ri702bill 8,564 #1 Posted August 10, 2021 While working on my C81 I noticed a fair amount of play between one spindle and the axle bore. I disassembled it and there was wear evident on both parts. I had another spindle from a parts tractor that was in better shape, so I switched it. Have any members bored out the cast iron axle for bronze bushings, similar to kingpin bushings on old straight axle trucks? If so, is the bottom one a flanged bushing and the upper a sleeve? I figured I would sleeve the axle from the parts tractor and then switch it. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edgro 677 #2 Posted August 10, 2021 I've done that once, used straight bushings on both ends., As you day similar to a truck kingpin bushing. Reamed axle to fit bushing, then ream bushing to fit spindle. Lots of work using a hand held adjustable reamer 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,878 #3 Posted August 10, 2021 @ri702bill. lucas extra heavy duty polyurea ,hi temp , anti sling chassis grease , walmart , $ 5 , make your work last , if you want too , no bearing failures or noise , since using this , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,918 #4 Posted August 10, 2021 I do this often when restoring a tractor. I bore a 7/8" hole 1" deep in each end of the axle hole. Then install a 7/8" x 3/4" bunting bearing/bushing that is 1" long into each end. This leaves room for the grease zerk to do it's job and the bushings are easily changeable if need be. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,564 #5 Posted August 10, 2021 Thanks all. I did also notice that while pumping grease into the spindle zerks, the excess only came out the top - upon disassembly, the lower was dry. Bushings or not, I will add a second fitting below the original on each side to lube the lower contact area. I was planning to flycut the lower boss area to true it up and perhaps remove 1/8" so I could add a bronze thrust washer between the axle boss ans the spindle cup. Bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,388 #6 Posted August 10, 2021 2 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Thanks all. I did also notice that while pumping grease into the spindle zerks, the excess only came out the top - upon disassembly, the lower was dry. Bushings or not, I will add a second fitting below the original on each side to lube the lower contact area. I was planning to flycut the lower boss area to true it up and perhaps remove 1/8" so I could add a bronze thrust washer between the axle boss ans the spindle cup. Bill Jack up the front while greasing so the grease can flow to where it is needed. Needle type thrust bearings might be what you want instead of the bronze. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,174 #7 Posted August 10, 2021 I've done a couple, did it on the mill with a boring bar. Heh, the fun part was figuring a 'jig' to hold it at the necessary angle. 33 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Needle type thrust bearings might be what you want instead of the bronze. Yes on the needle type, us big D owners really like to add these to that big boy. Mcmaster Carr 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,564 #8 Posted August 14, 2021 All: Here are a few pictures of the setup I used. I drilled and reamed the pivot hole first, installed the bushings and used it with a piece of cold rolled as part of the setup so the spindle bores would be perpendicular to it. The last picture is after I flycut 1/8" off the bottom boss. I will be using a 1/8" thick bronze washer - needle bearings require the hardened washers on either side - not sure grease would get in there by the washer. Pacer - you were right about the setup being a challenge as this is a cambered axle - fixing my 702 non cambered axle should be easier. Bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,564 #9 Posted August 14, 2021 And.... per Pete's sugestion, I will be using the Lucas green grease upon assembly. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,878 #10 Posted August 14, 2021 @ri702bill , good choice on that bill, have to warn you though , once you start using it , you get caught up in its total ease of function, areas that you use it in, are solid and smooth , and stand up , levers work without effort , bearings do not scream in agony, pto needle bearing spins with total ease, hooked , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,564 #11 Posted August 14, 2021 Pete: I can add disasembling, cleaning, and relubricating the needle bearing on the C81 PTO to my to do list ...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,174 #12 Posted August 14, 2021 (edited) Been too long ago to remember my set up.... One look at yours and its apparent that took some time! I recall many yrs ago before I got into machining and taking a part to a shop and hearing the quote.... WOW I'd think! But it didnt take long once getting a lathe & mill to understand that price they would give -- doing the cut take maybe 5-10 mins, but to set it up may take an hour! I have the needle bearings on my D's axles and they take grease fine, and I think?? that at one post mentioned WH adapted this to the later D's (somebody correct me if wrong on that) By the way what is your mill, looks familiar but cant quite place it -- I have one of the Bridgeport clones. Edited August 14, 2021 by pacer add question Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,564 #13 Posted August 15, 2021 The Mill / Drill as they call it is a 2016 Rong Fu 2 HP unit I bought new, still in the crate in 2019. Caught a good deal. It came with the stand base and a 3 axis programable digital readout. I was looking for a round ram Bridgeport model M knee machine - the only model that would fit in my basement. The Rong Fu has no movable knee, but the head has about 10 inches of travel on the rigid column. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites