John2189 454 #1 Posted August 28, 2021 I have a 656 with 10 hp tecky What would the original 6hp engine be? A Kohler or tecky? john Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #2 Posted August 28, 2021 Techy HH60 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 454 #3 Posted August 28, 2021 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: Techy HH60 Ok probably hard to find and if I do probably could not afford it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #4 Posted August 28, 2021 HH60 were made for many years and used in lots of equipment (I have a TroyBilt Horse tiller from teh late 60s with an HH60 ... My Lawn ranger has an HH70 They work great start quick...... aftermarket parts are still around..but unless you are looking for originality I would consider other engines... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 454 #5 Posted August 28, 2021 (edited) Yea I see a lot of predators on here The 10 hp still runs for now Edited August 28, 2021 by John2189 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,672 #6 Posted August 29, 2021 On 8/28/2021 at 2:16 PM, John2189 said: The 10 hp still runs for now Just curious to know what prompted your question. Does the Tecumseh 10 run poorly or do you have reason to believe it's life will be short? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 454 #7 Posted August 30, 2021 (edited) I was just curious. It’s still runs ok. The coil was bad, so I did the Ford brake sensor and gm hei unit. It works, but it back fires above 1/2 throttle, which is ok because it has a sms42 sickle mower on it, so it doesn’t need to run that fast. I just put new bushings and seal in the wobble box. I will probably end up selling it before long john Edited August 30, 2021 by John2189 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,672 #8 Posted August 30, 2021 5 hours ago, John2189 said: back fires above 1/2 throttle Gotcha. Running properly those are a great engine with gobs of torque in a small package. There are 2 predominant areas of concern and you've addressed one. The other is the carb. The backfire could be the timing being off. Perhaps a bent or sheared flywheel key. Maybe the sensor needs a slight adjustment. Could also be carb related. Incorrect/inadequate fuel can cause a wicked popping. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 454 #9 Posted August 30, 2021 I placed the sensor according to what The measurement was on the old coil, so I could slot the mounting holes a bit and try that. the carb didn’t look all that bad, so l cleaned it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,672 #10 Posted August 30, 2021 3 minutes ago, John2189 said: I placed the sensor according to what The measurement was on the old coil, so I could slot the mounting holes a bit and try that. the carb didn’t look all that bad, so l cleaned it. You're definitely headed the right direction. I don't have a heck of a lot of experience with the older Tecumseh engines. I was doing some research a few weeks ago about rebuilding the carburetor on Trina's Military Tribute Tractor which has an HH100, for now. I found some information saying that there was a change to one of the needles which realigned the holes. Some carbs have no problem at all and others just never run quite right once you take him apart and put them back together. It's because those holes become misaligned at reassembly. I've found multiple places online that say if you can't get the carburetor to agree with you and your general ways of thinking then you can replace it with a Kohler 8 horsepower carburetor and they basically bolt right up other than adjusting some linkage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 454 #11 Posted August 30, 2021 Thanks for the info. I have taken apart carbs before to find that previous po have put gaskets in upside down and blocking passages 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,918 #12 Posted September 1, 2021 Since these have fixed timing and no advance based on rpms, I’d first say that’s a fuel issue. Run it up there for a while, then shut it down at the same rpms for a plug read. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 454 #13 Posted September 1, 2021 3 hours ago, pullstart said: Since these have fixed timing and no advance based on rpms, I’d first say that’s a fuel issue. Run it up there for a while, then shut it down at the same rpms for a plug read. Ok I’ll try that. when I drilled the mounting and hole for the sensor, I tried to get it as close to the original coil as I could How much off would it take to get it out of time? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,918 #14 Posted September 1, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, John2189 said: Ok I’ll try that. when I drilled the mounting and hole for the sensor, I tried to get it as close to the original coil as I could How much off would it take to get it out of time? I’m not too familiar with the timing changes you made, but understand that a gap difference and a degree left or right can make a big change in performance. Edited September 1, 2021 by pullstart Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,672 #15 Posted September 1, 2021 31 minutes ago, pullstart said: I’m not too familiar with the timing changes you made, but understand that a gap difference and a degree left or right can make a big change in performance. I'll second that. It really does have to be close. Look up how to check ignition timing with a homemade kit using a 12v bulb (test light) as the indicator. @Gregor Did you ever get to fiddlin with a techie 10 or only small blocks? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #16 Posted September 1, 2021 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Did you ever get to fiddlin with a techie 10 or only small blocks? I have an 11 HP vertical shaft, but never had to time it. Just cleaned up the motor and carb. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,673 #17 Posted September 1, 2021 Could need a valve adjustment, if the intake valve is too close that will cause it to miss. Had that problem with a 12 HP Kohler Magnum. I haven't done that on a Techie, but I guess it like an old Briggs you have to grind off the valve stem. The first thing to do with a Techie is give the carb. a good cleaning, if that doesn't fix it then look for other problems. By good cleaning I mean soak it a day or two in carb. cleaner then poke at all the holes to see if they are open. I use guitar strings to check the holes, You have already changed the fire, but old Techies will run with less then half the fire it takes for other engines. A friend of mine tested the fire on Techies by touching the plug. If he could feel the charge up to his wrist it was good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites