Drive belt doesn't disengage engine pulley

[Bach-Ed 170]

Just for the record my tractor has a belt guard.  But If I had it on you wouldn't see a thing in the pictures.   The original K series motor had a wire  near the pulley.  But the CH can't use that wire.

[pfrederi 17,851]

16 minutes ago, Bach-Ed said:

Just for the record my tractor has a belt guard.  But If I had it on you wouldn't see a thing in the pictures.   The original K series motor had a wire  near the pulley.  But the CH can't use that wire.

 

 

If with a new wrapped belt you still have problems i would look at bending some rod to make a guide.  There are holes in your engine block that you can use.  or you can weld a tab as used in later models on the bottom of your belt guard.

 

 

[ebinmaine 68,162]

28 minutes ago, squonk said:

I'm m going to quote you Eric! 

 

I took this engine out of what looked to be an un-molested 702 and there is a wire on it.

 

Very interesting... 

[Bach-Ed 170]

That looks like a good idea to add to the lower flange.

[953 nut 55,715]

Your belt guard needs to support the slack when the clutch is depressed. The wire retainer on the engine pully is there to keep the belt from coming off the engine pully. The tab on the idler helps the belt to stop when there is slack but the lower guard rail does the majority f the work.

[Snoopy11 5,714]

8 hours ago, Bach-Ed said:

this was with the guard in place

Hey guys, just got back from taking Gracie to the vet. stevasaurus-(Moderator)  told me earlier that the belt guard on the engine was in place on this build. My bad if I gave out info that Bach-ed already knows.

 

Sorry again guys,

 

Don

[Bach-Ed 170]

I am here to declare a victory!  I went and ought a green NAPA belt and installed it.  Replaced the guard.  And Oh no It didn't fix it.   Then thinking about what was said, I installed this bolt. into a mounting hole on the engine.   TA DA and all is well.  It just clears when the belt is engaged.

It is a little grabby when I release the clutch, I'll learn the sweet spot.  Now I have to go back and fix the it dies on the hill problem.

[ebinmaine 68,162]

1 hour ago, Bach-Ed said:

grabby

Glad to hear you're headed the right direction. 

 

Is there any rust on the pulleys?

[pfrederi 17,851]

Your belt guard was hacked off considerably.  In addition to you bolt you may want to fabricates a wire support at the bottom of the pulley similar to this

 

 

[Bach-Ed 170]

pfrederi I think I will take you up on that.   Especially after how the PO wacked that guard off.

ebinmaine about rust in the pulleys do you mean on the wear surface of the pulleys?

[ebinmaine 68,162]

4 minutes ago, Bach-Ed said:

surface of the pulleys

Yep. The surface the belt contacts. 

If the pulleys are rusty they won't allow slippage which is your effective clutching action. 

 

[Snoopy11 5,714]

4 hours ago, Bach-Ed said:

I am here to declare a victory!  I went and ought a green NAPA belt and installed it.  Replaced the guard.  And Oh no It didn't fix it.   Then thinking about what was said, I installed this bolt. into a mounting hole on the engine.   TA DA and all is well.  It just clears when the belt is engaged.

It is a little grabby when I release the clutch, I'll learn the sweet spot.  Now I have to go back and fix the it dies on the hill problem.

Glad to hear it! Yeah, I had the same issues there when I started fiddling with mine, and hope that anything we said here helped you!

 

If you have any more issues with your belt, go over and try this mod that I shared...

 

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,714]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Yep. The surface the belt contacts. 

If the pulleys are rusty they won't allow slippage which is your effective clutching action. 

 

Wish you had said that sooner about the rust eb... I went though about 8 or more belts before I figured that out on my own... 

 

Don

[slim67 2,735]

On 8/23/2021 at 6:55 PM, 953 nut said:

Your belt guard needs to support the slack when the clutch is depressed. The wire retainer on the engine pully is there to keep the belt from coming off the engine pully. The tab on the idler helps the belt to stop when there is slack but the lower guard rail does the majority f the work.

I was asking about that on another thread as it seemed like a braking device more than a belt guide. Thanks for posting that.

[Handy Don 12,418]

And for goodness sake, PLEASE be careful polishing the rust off those pulleys!

I use strips from a roll of cloth-backed emory paper (in the plumbing section at HD or other) backed by a piece of old clothesline cord. That way I can keep my fingers well away from the spinning part when I am buffing.

[953 nut 55,715]

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

I use strips from a roll of cloth-backed emory paper (in the plumbing section at HD or other) backed by a piece of old clothesline cord. That way I can keep my fingers well away from the spinning part when I am buffing.

              Supposed to do it with the engine off and the key in your pocket!                  

[Handy Don 12,418]

21 hours ago, 953 nut said:

              Supposed to do it with the engine off and the key in your pocket!                  

Surely I agree when there is a belt or chain involved or you don't have open and clear access. In those cases, I've regularly removed the pulley and set-screwed it to a short piece of bar chucked in the drill press. For a bare pulley with no PTO or other mechanism around it, I view it just like sanding a piece on my wood lathe.

I also sometimes use a stiff-bristle brush to push the (fine) emory paper against the pulley or lathe piece (keeping fingers well away).

(I can report abject failure trying to use a wire brush directly--scratched the heck out of the pulley making it unusable!)