How to put more tension on a drive belt?

[Jacob S 67]

Yes I got a new toro spring and it pulled great!! The belt slipped at the end. But I’m happy I got third and dead weight pulled 2700 pounds

[ebinmaine 68,283]

Excellent!

 

On one of my horses I did add a second spring INSIDE the original. Definitely helped. 

 

I'm not pulling in competition. Ours are worked on our acreage. 

Just check your class rules. 

[peter lena 8,720]

@Jacob S  hiding in plane sight , your cracked / rotted shift boot , is also is begging for replacement  , no one mentioned , rusty unlubricated linkage . in addition to getting a new spring , local h/w stores have them , or genuine toro / w/h spring . match up diameter and approximate length , go stiffer / stronger , aerosol lubricant to make the rust run out of every movement point . aerosol , red spray grease , with fine tube for tight spots . grease every available zerk fitting . combo of solid spring pull and free linkage , should be effortless , as well as very  smooth engagement , no jumping or related jerking . dare i ask ?  ever change the trans fluid ?. this is all basic maintenance  check looks that i do regularly . hope you find your binding linkage point , pete 

[ebinmaine 68,283]

@Jacob S

 

@peter lena raises some good points. 

Is the transmission fluid fresh?

Is the shift boot new?

Is the tractor stored where rain can't get it?

 

Another thing that popped into my head this morning is to be sure the pulleys themselves are rust free as possible. 

[Jacob S 67]

Ok will do, the transmission fluid is new and I keep it in a shed. I will get a new shifter boot to. Thank you everyone 

[Handy Don 12,451]

@Jacob S One other thought... You might be tempted to try some of the products called "belt dressing" to get the belt to have better grip. NOT a good idea. Those products are for belts that are under constant tension, not for ones used for clutch engagement as the ones on WHs are.

Good quality, Kevlar fabric-wrapped belts are the way to go for our tractors.

[Snoopy11 5,714]

5 hours ago, Jacob S said:

toro spring

Fogive me if someone else mentioned this... but if allowable, you can go with a different/higher ratio spring... and this will give you a much better pedal fell as well... 

 

Better be in good shape though... as with HellHorse... that clutch is JUMPING back up at you wanting to GO... 

 

Don

[ebinmaine 68,283]

5 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

Fogive me if someone else mentioned this... but if allowable, you can go with a different/higher ratio spring... and this will give you a much better pedal fell as well.

 

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

On one of my horses I did add a second spring INSIDE the original. Definitely helped

 

I've tried both one thicker spring and one stock, one added.  

 

[Snoopy11 5,714]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

I've tried both one thicker spring and one stock, one added.  

 

 

Don

[stevasaurus 22,857]

For sure, do NOT use any belt dressing on your drive belt!!!  Remember, the belt is made to slip.  That is your clutch.  If your belt doesn't slip at all, and you are pulling, you run the risk of breaking teeth on the gears in your differential.  

[Snoopy11 5,714]

10 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

For sure, do NOT use any belt dressing on your drive belt!!!  Remember, the belt is made to slip.  That is your clutch.  If your belt doesn't slip at all, and you are pulling, you run the risk of breaking teeth on the gears in your differential.  

Yes sir... I think you are 100% on the money here. I tend to question if this also applies to the clutch springs? Can you go too strong?

 

One thing I know... doing a free pull with Horsepower is different than pulling with weight attached. I will never use high gears when pulling weight... just too much risk involved.

 

Don

 

 

[stevasaurus 22,857]

One thing I know... doing a free pull with Horsepower is different than pulling with weight attached. I will never use high gears when pulling weight... just too much risk involved.

 

Don

 

The problem with that thinking Don...no matter what gear you are in, you are still using the same pinions and axle gears.  Those are the teeth that usually get stripped.  

[Snoopy11 5,714]

1 minute ago, stevasaurus said:

The problem with that thinking Don...no matter what gear you are in, you are still using the same pinions and axle gears.  Those are the teeth that usually get stripped.  

Interesting. I had no idea. 

 

I wonder at what point -- how much weight it would take with a non-slipping belt to do that kind of damage? 

 

Definitely not a test that I want to do... 

 

Don

[stevasaurus 22,857]

Think about one of the tests used to check a hydro when buying...ie...placing the front end up against a tree and letting out the clutch.  If the back tires spin, the hydro is good, but this is done on dirt or grass...not on concrete.    There is always a weak link in the chain...best it be a slipping belt I think.  

[Handy Don 12,451]

1 hour ago, Snoopy11 said:

I wonder at what point -- how much weight it would take with a non-slipping belt to do that kind of damage? 

 

To my mind, it isn't about weight, it's about torque.

The differential is intended to transfer a maximum amount of torque safely and then has some cushion for safety. Exceed that and "bang".

My guess is that with stock engines up to 20hp and a transmission in good condition, the engine will stall before breaking something if the load is applied smoothly. Above 20 hp or a shock load? All bets are off.

@stevasaurus you've seen busted gears. What caused them?

[stevasaurus 22,857]

It's hard to say, but two of the hardest things we do to these horses is plowing snow (hitting snow drifts in 3rd gear) and plowing fields.

[Snoopy11 5,714]

1 hour ago, stevasaurus said:

It's hard to say, but two of the hardest things we do to these horses is plowing snow (hitting snow drifts in 3rd gear) and plowing fields.

If I used third gear when plowing snow... I think I would definitely break something... 51 horses going to the rear end, with high speed... YIKES!!! 

 

Don