Wheel Horse C-100 8 Speed Trans repair question

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

Well my $25 C-100 keeps looking worse each time I dig into it a little more.  So I drained the trans oil out and it wasn't rusty and looked relatively good...until pieces of a ball bearing were found in it...I went ahead and refilled it with a oil/gas mix just to do a flush and went ahead and lifted the rear end and spun the rear wheels over and sure enough you here a clicking sound on the right side(if you were sitting on it).  It goes through all gears and ranges well but has that click sound...so how big a job is taking the trans off and replacing that axle ball bearing? 

 

I looked up the part and the bearing is that 1533 one that is only to be had from wheelhorsepartsandmore.  Price isn't terrible so seems like a doable job...  I'm hoping to avoid having to take all the gears out if that is possible.  Would like to just split the halves...lay it on the left side and leave all gears and rods on that side, confirm the gears have no damage, and if that checks out just replace that ball bearing for the right axle side and then put it back together... is that doable or am I dreaming?

 

This tractor has a bad engine and a bad trans...was really hoping it would be one or the other...

[ebinmaine 67,593]

For $25 it's still a bargain with both the engine and transmission in need of repair.

 

What you want to do is technically doable provided the gears are all okay... But here's the thing...

 

It literally takes just a few minutes to pop the gears out and while you're in there you really should check the bearings that are holding the shafts that hold the gears. It would be straight up silly not to do so.

You should also replace the wheel bearings because you're going to have the drive shafts out and they are within easy access.

 

And of course the four seals, case half gasket, and shift boot. All those are a given anyway.

 

 

[stevasaurus 22,764]

Actually, you want to take off the left side and leave all the gears in the right or shallow side.  You can take it apart like you want to, but a couple of those shafts will wobble enough to make it next to impossible to put the other side back on.  You can do it the right way and still leave all the gears in if you think all is good, pull out the differential and use a bearing puller to pull out the #1533.  Make sure you account for all 12 balls in that bad bearing.  I found 1 or 2 inside my differential on my 702.  Here is a video that shows how easy this job is.

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,593]

18 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

Make sure you account for all 12 balls in that bad bearing

Actually Steve now that you bring it up... That by itself would be a good enough reason to lift the gears out for just a minute.

I've found roller bearings in transmissions that weren't missing any roller bearings. 

 

 

19 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

use a bearing puller to pull out the #1533. 

 

I learned a neat trick to do that from Lincoln at A to Z.

You can make a driver out of a large bolt and correctly size washers. Takes a little patience but I was successful and I've done it multiple times.

 

I can share a picture and dimensions later if you like.

 

 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I learned a neat trick to do that from Lincoln at A to Z.

You can make a driver out of a large bolt and correctly size washers. Takes a little patience but I was successful and I've done it multiple times.

 

I can share a picture and dimensions later if you like.

 

I think I'm following the idea here...did you also use it to press the new one in?  I did something similar a couple times to put the power steering pulley back on some old chevy 350's. 

[ebinmaine 67,593]

2 minutes ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

 

I think I'm following the idea here...did you also use it to press the new one in?  I did something similar a couple times to put the power steering pulley back on some old chevy 350's. 

In that particular case I had a bearing driver set on hand but if I don't have that with me I've been known to use an old bearing housing as the driver against the new bearing with an appropriate sized block of wood above it to span the bearing surface and absorb the impact of the hammer. 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

To also make this job more painful the hitch pin seems pretty seized.  I've been spraying it with penetrating oil here and there and tapping with a hammer some... It hasn't moved.  Obviously the two trans halves aren't coming apart with it in there.  Would a ball joint press work to get it out without damaging the trans housing?

Edited August 23, 2021 by OutdoorEnvy

[ebinmaine 67,593]

One of the lessons I had to learn and to be honest I still don't exactly remember every time is that it took 45 or more years for it to rust together and it's not going to come apart in 15 minutes.

 

That said, I guess it would depend on how the ball joint press was set up and if you could mount it correctly. Not sure on that one.

 

Heat is a good thing for you to use if you're going to be replacing seals and gaskets and repainting anyway.

 

Hammering on the end of the shaft is probably not the best idea because it's most likely going to mushroom the soft steel making it much much more fun for you to remove it.

 

 

[rmaynard 15,510]

Banging it with a hammer will only mushroom the pin. That will make it even harder to get it out if it does move at all. The best solution I've found is to cut the pin flush to the case on both sides using a sawzall. Then using small through progressively larger drill bits, drill the center out of the pin. The larger the hole, the easier it is to drive the pin out.

