paint hides multiple sins! 

 

I cut the 1/2" rod on the idler bracket and extended it to the 2-1/2" that @pfrederi informed by splicing in a piece of 1/2" ID steel tube.  Now it appears that this will line up perfectly with the belt coming off the PTO.

 

 

This one didn't need any 'touching' afterward except for the wire brush of course:

 

 

Here's the completed mounting frame in full:

 

 

I think instead of rebuilding a snow blower I should be building an ARK!  Raining like crazy here!

 

 

 

 

Edited September 23, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[peter lena 8,639]

@Jeff-C175, much better on that weld , glad you found the " feel "  of that tack and finish weld . practice more on junk , so your starting tack has your feel for a good solid burn , pete

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

I started re-assembling the brute this evening.

 

Got the auger re-mounted, the idler sprockets installed, and temporarily installed the jack shaft and bearings so I could check chain alignment.  Looks good...  I'm not going to cut down the new shaft until I get the blower installed on the tractor and even then I'm going to leave several inches extra, "Justin Case" I bugger up one of the keys by hitting a frozen dead racoon under the snow.  I can just slide the shaft over at that point since it's keyed full length.  I might not even cut it at al!

 

Mounting the auger was easiest if I stood the housing on end, stood the auger inside, greased up the shaft and slid it home.  Was a bit of a PITA to get the shaft through the opposite bearing but I got it after some cussing.

 

This thing churns like butter!  It oughta with all new bearings!

 

I mentioned in another post about the fact that the IPL shows only ONE thrust washer at either end of the auger and this one had TWO, but there was a heckuva lot of end play so I ended up selecting washers to take that excess play out.  There was almost a quarter inch!  Two fat 3/4" washers, one on each end did the trick, along with the stock washer.  The added washers were about 0.110" thick.  I have about 0.060" inch of end play in the auger now.  I think that's fine.

 

QUESTION:  How tight should the chain be?  I know not super tight... but how loose is too loose?  

 

I'll put up some pics tomorrow.

 

[peter lena 8,639]

@Jeff-C175 about a 1/2" at longest  stretch , rotate it in as you set up, also expect to  touch that up as you run it , keep it lubricated and adjust as needed . once set its usually good for a long time . its the detailing that  makes your stuff run  with ease, pete

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

3 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Jeff-C175 about a 1/2" at longest  stretch , rotate it in as you set up, also expect to  touch that up as you run it , keep it lubricated and adjust as needed . once set its usually good for a long time . its the detailing that  makes your stuff run  with ease, pete

 

Too bad WH didn't put a screw adjuster on these.  I'm struggling to hold the adjustment when I tighten the adjustment bolt.

 

Thinking about some sort of wedge in between the sprockets.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

You've come a long way baby!

 

 

 

Edited September 24, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[pfrederi 17,741]

I see that the lift pin is not centered on the blower housing...  one of mine has the off center and one is exactly centered.  No model numbers legible any more.  Wonder when they made the change.  i assume it was done to make the unit lift more evenly. ,  other ideas/assumptions???

[Handy Don 12,237]

9 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

frozen dead raccoon under the snow

I've hit the newspaper twice. Mess and new shear pins. Yuck.

 

15 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

lift pin is not centered

Two thoughts: clearance/alignment under the tractor and weight distribution. Put a piece of dowel under the ready-to-mount blower and I'll bet it balances pretty close to that lift pin (though that extra shaft will throw it off a bit )

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

8 hours ago, pfrederi said:

ideas/assumptions

 

I got nuthin!  Except, I read something about removing flat washers from the lift flag rod if the rod contacts the front axle when the blower is raised.  Maybe they moved it over to prevent mashing the  grease zerk into a pancake?

 

Don's balance theory is plausible too.

 

I'm not 100% certain that this unit is all original, but it would be a 1969 if it is.  It could be a newer shell with mixed and matched parts, there's no model tag on it.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

11 hours ago, Handy Don said:

that extra shaft

 

It does look silly, doesn't it? 

 

I'm gonna cut it down eventually.  Unless I can think of something else to run off it!  Maybe I'll put a grinding wheel on the end! 

 

Just got back from Tractor Supply with a pound of assorted grade 8 hardware.  Not a bad deal for $5.49!  Better than 4 flatwashers in a bag for $1.99 !

Edited September 25, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

I got curious about something else...  The green arrow area is OPEN to the inside.  I wonder if this is some sort of air 'intake'?  When that auger comes 'round with a snoot full of snow I could see it creating low pressure right at that area.  

 

 

Do y'all think that this opening pulls air in as the snow is pushed out?

 

Might be fun to stick your finger in there while it was running!  Owwweeee!  That would smart.

 

Maybe you could use it as a chipper/shredder for small twigs? 

 

I'm having some difficulty getting the chute to turn smoothly.  Haven't quite figured out what's going on yet but I suspect that it has something to do with the 'bendage' that I partially repaired.  You can see in the pic above that I didn't get it all out.  It's much better but take a look at the 'shelf' above the shaft.  It's about 1/4" higher on the left.  I'm going to pull the chute and put it on a piece of flat steel and see if it 'rocks', it may have gotten bent in whatever mishap bent the shell.  I didn't find any flesh, bone or cartilage when I was cleaning it up so it probably wasn't 'that' !  

 

 

Edited September 25, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

I liked @MikMacMike idea of using heater hose on the shaft instead of fitting a 'spool' that the later models used.

 

I went with a bigger diameter hose though.  I had a scrap of this leftover from a job.  It's 5/8" ID but really heavy wall.

 

The shaft of course is 1/2" and I found that 1/2" ID clear vinyl hose fit snug inside the heater hose and snug on the shaft.

 

So I put that on first, then the heater hose over that.  Needed a little soap to get it on there.

 

I got the binding chute fixed up, it was bent a little caddy wompus so I straightened that out and it turns without binding now.

 

I've got a length of 1/16" stainless wire rope that I'm going to use, but as a test I used some Dacron rope.

 

Turns smooth as a baby's hiney!  And that's without any grease on the rollers... when I do the final assembly I'll grease 'em up good and it will be even smoother.

 

Home stretch now!

 

 

@DCwom  @peter lena @pfrederi @Ed Kennell @Handy Don

Edited September 25, 2021 by Jeff-C175