310-8 magnum flywheel shroud bolts!

[AHS 1,440]

Ok, let’s the pictures do the talking! 4 bolts; two on bottom 2 on the sides. 3 out of 4 broke. Steel bolt into cast.  I sprayed them with pb blaster. I was wondering what to do so that none of them break! There a fine line between drilling the out and breaking of a piece of the cast. (The motor) I’m all ideas!

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

I would keep spraying them and let them soak for a day or so, then use a punch if possible for a starting point to drill them out. That is a plate on the motor that could be replaced if things go south. Use a propane torch and put some heat on the aluminum, then spray will help too. 

 

 

 

Randy

[8ntruck 7,004]

Ouch!

 

Soak with penetrating oil of choice, then drill with a left hand drill?

 

Good luck.

[pfrederi 17,739]

Check out this tread several excellent ideas on this subject. I have used a dremel to get a centered divot to guide the drilling process

 

 

[gt14rider 760]

Just this same thing last week, get a helicoil from napa, did all 5. Put some loctite on coil. 

[8ntruck 7,004]

And maybe some anti-seize on the bolts when you put it back together.

[AHS 1,440]

17 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

And maybe some anti-seize on the bolts when you put it back together.

Oh ya! I use anti seize heavy! 

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

The story of my life........broken bolts that have rusted in.Sometimes,if enough of the broken bolt is sticking out,put a new nut over it and weld it on.Enough heat will go into the bolt to ease removal.Or carefully drill them out with the correct size tap drill  and run a threading tap into the hole and load up the new bolts with Never-seeze,like others have said.Just one of the joys caused by leaving machinery out in the elements.Good luck.Part of the " fun " of this hobby.

[953 nut 55,229]

7 hours ago, RandyLittrell said:

let them soak for a day or so,

Don't rush the process, a little penetrant twice a day for several days will help. Center punch, small drill at center, progressively larger bits up to 3/16" (or when you reach threads), use an awl or some sort of pick to gently move the threaded remains away from the engine, heat generated by drill may be helpful in breaking the dissimilar metal fusion.

[AHS 1,440]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

Don't rush the process, a little penetrant twice a day for several days will help. Center punch, small drill at center, progressively larger bits up to 3/16" (or when you reach threads), use an awl or some sort of pick to gently move the threaded remains away from the engine, heat generated by drill may be helpful in breaking the dissimilar metal fusion.

Yup! I expect penetrating oil in minutes, I knew it took several years to rust! But, I expect penetrating oil to do work in minutes, just like I do! I know, I know!!😀😞

Edited September 5, 2021 by AHS

[ebinmaine 67,497]

The folks above have given plenty of great advice. 

 

Here in Maine and much of the rest of the northern half of the country you can just plan on most things being rusted. 

 

I'd like to add 2 things for your future reference. 

 

 

Please. Get rid of the PB Blaster. 

Not to be trying to cause grief hate or discontent. 

There are quite a few penetrating fluids that are MUCH better. 

 

 

Also ... An EXCELLENT trick I learned from a car/truck tech many moons ago...

 

You can almost always TIGHTEN a rusty (nut/bolt/screw) but you can almost NEVER loosen it. 

 

Get in the habit of TIGHTENING all your fasteners when disassembling things. 

 

I know it sounds bassackwards but it... Works. 

 

Tighten. Just a tad. Loosen. Just a tad. 

Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. 

 

Start moving it a little more back and forth after a few times. Eventually most of them will come out instead of snapping. 

 

 

[Bill D 1,921]

Sorry to highjack this thread, but I had to share this.  This is a picture of a nut holding the wheel scraper assembly for an old corn planter.  This machine is rusted beyond repair and has been sitting outside for well over 60 years.  The nut came loose with no heat or penetrating oil, just a 12 inch adjustable wrench.  My Dad and I couldn't believe it.   Just thought I'd share this.

 

I have had the same issues on engines that you are having.  I was able to weld a nut to the bolt.  I then warmed up the aluminum with a propane torch and soaked it with penetrating oil.  I had to reweld the nut several times but eventually all the bolts came out.

[oliver2-44 9,750]

9 minutes ago, Bill D said:

Sorry to highjack this thread, but I had to share this.  This is a picture of a nut holding the wheel scraper assembly for an old corn planter.  This machine is rusted beyond repair and has been sitting outside for well over 60 years.  The nut came loose with no heat or penetrating oil, just a 12 inch adjustable wrench.  My Dad and I couldn't believe it.   Just thought I'd share this.

Years ago they used “white lead” as anti-seize. It last and works almost forever 

[Bill D 1,921]

3 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Years ago they used “white lead” as anti-seize. It last and works almost forever 

That explains it.  Thanks.

[AHS 1,440]

11 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

The folks above have given plenty of great advice. 

 

Here in Maine and much of the rest of the northern half of the country you can just plan on most things being rusted. 

 

I'd like to add 2 things for your future reference. 

 

 

Please. Get rid of the PB Blaster. 

Not to be trying to cause grief hate or discontent. 

There are quite a few penetrating fluids that are MUCH better. 

 

 

Also ... An EXCELLENT trick I learned from a car/truck tech many moons ago...

 

You can almost always TIGHTEN a rusty (nut/bolt/screw) but you can almost NEVER loosen it. 

 

Get in the habit of TIGHTENING all your fasteners when disassembling things. 

 

I know it sounds bassackwards but it... Works. 

 

Tighten. Just a tad. Loosen. Just a tad. 

Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. 

 

Start moving it a little more back and forth after a few times. Eventually most of them will come out instead of snapping. 

 

 

Yes! I am trying to get in the habit of that! Tightening before loosening!! I almost always works!!

[Handy Don 12,227]

On 9/4/2021 at 11:28 AM, pfrederi said:

I have used a dremel to get a centered divot to guide the drilling process

Great idea! Much easier to control.

 

16 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Years ago they used “white lead” as anti-seize. It last and works almost forever

It sure did the job. Too bad it did such a number on the workers handling it without realizing its long-term health impacts.

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

On 9/5/2021 at 5:39 PM, ebinmaine said:

 

 

 

Please. Get rid of the PB Blaster. 

Not to be trying to cause grief hate or discontent. 

There are quite a few penetrating fluids that are MUCH better. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Interesting.......I've been using PB Blaster for a few yrs now with pretty good results.I used to use Kroil.That worked well too.Have made a mixture of Marvel Mystery Oil and diesel fuel to unstick siezed engines.That worked too.What do you use Eric?

[ebinmaine 67,497]

5 minutes ago, Pollack Pete said:

.What do you use Eric?

There are several that I use and recommend. 

 

WD-40 brand PENETRATING oil. Not regular WD. 

 

Kroil is awesome but VERY expensive. 

 

I've switched over to good ole fashioned Liquid Wrench old formula. 

It's cheap. It's readily available. 

It works great. 

 

Annnddd HEAT. Torch. Whenever possible and safe. 

[pfrederi 17,739]

I have used all the penetrating oils mention here and some that were not. also candle wax and ATF/Acetone blend.   None work every time....When it finally frees up i am never sure which of the several i used on the stuck part worked...