[stevasaurus 22,764]

Yep, cut it with a Sawzall, take the trans apart and then drill and press out the pieces.  You can buy the new metal at ACE and make it long enough to put in carter pins.  It beats the heck out of heat and wailing with a hammer.  The pin is soft metal and only takes a minute to cut.

[Ed Kennell 38,210]

47 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Banging it with a hammer will only mushroom the pin. That will make it even harder to get it out if it does move at all. The best solution I've found is to cut the pin flush to the case on both sides using a sawzall. Then using small through progressively larger drill bits, drill the center out of the pin. The larger the hole, the easier it is to drive the pin out.

Yes, but don't drill completely thru the pin.    Leave 1/2" at the bottom of the hole.     Then use a drift in the hole to drive the pin out.   You are now actually pulling and streching the pin as opposed to pushing and compressing the pin.

 

Oh, and always drill and drive from the right side toward the heavier side of the tranny lug.

[ebinmaine 67,593]

2 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

   You are now actually pulling and streching the pin as opposed to pushing and compressing the pin.

Now there's a concept I've not thought of.

 

[rmaynard 15,510]

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

Yes, but don't drill completely thru the pin.    Leave 1/2" at the bottom of the hole.     Then use a drift in the hole to drive the pin out.   You are now actually pulling and streching the pin as opposed to pushing and compressing the pin.

 

Oh, and always drill and drive from the right side toward the heavier side of the tranny lug.

Yup, I forgot that part. Good pick up.

[David414 289]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Actually Steve now that you bring it up... That by itself would be a good enough reason to lift the gears out for just a minute.

I've found roller bearings in transmissions that weren't missing any roller bearings. 

 

 

 

I learned a neat trick to do that from Lincoln at A to Z.

You can make a driver out of a large bolt and correctly size washers. Takes a little patience but I was successful and I've done it multiple times.

 

I can share a picture and dimensions later if you like.

 

 

I would really like to see those pictures please. Sounds interesting!

[Pullstart 62,905]

If you haven’t hit both ends with the hammer yet, you can use a pipe wrench on the mushroomed end to spin the pin.  It’ll break the rust free much easier than hitting it. 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

2 hours ago, pullstart said:

If you haven’t hit both ends with the hammer yet, you can use a pipe wrench on the mushroomed end to spin the pin.  It’ll break the rust free much easier than hitting it. 

 

I think I'll give this a try first and then go to cutting and drilling if needed.  I haven't mushroomed either side.  I actually have two pipe wrenches and think i can get off the pull hitch part with the way it's offset and then use a pipe wrench on each side.  That with maybe some heat may do the trick.  I will update when I give it a go. 

 

thanks for the comments all.  This tractor looks to be the complete learning guide for me...

[tunahead72 2,424]

10 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

...

 

I learned a neat trick to do that from Lincoln at A to Z.

You can make a driver out of a large bolt and correctly size washers. Takes a little patience but I was successful and I've done it multiple times.

 

I can share a picture and dimensions later if you like.

 

Yes, please. 

 

[ebinmaine 67,593]

6 hours ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

This tractor looks to be the complete learning guide for me...

This is a good thing. 

[ebinmaine 67,593]

13 hours ago, David414 said:

I would really like to see those pictures please. Sounds interesting!

 

7 hours ago, tunahead72 said:

 

Yes, please. 

 

 

 

I don't have an open transmission right now to demonstrate exactly where the bolt goes.

If you look at the picture below you'll see the bolt I use. 

 

Basically what you do is either flip the wing nut upside down or use one of the other nuts and put it right at the top end of the bolt or threaded rod.

You'll be tapping on that end so it keeps it from banging up the threads.

 

With the differential removed I put the bolt from the inside out through the housing where the axle goes out to the outer wheel bearing.

 

The washer that I have called out with a red arrow should fit through, and then, just behind the inner wheel bearing. The 1533 ball bearing.

 

You just give it a little tap on one side and slowly work your way around the circle a couple times and it will usually loosen things up a little. Keep repeating this with slightly increasing tapping pressure.

As you work your way around in the circle the 1533 bearing will gradually come out.

 

I've done this four or five times now and been successful.

 

I'm not sure I would recommend doing this on a bearing that you are trying to save... I have, and it worked okay but you do run the risk of separating the inner bearing shell from the outer bearing shell.