rjg854 11,691 #26 Posted August 9, 2021 The change on my Raider 12 definitely made me a believer. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,852 #27 Posted August 9, 2021 I found a belt guard in my basement you can have but I can't throw it that far! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #28 Posted August 9, 2021 6 minutes ago, squonk said: I found a belt guard in my basement you can have but I can't throw it that far! Thanks, I’ll PM you about shipping and stuff later. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,583 #29 Posted August 9, 2021 @stevasaurus Thanks for posting those pics. I couldn't do any better than that with my own. Looks like the folks here have got you in great shape. You'll be fine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #30 Posted August 9, 2021 Just now, ebinmaine said: @stevasaurus Thanks for posting those pics. I couldn't do any better than that with my own. Looks like the folks here have got you in great shape. You'll be fine. That’s why I have an account! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,962 #31 Posted August 9, 2021 Eric, those are pics that I had, and not very good. Mine are from an 857. They just give and idea of the shape. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,583 #32 Posted August 9, 2021 11 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: Eric, those are pics that I had, and not very good. Mine are from an 857. They just give and idea of the shape. No worries Steve mine would be from an 856 so it would be identical. Best bet would be to follow the generalized angles that are in your pictures and take correct measurements off of the actual tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #33 Posted August 10, 2021 (edited) 20 hours ago, wallfish said: The only thing different for a belt guard on a similar model tractor with a Kohler is the hole location for where it mounts to the engine. Not a big deal to make them fit. To make it run without a belt guard so the gears don't grind, you can support the belt around the engine pulley with little metal "fingers" made from round bar. Would this setup work? It came like that. It runs, I put a little fresh gas and some SeaFoam in took the spark plug and cleaned it, sprayed some startling fluid in and BAM it started right up. What oil does the tranny take? It seems a little low I think, it is very loud when you push it. Edited August 10, 2021 by WheelHorse520H Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,583 #34 Posted August 10, 2021 9 minutes ago, WheelHorse520H said: Would this setup work? Seems to me if you moved the right hand support so that it's on the bottom it would be helpful. The entire bottom of the belt is going to need to be supported though. Your transmission takes the least expensive 80 or 90 weight oil that you can get. Drain plug is at the back on the bottom. Lift the front of the tractor as high as you can safely do so because there's a hump in the middle. It would be a very good idea to flush the transmission with diesel or kerosene. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #35 Posted August 10, 2021 51 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Your transmission takes the least expensive 80 or 90 weight oil that you can get. Drain plug is at the back on the bottom. How many quarts? Thanks it seemed to bind up when I tried to drive it. First thought was low transmission fluid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,583 #36 Posted August 10, 2021 2 minutes ago, WheelHorse520H said: quarts The actual standard is that 3 and 4 speeds take 1.5 quarts and 6 and 8 speeds take 2 quarts. I usually just put two quarts in no matter what it is... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #37 Posted August 10, 2021 21 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: The actual standard is that 3 and 4 speeds take 1.5 quarts and 6 and 8 speeds take 2 quarts. I usually just put two quarts in no matter what it is... Okay so 2 quarts of SAE80 or 90. Thanks. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #38 Posted August 10, 2021 Will this work? My assistants that went and got it for me said this was all O’Reilly had for 80 or 90. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,583 #39 Posted August 10, 2021 23 minutes ago, WheelHorse520H said: Will this work? That'll do just fine. Just for future reference there are transmissions in other machines not related to Wheelhorse where the gl4 or gl5 designation must be followed. But these machines are perfectly happy with either. Here's an excerpt from the interwebs: The main difference between GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils is the amount of EP additives. Sulphur/Phosphorus containing products are used as EP-additive. This additive has the purpose to prevent the occurrence of micro-welds on the gear flanks at the local high temperatures which prevail in EP circumstances (temperatures well in excess of 800℃!) GL-5 has roughly twice the amount of EP additives compared to GL-4, which is why it is often used in high-pressure circumstances such as in a front axle and rear axle differential. Sulphur/Phosphorus additives however have an unfavourable property: they can react aggressively towards bronze and copper. This can be disastrous for the synchromesh rings of a gearbox. Therefore it is not recommended to use GL-5 in a gearbox unless the manufacturer allows this. To the best of my knowledge there are no bronze or copper products in a Wheelhorse transmission. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #40 Posted August 11, 2021 (edited) I had some of the sludge draining from the transmission through the fill port. I got as much out as I could because the drain plug stripped. I put in a mix of the gear oil and Marvel Mystery Oil to flush it out and loosen the drain plug threads, I am going to try to drive it again tomorrow to mix it all and heat it up to get the threads loose. Hopefully I can drain it and put more gear oil in. Thanks for the help with all this miscellaneous info. P.S. I am supposed to use the fill port on the left side of the tranny next to the trailer hitch to fill it right? Edited August 11, 2021 by WheelHorse520H 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,583 #41 Posted August 11, 2021 13 minutes ago, WheelHorse520H said: P.S. I am supposed to use the fill port on the left side of the tranny next to the trailer hitch to fill it right? You can.... But it's much easier to pop the shifter out and fill through that larger hole. If you use the side fill you'll want to tilt that side of the Tractor up some. And you won't get all of the 2 qts in. No worries. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #42 Posted August 11, 2021 1 minute ago, ebinmaine said: You can.... But it's much easier to pop the shifter out and fill through that larger hole. If you use the side fill you'll want to tilt that side of the Tractor up some. And you won't get all of the 2 qts in. No worries. Does the shifter just pull out? I did jack up the rear end when I filled it, and still didn’t get all 2 quarts in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,583 #43 Posted August 11, 2021 The shifter has a "half dog point" set screw with a jamb nut. Should be just a standard 1/4"-20. Likely Allen head. They can be a bit challenging to line up when reinstalling. 9 minutes ago, WheelHorse520H said: I did jack up the rear end when I filled it, and still didn’t get all 2 quarts in. As long as you get 1.5 qts or more in a 3 or 4 speed you're good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #44 Posted August 11, 2021 How do I adjust the parking brake? Right now the little lever doesn’t hold the pedal down. I saw nothing in the manual that @stevasaurus posted about this adjustment. Thanks for all the help with these little kinks. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,583 #45 Posted August 11, 2021 19 minutes ago, WheelHorse520H said: How do I adjust the parking brake? Right now the little lever doesn’t hold the pedal down. I saw nothing in the manual that @stevasaurus posted about this adjustment. Thanks for all the help with these little kinks. The way I do it on Trina's mid-60s tractors which should be the same as yours is to back off of the adjustment on the bottom of the brake band enough that you can engage the lever to hold the park brake in place. Then, tighten up on the nut that holds the brake band until it's kind of snug. Sometimes it takes me two or three attempts to get it right where I want it. If you want pictures I can show you some later today. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,171 #46 Posted August 11, 2021 Applies to cast iron gear transmissions Back the brake off until you get the lever to engage. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #47 Posted August 11, 2021 Due to an interesting transmission issue(s) I had to start a dedicated thread in the transmissions and transaxles section. I will continue to post here with my oddball questions, thanks for the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #48 Posted August 11, 2021 Sorry, another question. Would This pulley work for this machine, is it rated for the 6.5 hp? I could not find a rating anywhere. The one that’s on there is small so the belt slips and is damaged. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,583 #49 Posted August 11, 2021 Looks like that one should be fine. I've used those TB Woods pulleys. I've also used Grainger. I like them both. However, chances are very high you'd be able to find that for a lot less money somewhere else. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,583 #50 Posted August 11, 2021 The one in the picture above should immediately be thrown in the recycling bin so nobody ever gets a chance to use it again 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
