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aemsee

New to me 310-8

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peter lena

@aemsee , probably best to look for a single stage blower , that 10 hp  is just a little light for blower drive power, it will work , but you will have to run it pretty hard if you are regularly dealing with high / heavy snow .  having a single stage my self , 12 hp  and up is more like it . on the other hand you can easily use a 42 " plow blade and frame  for snow work . the unit you picked up looks  like its in pretty good shape , how many hours , what does it need ?  glad to have you on board , other members will chime in with possible answers  and ideas for your plan , good luck , pete 

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aemsee
4 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@aemsee , probably best to look for a single stage blower , that 10 hp  is just a little light for blower drive power, it will work , but you will have to run it pretty hard if you are regularly dealing with high / heavy snow .  having a single stage my self , 12 hp  and up is more like it . on the other hand you can easily use a 42 " plow blade and frame  for snow work . the unit you picked up looks  like its in pretty good shape , how many hours , what does it need ?  glad to have you on board , other members will chime in with possible answers  and ideas for your plan , good luck , pete 

Thanks for the advice. Found a single stage for sale pretty close by, but not sure if it is the right unit for my tractor? Seller says they do not know what it was off.I looked for an hour meter and did not see one. Starts well with very minimal smoke, but purrs like a kitten. Haven't started shaking it down yet so not sure what sort of "repairs" were made by previous owners, lol. These are pics of blower I am going to look at. If the snow is heavy or drifted bad, the W150 in the back ground is Bessie and she lives to plow snow

b1.jpg

b2.jpg

b3.jpg

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Ed Kennell

:text-welcomeconfetti: to the :rs:

 

That's a good lookin 310 and tiller and the 10 HP should do well with the tiller as the full 10 HP goes to the tiller.  The tiller actually moves the tractor forward.

Like Pete stated, 10 HP will crank the SS bower in most conditions.     The blower in the pic will fit your 310 and attach to the front attach-a-matic.   The blower looks to be in good condition for being stored outside.     Must say, I have never seen one with that chute instruction plate on the crank.

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peter lena

 

agree with  ED KENNELL  above on the blower and the attach a matic  , hook up , a thorough inspection and detail inspection will bring it back to life and probably get it going. when i did mine over it was rust and neglect , but it came back , and runs very well, lubrication and movement settings , were key, pete 

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aemsee

Seller had two snow blowers. Close to each other but slightly different. Mounting mechanism looks identical tho. Will post good pictures when I get them home. Oh. Was $100 for the pair 😁

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kpinnc

Congrats! My first Wheel Horse was a 1987 310-8, and I still have it 25 years later! I use it regularly, and it the most dependable tractor that I have. We don't typically get enough snow here for a snowblower, but it has cut grass with a 36, 37, 42, and even grunted for two hours a couple times with a 48 inch deck. It has tilled heavy red clay with no problems, and dozered a many driveway. It's a good machine, and should last a long time!

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peter lena

@aemsee that blower deal is like buy one and get one free ! if you get them, first thing i would do , is to spray them down with your favorite aerosol  lubricant , why ? that oil will feed the paint and stop the grungy rust , that auger looks surprisingly good. With no impact bends , any bend can be taken out with a pair of large adjustable wrenches , working it opposed directions on the same bend area, just the very edge of the bend. Another thing to check is the auger gear chain drive , front of blower , right side. adjustment for chain, behind angle wing bottom edge area. all related movement points should move with ease and be  lubricated , that will give you something to work on .the auger should easily spin up with a pull on the drive belt. just giving some maintenance detail , so you realize ,this requires work to get this done. I never let my drive chain run without , chain and cable , lubricant . let me know , pete

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aemsee

ok....where should the tractor data plate be located? I can find the engine model and serial numbers....but cannot find the tractor plate so i can get the correct service info. Please help!!

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Ed Kennell

look under the seat on the left side.

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gwest_ca

Tractor could be 1 of 3

1987 model 21-10K804

1988 model 21-10K805

1989 model 21-10K806

 

The decal on the snowthrower chute crank was used 1975-1979. Not shown in the parts illustrations but 104461 is in the parts lists.

