WHX?? 48,762 #51 Posted March 4, 2022 (edited) 9 hours ago, Achto said: You could use a caliper for this as well but it won't be quite as accurate. Maybe that's why my measures suck! I usually measure in 100 different spots and come with somethin different every time. Yes plastigage can even be used by an idiot like me. I would tell you to measure the bore but I suck at that too! I am stupid enough to check ring end gaps so that I would recommend. Edited March 4, 2022 by WHX?? 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,502 #52 Posted March 4, 2022 42 minutes ago, WHX?? said: I would tell you to measure the bore If your using a cast piston the factory specs for piston to cylinder clearance is .007" to .010". In the machining world this is like saying some where between a closet door and a garage door will be close enough. If your using a billet or hypereutectic piston the cylinder to piston clearance tightens up to around .0034" to .0051" or .0045" to .0062". Not certain on these clearances as the manual does not list a clearance for a K241 with a higher quality piston. All these clearances seem large to me. I'm used to .001" to .0015" clearance per inch diameter of the piston when using a cast piston and .0005" clearance per inch diameter of the piston for hypereutectic pistons. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,762 #53 Posted March 4, 2022 (edited) You TOTALLY lost me Dan, Now you know why I pay you to to be my bro! I was never particularly good at math without taken my shoes off, but let me know you wanna take this thing off to fly ..... I got the landing lights on a 520... Edited March 4, 2022 by WHX?? 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,127 #54 Posted March 4, 2022 Poor guy should be sainted! Definitely rates a raise in pay. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutdoorEnvy 1,522 #55 Posted March 19, 2022 Well parts have come in and we are under way. Today I had a little time so got the valve lapping done and the cylinder honing as well. Also set the ring gaps. The close auto parts stores to me were all out of assembly lube. So waiting on that to arrive from the jungle site. Honestly I don't know how parts stores are going to stay in business when they can't keep in stock the simplest of stuff like assembly lube. They offer to order it of course but you can order it online and get it quicker and cheaper and not have to make the trip again...they're only niche is that they are there and you can go get it now...without that I don't know what they offer....anyways...rant over. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,762 #56 Posted March 19, 2022 This works for good assembly lube too... little messy but works. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,662 #57 Posted March 19, 2022 STP also works 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,020 #58 Posted March 19, 2022 Not to get off topic but the reason a lot of parts stores are out of the little things like assembly lube is the fact that consumers are always shopping for the lowest price. Hence stores have to stock multiple grades of such items as Filters,Belts, Brake Pads, Calipers Mufflers ect. Things the local repair shops are going to call for and need in a hurry to get the car out the door and on to the next. The vast majority of these parts stores are privately owned so the owner has to pay for inventory. Napa, auto Value ect don't just drop stuff of and say "here sell it" Store have to stock for example 4 or 5 versions of a brake caliper for the same car as well as 2 or 3 different rotors. The little stuff gets pushed aside. Your example of assembly lube is something that most people would get as they are making up their lists to rebuild an engine and they can wait a day or 2 to get it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutdoorEnvy 1,522 #59 Posted April 4, 2022 Little more progress. got the new rod and piston installed. Got side plate on as well as points and set gap, fuel pump, and valve cover. I'm debating about using the old head bolts or buying new. Any thoughts on it? I've always used the old ones in the past and haven't really ran into issues doing that. I torque to spec and follow tightening sequence. But now I read they stretch and using new ones is the optimal way to go. But would love to hear opinions here with experience. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,762 #60 Posted April 4, 2022 (edited) I have used ones over too in a pinch Envy with no issues but have no qualms about the peace of mind new ones bring. I would always use new ones if a hardware store wasn't twenty miles away and wasn't a poke & a hope they have them. Other wise looking good and remember the hole in the rod towards the cam! .... Edited April 4, 2022 by WHX?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutdoorEnvy 1,522 #61 Posted April 4, 2022 9 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Other wise looking good and remember the hole in the rod towards the cam! .... i did get that part right! Wondering if that’s what killed the previous rebuild. I’ll see what bolts cost. Is grade 8 the way to go? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,762 #62 Posted April 4, 2022 1 minute ago, OutdoorEnvy said: Is grade 8 the way to go? Yes 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,580 #63 Posted April 4, 2022 @OutdoorEnvy nice going on that , opportunity on that fuel pump set up to add a fuel check valve, evil energy , 5/16 valve , https://www.ebay.com/itm/125209909871?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255- mount it vertically , arrow up between fuel pump discharge and carb fuel inlet . build the valve and hose end s before installing , then its just sliding up those spring clamps in place , makes it simple . I used clear fuel line on mine , instant starts , no leaks no problems . have this set up on 3 kohler magnum engines , it works and its solidly reliable , just an idea, pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutdoorEnvy 1,522 #64 Posted April 7, 2022 Well I am pretty close now! Had to redo a couple wire connectors and decided to clean the switch terminals and wipe it down while tank was off. The fuel valve and grommet are toast so I'll need to replace that and fuel lines next. But it's coming together... 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,762 #65 Posted April 7, 2022 Do I need to start another ungly seat thread tho Envy? Getting poked in the rear by that one has gotta be gettin old! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutdoorEnvy 1,522 #66 Posted April 8, 2022 2 hours ago, WHX?? said: Do I need to start another ungly seat thread tho Envy? Getting poked in the rear by that one has gotta be gettin old! LOL! in my defense it’s never ran so I haven’t sat in it yet…perhaps a new seat will be in order if she proves to be a runner 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,580 #67 Posted April 8, 2022 @OutdoorEnvy like your behind the dash improvement pictures , that place is both a nightmare and an opportunity , use your battery ground cable bolt down point to , add another cable directly to corner of engine / frame , insuring related grounding . , to ignition and headlights . add electrical lug at frame bolt area , for lighter ignition / lighting wiring .https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Nsi-4T-Aluminum-Single-Lug-Lug-4-14-Awg-Al-Cu/5979278? . get it in a 3/8 base bolt size , so it bolts right to frame / engine corner . did you SUPER LUBE those cables for ease of movement ? check out the PTO lever start area , dry / rusty / sloppy ? snugged up mine with washers and lubricant , very solid and smooth . 2 bolt flange bearing on the steering column . only suggestions . dielectric grease every connection , keep going , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,580 #68 Posted April 8, 2022 @Snoopy11 having spent much time in that area , its like a gold mine / of issues , little in there that does not need improvement. very interesting how much better things work , once its sorted out . verified , all improvements , and regularly check for how the fix is standing up . that super lube oil bottle , https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-targid=, is the deal on , throttle and choke cables , and related lever points , that and very light spring pull down to enhance cable slide , makes them work like they should , assist springs , pull them back to start function ,experimented with light spring pull against increase , throttle and choke . both work without effort . make them work easy , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #69 Posted April 8, 2022 1 hour ago, peter lena said: make them work easy Yes sir, you are on the money. It is much worse on governed engines, but even on ungoverned engines, the little things make a BIG difference! Don 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutdoorEnvy 1,522 #70 Posted April 8, 2022 @peter lena I lubed them down to free them up but just used penetrating oil. It seemed to work and they all work freely now. They only odd thing I came across and had to adjust was the parking brake. It would not go back far enough for the little stop lever to move down and lock it in. I had to loosed the adjustment nuts to the point the locking nut can't fit on. It does travel far enough back though to set the parking brake. There's a couple threads out of the nut that fits, but not enough threads for the locking nut to grab. I'll keep an eye on it but any ideas as to what the proper fix would be? I did get everything with the engine assembled and did go ahead and get new head bolts. I tested for spark and we have it. Everything seems to work right now. Tomorrow I will get things needed to redo the fuel system and we will be able to see if she's a runner! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutdoorEnvy 1,522 #71 Posted April 26, 2022 Well an update on the engine. It is running but has a slight knock on the low end so this would be the crank journal is out of spec. I knew this was a risk when I chose not to measure and address it but agreed with some of the opinions here that the 10hp kohlers just aren't worth the machine shop bill to bring back into spec. I'm just going to run this though till it breaks the rod again. We'll just see how many hours it'll last. This won't be a mowing rig so maybe the less load on the crank will let it last a while. It runs good outside of the slight knock though. I'll put a predator engine on or maybe keep an eye out for a 12-16hp engine in the meantime. But the tractor does run and is usable. It is leaking trans fluid from one of the axle seals so coming up with hub puller will be the next project. I'll get some pics up after I address the axle leak, get some tubes for the rear tires and I do need a hood latch assembly as well. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70sC120automadic 0 #72 Posted April 28, 2022 Just opened my k301 to find the exact same thing chip in the cilinder and a chewed up frank and a mess in the oil pan .I live in Washington and it seems like these things are mostly on the east coast .baught a c120 auto with bat hydro pump .baught pump and friend was running it before pump swap and the freshly rebuilt motor broke the rid I suspect over reving of the motor 8n an atemp to execute the hydrostatic drive so not the drive is all fixed and no motor no more cash and no local supply of Kohler k series 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,062 #73 Posted April 28, 2022 1 hour ago, 70sC120automadic said: the freshly rebuilt motor broke the rid I suspect over reving of the motor Sorry we have to meet you under such circumstances. Please do an introduction and let us know your needs. By doing your own post it will get more attention. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/47-introductions/?do=add When a freshly builty Kohler tosses a rod it is quite often a case of the connecting rod being installed with the oil hole not facing the cam shaft. You could post a wanted ad in our classified section, it is free. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/wanted/?do=form&d=2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
