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Searcher60

K301 fuel pump leaking oil???

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Searcher60

Hello. My 69 Electro K301 original metal fuel pump pumps fuel just fine.  However, it also leaks a TON of oil out where what looks like a steel pin goes thru the pump body? Any cure for this to keep this pump? Thanks guys. 

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ebinmaine

Contact Then And Now Automotive in Massachusetts. They sell rebuild kits for those.

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WHX??

Don't think that is gonna help him EB. Sounds like the pivot pin is worn in the pump body? That pin should be somewhat pressed in. The lever should hinge on the pin and not the pin in the body which sounds like is happening. 

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Searcher60
1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

Don't think that is gonna help him EB. Sounds like the pivot pin is worn in the pump body? That pin should be somewhat pressed in. The lever should hinge on the pin and not the pin in the body which sounds like is happening. 

 

 

You are exactly right. The pin had moved out. I drove it back in and peened it. However, I will be looking for a metal pump in better condition than mine, preferably with the priming lever. Thanks so much.

 

image.jpeg.d4fc6f6264d3c41f07a7c5571f41eefe.jpeg

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dmoore

Got a pic of a pump with a prime lever? Sounds like a great idea with todays gas evaporating out of the carb. Eliminate the long cranking time.

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953 nut
On 9/21/2021 at 12:34 PM, Searcher60 said:

I will be looking for a metal pump in better condition than mine, preferably with the priming lever.

1965 was the last year that Kohler put that type pump on Wheel Horses.

On other thing that could be contributing to the oil leak could be the crank case breather. If it is plugged the pressure in the crank case will look for an alternative escape point, in this case your fuel pump. The breather is one of the most overlooked maintenance items on an engine.

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squonk

Toss a plate over the fuel pump hole and install a Facet low pressure electric pump. Kill 2 birds with one pump.

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peter lena

@Searcher60 nice looking unit there, at this stage why not upgrade and correct that issue ?  personally have a low pressure facet type electric pump on one of my horses , solid running , but if you can only have original type . my choice would make that problem go away , pete

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ebinmaine
13 hours ago, dmoore said:

Got a pic of a pump with a prime lever? Sounds like a great idea with todays gas evaporating out of the carb. Eliminate the long cranking time.

 

30 minutes ago, squonk said:

Toss a plate over the fuel pump hole and install a Facet low pressure electric pump. Kill 2 birds with one pump.

 

Seems more and more the electric pump is the way to go. 

If you not into that, install a marine priming bulb. Couple, three squeezes and off you go.  

 

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peter lena

@dmoore   put a fuel check valve  VERTICALLY  between that fuel pump and carb , no drain back or evaporation , you are talking about a  6'  vertical  fuel run , very simple . have that set up on 3 kohler magnum engines , instant starts , minimal choke . works every time . EVIL ENERGY  FUEL CHECK VALVES , 5/16 SIZE . FITS SNUGLY  into a 1/4" clear vinyl fuel line , use dark green spring clamps . make up the swap line piece before , installation . just my own experience , to a regular problem , pete 

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dmoore

Peter I will try that advice! Let you know how it does.👍 Thanks bud!

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squonk

How is a check valve going to solve an oil leak? :confusion-confused: :confusion-confused: :angry-banghead:

Edited by squonk
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peter lena

@squonk  thank you for your incredible  insight , you are a true gem , rusty pete 

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squonk

Guys got an oil leak. You tell him to install a check valve.Brilliant!

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Jakeshorsetuff

Try calling Then and Now Automotive in MA they sell rebuild kits for these fuel pumps. 

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Edited by Jakeshorsetuff

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Jakeshorsetuff
On 2/25/2022 at 7:36 PM, dmoore said:

Got a pic of a pump with a prime lever? Sounds like a great idea with todays gas evaporating out of the carb. Eliminate the long cranking time.

 

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6B9EF8CA-1456-405E-BD61-7B5981954AA1.jpeg

B2B2B731-C5C0-4B9D-9C13-57794F3E456A.jpeg

660EFA45-C322-4740-809D-C079493FD5A1.jpeg

3FF9581C-B78A-45ED-BD37-ECB7FD2E1E90.jpeg

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Jakeshorsetuff
10 minutes ago, Jakeshorsetuff said:

 

CF2C158C-3180-43CA-8F32-31F0F057949C.jpeg

6B9EF8CA-1456-405E-BD61-7B5981954AA1.jpeg

B2B2B731-C5C0-4B9D-9C13-57794F3E456A.jpeg

660EFA45-C322-4740-809D-C079493FD5A1.jpeg

3FF9581C-B78A-45ED-BD37-ECB7FD2E1E90.jpeg

 

D6E04C24-6DC2-4536-9CE2-6AFD241D30DF.jpeg

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Searcher60
15 hours ago, squonk said:

Toss a plate over the fuel pump hole and install a Facet low pressure electric pump. Kill 2 birds with one pump.

 

I have the original ignition switch. I see no way to install an electric pump using this type switch. It’s actually breaks the battery cable between the battery and starter, there being no starter solenoid. Once started, you have to turn the key one notch counterclockwise in order to use the pto and lights. Remember, I also still have the magneto ignition, which does not require 12 volts on a coil. I know, I could install a newer ignition switch and starter solenoid, and then use an electric pump. But, I like keeping it original. 

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squonk

Here is how I would do it. I would tap off the wire that feeds the PTO switch. I would connect a relay to that wire so when you put the key switch to on. It will power the relay coil and close it's circuit. Then install a 5 amp fuse connector to the battery positive and one relay contact and then the fuel pump positive to the other relay contact. So with the switch On the relay coil powers up, the contacts close and the pump runs and then shuts off when you turn the key to off. I have a drawer full of relays I could send you with a wire diagram. Simple.

 

Another way would be install a separate toggle switch fed by the fuse connector. And install a red indicator light on the dash to tell  you the pump is on. You would have to remember to turn off the toggle  switch so the light would help remind you.

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ebinmaine

@squonk

Well done Mike. 

I'd like to see that schematic diagram and I do need to pick up a relay. Any particular thing to buy?

I assume a starter solenoid would actually work too?

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squonk
34 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@squonk

Well done Mike. 

I'd like to see that schematic diagram and I do need to pick up a relay. Any particular thing to buy?

I assume a starter solenoid would actually work too?

I could send you a relay. Common automotive one. A regular starter solenoid would draw more amps but would work. It would have to be continuous duty though.

Edited by squonk
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ebinmaine
13 minutes ago, squonk said:

I could send you a relay. Common automotive one. A regular starter solenoid would draw more amps but would work. It would have to be continuous duty though.

Is there such a thing as a relay that's metal on the outside?

Goes better with "old tractor"...

 

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squonk
7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Is there such a thing as a relay that's metal on the outside?

Goes better with "old tractor"...

 

I could dig up a Napa # that would work.

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ebinmaine
24 minutes ago, squonk said:

I could dig up a Napa # that would work.

No rush. I'd appreciate that.  

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squonk
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

No rush. I'd appreciate that.  

# AR102. 

12 V + to terminal #4.  Case is grounded. Pump wires to terminals 1&3

 

IMG_20220227_081431341.jpg.156bad7bfb2de90a67ee26fc9564d016.jpg

 

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