 

Garry

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aemsee
21 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

look under the seat on the left side.

bummer. At some point in time this poor gal was painted white...then brushed with red. Guessing info tag is long gone

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gwest_ca

Post all the numbers off the engine decal including the serial number. Sometimes the tractor ID can be determined from them.

 

Garry

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aemsee

 

0E15A16D-8952-4D81-A6D9-00EB98690ED2.jpeg

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gwest_ca

This engine was made by Kohler in 1989 and is on a tractor with a maroon hood decal so have to assume it is a 1989 model because 1990 decals are black. 1990 tractor production likely started prior to October 1989.

Wheel Horse info we have does not list the 461533 spec number as one they used so most likely an oversight.

But when you go to Kohler they show this spec number was produced for Toro/Wheel Horse.

 

Best guess is your tractor is a 1989 model 21-10K806

 

Two pages on the 21-10K806

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=21-10K806&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

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aemsee

This is the other blower from the BOGO deal. This is the one I believe is for my tractor? Other than a previous owner trying to snowblow bricks and denting up the auger everything seems to spin freely. The previously pictured blower needs a lot of lubrication as not much turns on it. But have no doubt I can free it up and find a new owner for it

29149651-521F-4BA1-846E-7A01368A3B81.jpeg

DD7B2333-2B4C-4CBC-A1D8-525B70E2749A.jpeg

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Ed Kennell

Both blowers will fit on your tractor using the front attach-a-matic.    Did you get the flags and push/lift rods for both blowers?

Edited by Ed Kennell
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peter lena

@aemsee those single stage blowers are pretty stout , on your brick auger issue , get 2 , 12 "  adjustable wrenches to work on a bend area .  put one wrench on top of each other just on the edge of the bend , now move wrenches in opposet  directions , that will typically take the bend out . do not use a hammer on that , the wrenches get it done. found the best lubrication for that is , lubriplate  chain and open gear spray , green can is the lighter penetrant , black can is the extra heavy open gear spray. i never let the auger gear  chain go dry , and detail all my lubrication . spins up easily . notice the flat idler pulley on the mount frame? grease lubricate the rod to hole on frame , helps it spin up faster , lubrication is key . any other issues , just ask , keep it oily pete

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aemsee
6 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Both blowers will fit on your tractor using the front attach-a-matic.    Did you get the flags and push/lift rods for both blowers?

push/lift rod? Is that what attaches to the bent pin in the center rear of the blower unit?

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aemsee
4 hours ago, peter lena said:

@aemsee those single stage blowers are pretty stout , on your brick auger issue , get 2 , 12 "  adjustable wrenches to work on a bend area .  put one wrench on top of each other just on the edge of the bend , now move wrenches in opposet  directions , that will typically take the bend out . do not use a hammer on that , the wrenches get it done. found the best lubrication for that is , lubriplate  chain and open gear spray , green can is the lighter penetrant , black can is the extra heavy open gear spray. i never let the auger gear  chain go dry , and detail all my lubrication . spins up easily . notice the flat idler pulley on the mount frame? grease lubricate the rod to hole on frame , helps it spin up faster , lubrication is key . any other issues , just ask , keep it oily pete

I am hoping to pull the auger assy out to straighten it, as well as grind off the rust and paint it to help the snow not stick to it

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aemsee
6 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Both blowers will fit on your tractor using the front attach-a-matic.    Did you get the flags and push/lift rods for both blowers?

what do you mean by flags? TY !

 

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Ed Kennell

The "flag is the weldment that attaches the blower lift rod to the tractor rock shaft.   I don't have a pic handy, but it is about a 10" long piece of 5/8 or 3/4" rod that slides into the push/lift pipe.

The rod has a flag shaped bar welded to it with a pin that connects to the vertical lever on the rock shaft.

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Ed Kennell
1 hour ago, aemsee said:

push/lift rod? Is that what attaches to the bent pin in the center rear of the blower unit?

Yes sir.

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aemsee
6 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Yes sir.

OK. The older blower came with the push/lift rod. And I can safely say I have no flags, lol. Time to scrounge or make one I guess. Thank you all so much for the help. This place is great

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peter lena
 

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