to Bondo or not to Bondo

[jsp_333 273]

I'm doing a full restore on an rj.  Several pieces have some pretty significant pitting.

When all the paint is stripped off and down to bare metal it looks pretty cool.

Tool box in pic has some flash oxidation on it. 

I know I can't keep it as bare metal

Has anyone just gone from bare pitted metal to primer to paint and left the pitting.

And were you pleased with the result?  Or did you regret not filling the pits with bondo and getting a nice smooth surface.

Also this is my first restore. Am I correct in thinking fill in all the pitting with Bondo or is there another way?

I know this is subjective and I can get whatever "look" I want but I'm wondering about members' experience with this sort of thing.

 

 

[AMC RULES 37,141]

I personally love that bare metal look with the pitting.

How will you be storing it after you're done?

[AMC RULES 37,141]

Had parts of this tractor in bare metal for years.

 

 

[AMC RULES 37,141]

How I kept it sealed.

[ebinmaine 68,742]

50 minutes ago, jsp_333 said:

I know this is subjective and I can get whatever "look" I want but I'm wondering about members' experience with this sort of thing.

 

As you've eluded to already it really is up to you as the owner and/or restorer. 

 

The tractors Trina and I have restored have all been built specifically to work so we've not been adamant about a specific shine or smooth paint. 

We also use satin sheen because it's more forgiving to the eye when looking at a rough surface. 

 

I don't know the capacity of different types of body filler to fill different depths/sizes of pits. I know they do have variables. 

 

Filler Primer would work well for smaller/shallower pits. 

 

Layering black primer with gray or white allows a good visual of depth of holes or dents. 

 

 

[Crazyredhorse 296]

could just cut out a piece of thin sheet metal n cover it up.or just brush on some thick coats of primer and keep sanding between coats till it smoothes.

[Pullstart 63,173]

44 minutes ago, Crazyredhorse said:

thin sheet metal n cover it up

In my experience, that’s asking for more rust and corrosion.  
 

If you choose to paint it for a resto, you’ll be thankful you smoothed it however you go about.  Here’s a vote for smoothing it before paint!  

[dalez 138]

If that's the inside of a toolbox I would brush on truck bed coating.

[jsp_333 273]

I didn't think keeping it bare metal was an option.

But seat, fenders, tool box and rims bare metal would definitely be a look.

My seat looks exactly like the one in the video. 

 

The tractor will be stored indoors and not used in the summers.

It will be used as a snowplow when we get too little snow for the snow thrower and will be fun to bring out with the blade.

And for the annual Christmas  tractor parade on my street.

 

Truck bed coating is great idea.

I think I'll do up the tractor in bright high gloss red put it all back together and see how she looks with the bare metal parts.

 

And it's as simple as pull a part out of the electrolysis tank, wire brush as required, clean it with mineral spirits, dry it and wax it with paste wax?

Thanks all

[AMC RULES 37,141]

Mine was only a fair weather tractor so it never saw rain or snow while in my possession.

But, I have faith in the product, give it a try, I would just reapply it more frequently. 

 

[ebinmaine 68,742]

19 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

have faith in the product

I'll second that. 

Mother's old school original paste is another excellent one. 

[AMC RULES 37,141]

Another thought...

if you plan to use during inclement weather, for maximum protection just give it a liberal application before hand and don't buff it off. 

[jsp_333 273]

Thanks All.  I'm going to go this route.

If I don't care for it I can always move forward with filling in all the pitting and painting next year.

 

But my original question remains  has anyone taken a heavily pitted part and just primed and painted?

Or would that not even be an option because you'd be mixing the old weathered look with a fresh from the factory look.

I think I'm answering my own question but I'd love to hear from anyone that's tried it.

[ebinmaine 68,742]

2 minutes ago, jsp_333 said:

But my original question remains  has anyone taken a heavily pitted part and just primed and painted?

 

ALL of our tractors have been done exactly that way.  

[jsp_333 273]

Ok, thanks, ebinmaine.  My first full resto so that's my excuse for asking.

[ebinmaine 68,742]

4 minutes ago, jsp_333 said:

Ok, thanks, ebinmaine.  My first full resto so that's my excuse for asking.

 

I do occasionally wish I'd done more to the hood in particular. 

But.... It's a work tractor. It was VERY rough when we got it. 

The pits and dents are the history and character of this tractor. 

I'm only going to put more scratches and dents in it so we left it as it was. 

 

It's been touched up a few times for shows and gatherings like at @JCM Jim's place. 

 

 

[jsp_333 273]

Yeah I'm going to do exactly the same thing.

Show it occasionally but first and foremost it has to work

[oliver2-44 9,907]

You could also clear coat it and not have to worry about the weather. 
 

One thought I’ve had with the right pitted tractor is to do a “Bleeding Horse”.

After cleaning parts to bare metal, wipe red paint into the pitted area’s. After thats dry lightly sand it so the paint just remain in the pits. Then clear coat it.  You also could do the chassis in full red and “bleed”  just the sheet metal. 
As mentioned, coating the inside of the tool box with bed liner also looks good. 
 

 

[WHX?? 49,431]

Musta missed this thread in the day but I love the look of not filling them in on any type of restoration. Adds great character and reminds one of what it looked like before a full paint resto and that it suffered many days outside under no cover. A block of snow & ice.

I've seen @Achto filiing them in and I cringe but he drills holes in 50 year old sheet metal too. 

Last 701 full paint resto I even went so far & left a few small pieces bare for effect. 

Note the ampmeter bezel, tunnel floor and shifter.

 

Edited Friday at 09:05 PM by WHX??

[ebinmaine 68,742]

5 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

I love the look of not filling them in on any type of restoration. Adds great character and reminds one of what it looked like before a full paint resto and that it suffered many days outside under no cover

 

Generally speaking in a fan of that too.  

Adds a vintage look.  You know it has a story...

 

That's how I went with my first restoration on Cinnamon Horse. 

But on my 1975 C160 Automatic I decided to go a hair nicer. 

Frame transmission etc is all still rough.  

The hood and rear fender/ seat pan have some repair.  Not totally. Some.  

Definitely still a bit of character on the sheet metal.  

[ranger 1,768]

How about thick marine epoxy primer/paint?

[Horse Newbie 7,159]

I favor leaving the pits and small dents…

it says “I’m a tractor with character and class”.

Like wearing a suit coat over bib overalls…

I sand, prime, paint…

Edited Friday at 10:42 PM by Horse Newbie

[kpinnc 12,743]

I typically would only fill small pits on a hood or fenders, and what method would depend on the severity. 

 

While I am not a fan of bondo, I have used a glazing compound on smaller rust pits. I also use it only over a rust inhibiting primer coat. I think any filler on bare metal is a bad idea here in the humid south. 

 

Back when I repainted my FILs Charger, the hood had some stress dimples at the mating surface between the grill and hood. The deepest spots were less than 1/16 of an inch. Also the hood had some very minor pitting. I stripped to bare metal, red oxide primed it, and glazed the surface. Block sanded smooth and primed again. It looked very nice when painted and has held up very well now for over two years. 

 

But I agree- on the frame, cast parts, and around the shifter, I don't mind some minor pitting. 

Edited Saturday at 05:49 AM by kpinnc

[Easton Rich 403]

Sadly there was no glazing around in any store I looked at so I used bondo. 

[Easton Rich 403]

If you want to fill it in a little put two coats of self etching down, sand, then paint