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BrianX128

Peerless 630 Brakes

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BrianX128

My old "Lawn Rov'r" has had an interesting few months lately. I thought the transmission blew up entirely a couple of years ago, it turned out after taking it apart and splitting the case and cleaning everything out that all the gears turned fine and there seemingly was no issue. Whenever I put it back together it still didn't want to move until I disconnected the cable to the brakes. It has this small disc like thing off the side of the transmission with no spring on it or anything to adjust the tension. I've just left the brakes unhooked as it seems to be "stuck".

 

I'll get pictures tonight when I get home from work, all I know it is said peerless 630 transaxle on the transmission. It's almost like something on the "disc" part of the brake is seized but I couldn't figure out how to free it. The cable that hooks to it puts enough tension on it even with the clutch / break combo pedal released it still keeps it from moving. Wasn't sure if anyone had ever had a similar issue. I realize pictures will help a lot more. It looks very similar to this, except mine has a "truck style" shifter going in it at 6 o'clock in that image with a small three bolt triangular housing hole for the shifter.

 

 transmission.PNG.35723d8d75d11fc446c292b05ae95b98.PNG

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gwest_ca

Sounds like the disc brake is seized. The round disc should turn inside the brake caliper. The disc is on a splined shaft and should be free to slide along the shaft. There is a friction pad on both sides of the rotor. They may be also seized to the rotor preventing it from turning.

If you download the pdf file you can enlarge the illustration. The brake is at the top of the page.

Soak the mounting bolts for a few days. You don't want to break any of them off. Maybe tap them with a hammer will help. They tend to seize to the aluminum case.

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BrianX128

I'll have to jack it up and take that wheel off, what is strange to me is it drives around fine with the cable disconnected. Maybe there is a spring or something that was meant to go between the cable and the hole which I think is #175 in that diagram. If it was seized but is directly connected to the input/output shaft somehow now that I'm thinking about it, I wouldn't have been able to mow the back yard with it the other day. Hopefully I'm just dumb and misplaced the spring, but I remember this just happening when it quit moving. It's not like I took the spring off and hooked the cable directly into the hole to try and tighten up the brakes more or anything that I can recall.

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gwest_ca

Maybe I picked the wrong transmission model. The tractor parts illustration shows a brake drum and brake band.

https://www.partstree.com/models/2-0230-800-toro-ranger-lawn-tractor-1973/6-000-brake-clutch-linkage-3/

 

What is the model number of your tractor?

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BrianX128

I'm almost positive the first one was right, I'm fairly certain there is a small disc sticking out the side and I don't remember a brake band like on my eaton hydro's

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BrianX128

Unfortunately it's rare. Almost can't find one online except for mine and one other guys on another forum. https://opencorporates.com/companies/us_in/197112-169 That is the only info you can find about the company, Heilman Enterprise.

 

rovr.PNG.de64e26c9f39c87205cf10ce1a71c349.PNG

 

 

Edited by BrianX128

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BrianX128

I found a picture that shows some of the transmission on the other guys post on another forum when he found his. Transmission is tilted too much in this picture, back pulley should be level.

 

rovr2.PNG.c6a08f446050d3c2295c12bd50526586.PNG

Edited by BrianX128

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gwest_ca

That definitely has the disc brake. You can see the rotor and the bottom bolts are the ones to remove to get the caliper off. Every moving part requires Never-seize plus on the mounting bolts.

Wheel Horse used the 635 transmission on the 1973 Ranger 700 and 800 models.

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BrianX128

So if I put this back on it doesn't seem to do anything. The disc spins but when this arm has tension it doesn't activate the brakes.

 

16322591216267716460975867392772.jpg.0b230418ec17f1c6e3c9e8d9fd5df909.jpg

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BrianX128

So I did some more research, I'm missing a dowel pin. That other pin may or may not be stuck, I'm going to take the caliper off and see if I can get that other pin unstuck if it is and use it to try and make a pin out of a bolt for the other side. I ordered a set of new pins and pads off e-bay that I think are the right replacement parts.

 

What I cant for the life of me figure out, is which way my bent piece of steel is supposed to be on the caliper. All the other models I see have the entire bent piece rotated counter clockwise a little over 180 degrees and the spring facing the back of the mower.

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BrianX128

Did end up getting this working, got new pads and new rods in the caliper and got it all cleaned up. The part that pushes against the rods needed to be angled from 10-4 with the pivot bolt up top and the spring pulling it towards the back which was not how I was trying to do it originally. Works great, just not sure if I need to loosen the double nut a bit so it doesn't drag if it doesn't pop back up the whole way. 

 

It's strange actually having brakes now.

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