stevasaurus 22,764 #26 Posted March 22, 2022 Rich, I would buy a gallon of diesel and use a plastic wash tub, soak the part and use a wire brush or wire wheel to clean off the gunk. After that, it you have a rust issue, I would recommend electrolysis or blasting with plastic beads. Electrolysis is much cheaper and works great. You are correct that somebody has been in your transmission before. Look at your differential and your mushroom gear. Your differential has the bolt on bull gear and the mushroom gear to fit the bull gear. Like in this picture. These were not factory issue in the #5003 transmission. If you take apart your differential, notice the direction of the pinion gear under the nut on the through bolt. If you put it back together with the pinions turned the opposite direction, you will not be able to start that nut. See picture. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichJ 29 #27 Posted March 22, 2022 Steve, I'm on it. Got the diesel fuel today. Will start the soak tomorrow. Somewhere in my web surfing, I've come across the detachable bull gear before. It's funny though, because I just watched your video on the bull gear bolts interfering with the pinion gears last night. Below are some pictures of the parts I accumulated over the winter. Not shown are a really nice pair of rear hubs that will replace the striped out old ones. I had a small patch welded in a bad spot on one front rim. Haven't had a chance to grind the welds yet. The other three rims are not perfect, but OK. One question, though. One press-fit bushing on a front rim was removable by hand, so the fit is a little loose. Is there a slightly over-sized bushing or other type of over-sized bearing available? 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,759 #28 Posted March 24, 2022 On 3/22/2022 at 6:43 PM, RichJ said: . One question, though. One press-fit bushing on a front rim was removable by hand, so the fit is a little loose. Is there a slightly over-sized bushing or other type of over-sized bearing available? you can replace the greased bushing with sealed bearings. They will keep your front wheels clean and hold up well for general tractor use. There's a thread on here somewhere discussing front wheel bearings but I cound not find it at the moment. it does give some sources for the new bushings if you want to go that way. https://smile.amazon.com/XiKe-Bearings-Applicable-Wheelbarrows-Replacement/dp/B078JY8452/ref=sr_1_3?crid=34YY9LY56MOKB&keywords=wheel+horse+wheel+bearings&qid=1638069290&sprefix=wheel+horse+whe%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,828 #29 Posted March 24, 2022 (edited) On 3/22/2022 at 6:43 PM, RichJ said: s there a slightly over-sized bushing Not that I am aware of. Most guys go with what Ollie suggested but even then they can be a bit sloppy in the rim as well. I know I do lets wear out the bearing as designed instead of the spindle. I have used a Loctite product to help hold them in. Once you have the rim on the tractor & shimmed they really can't go anywhere as long as they don't spin in the rim. As light as these front ends are that's rarely a problem. If a guy wants to stay original bushings I always though about knurling them to see if they would fit better. If you ever need bushings let me know I have a box of them! Did you make those steering gear parts? Edited March 24, 2022 by WHX?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,011 #30 Posted March 24, 2022 On 3/22/2022 at 7:43 PM, RichJ said: Is there a slightly over-sized bushing or other type of over-sized bearing available? I'd also go with wheel bearings instead of bushings as others have suggested. For a loose fit in the rim I used the corner of a plastic bag strategically cutting it, tap the bearing in with the plastic on the bearing rim as a "spacer" and then used a razor knife to trim off the excess. No one would ever notice until the bearing is pulled again. The bearing will stay in tight with that plastic spacer. Just another backyard hammer mechanic solution. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichJ 29 #31 Posted March 25, 2022 10 hours ago, WHX?? said: Did you make those steering gear parts? No, I found them online from a guy in Ohio who has many videos about wheelhorse an other tractors. Packrat Fabrications is his YouTube channel. My rear axles, hubs, and front axles where warn to the point of almost being unusable, or at least diffucult to repair without the proper machine tools or welding experience. So I decided to splurge and buy them. They weren't cheap, but if I cobble this thing back together right, it will probably out live me. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,828 #32 Posted March 25, 2022 We need to bring this Packrat guy into the fold if not already. Those parts are outstanding. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,968 #33 Posted March 26, 2022 On 3/21/2022 at 10:44 PM, oliver2-44 said: Your front rims were only used from 1958 to 1961. They are getting harder $ to find. Most were shipped from the factory with calcium chloride for ballast which is corrosive. I’ve used fiberglass to repair some really bad ones. LB Weld or just Bondo works on the heavily pitted ones. Post some pictures when you get to that part. Also If you haven’t already bought new axles you can flip then and drill new roll paint n holes. When you get your gears all cleaned up post closeup pictures of each one. These guys can tell you what will work. For a show cruiser you can put up with a little pitting. PC-7 is also a very good product to use on old RJ rusty wheels. Available at auto parts stores and Wal-Mart. Thanks to Craig Herne (AMC Rules) for the tutorial on this stuff. I used on a set of old wheels. You can use metal tape, steel wool, or other materials to fill big or small rust holes and then fill remainder with PC-7 mix. It can be worked for 25 to 30 minutes and can be smoothed with a wet finger etc ( I wore vinyl gloves). Dry for a day then sand to smooth further. I had a big rust hole o. My wheel valve hole. I used grey primer and then Rustoleum Antique White Gloss for final painting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,968 #34 Posted March 26, 2022 Some other things to consider on RJ/Suburban front wheels. Rib tires can be used ( they were not on originals but look good and work well for steering). The first photo is of tri-ribs that are 3.5 x 8 and 4.0 x 8 on right. Both can be used on RJ fronts . I think the smaller looks better. The second shot is of some Goodyear 1960 tires I just bought that were new old stock I am going to put on one of my RJs. These were used on RJs and Suburbans. The fourth photo is of some Deestone tires on wheels for some later Wheel Horse tractor models but often used on RJs and Suburbans. The fifth, sixth and seventh photos are of a very early wheel that was used on belt drive Ride-a-Way juniors. It is a Shenuit tire wheel (confirmed by Clay Brooks - one of the big Wheel Horse collectors and an expert, professional tire guy). Shenuit tires no longer made and although hub is same width as the RJ/Suburban wheel spindles-it is one inch narrower however to accommodate the old Shenuit tires. Just some more food for thought on your RJ redo. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites