On going problem

[Gregor 4,846]

I have a persistent problem with my C-141. I have a Jim Kemp stack on it. The larger one I believe. Try as I might, I cannot keep the exhaust connections tight. The muffler keeps wanting to fall over. I have tried tightening everything with an 18" pipe wrench, while it is all hot. I have lock rings at every joint, hammered home with a punch. Nothing seems to help. It will stay for a while, but eventually will start to fall again. When putting together an exhaust system, is it better to use galvanized pipe, or black pipe? Or does it make any difference?   Thanks  Greg

[WHX?? 48,828]

That's odd i have three of Jim's and they all stay tight. I use black iron mostly 'cause that's what we use for gas piping at work so available. Thinking when the threads rust a bit holds them tight??  The only lock ring I use is one at the base of the stack and sometimes one at the block. If your a lock ring fan some are made of pot metal and will melt. 

 

Even when I ran this unwieldy beast never had a problem.... since replaced with a JK....  

 

Edited July 30, 2021 by WHX??

[squonk 41,151]

Where does it loosen? If it's at the engine itself the block hole is probably eroded some and the threads aren't as deep as they used to be. I have the same issue on my 953

[Gregor 4,846]

15 minutes ago, squonk said:

Where does it loosen?

Mostly at the joint between the nipple in the motor, and the coupling screwed to it. The nipple in the motor has never been out since I have owned it. I am considering drilling and tapping a hole through the two, insert a stainless steel screw, in an effort to hold it in place.

[squonk 41,151]

That nipple may be eroded from the inside out and possibly "crushing" when your coupler is tightened down. Then as it heats and cools it loosens up. If you were to replace that nipple your issue may go away. I use schedule 80 black iron when it's available.

[peter lena 8,634]

@Gregor  removing the original nipple from the engine is probably your best bet , using a 18" pipe wrench on that nipple , and a 3 lb hammer , just after the pipe wrench adjustment area , that's the most solid impact area , with no " bouncing to impact "  effect. having worked with a pipefitter for years , taught me the secrets to pipe removal. a bounce free hammer blow on the engine mounted exhaust nipple , should move it , then use a pipe tap on the engine bore hole , along with a new steel nipple . detail the pipe wrench solid bite on the nipple , 45deg angle on wrench , 3lb hammer blow on end of adjustment area , " NO HAMMER BOUNCE , SOLID IMPACT WILL MOVE IT " , just my own experience on my own engines , pete

    

[WHX?? 48,828]

22 minutes ago, Gregor said:

insert a stainless steel screw,

I like that idea. Malleable iron drills & taps pretty easy. Just remember it might have to come apart some day.

Be real carefull if you are going to try and remove the engine nipple. You oval it out, which can easily happen,  yer done. 

[squonk 41,151]

I think his nipple is already ovaled! Slice the nipple from the inside with a sawzall. Simple and quick. Collapse the nipple and it comes right out. 

Edited July 30, 2021 by squonk

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

15 minutes ago, squonk said:

I think his nipple is already ovaled! Slice the nipple from the inside with a sawzall. Simple and quick. Collapse the nipple and it comes right out. 

 

OUCH!

[pacer 3,173]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Slice the nipple from the inside with a sawzall. Simple and quick. Collapse the nipple and it comes right out. 

 

This is the ABSOLUTLY THE best/quickest/easiest etc etc

 

I take one of the angle grinder with a cut off wheel and slice the nipple leaving about 1/4" inch and using a jig/sabre/sawzall saw carefully slice the nipple just touching the threads (I do this in 2 places 180°) With a punch hit the 1/4" 'stick out' and itll collapse - some times it'll just fall out!

[Achto 27,601]

3 hours ago, Gregor said:

is it better to use galvanized pipe, or black pipe?

 

Galvanized would not be suggested for an exhaust application. I know many have used it, (myself included ) but galvanized metal emits a poisonous gas when it is heated. For this reason it should not be used for exhaust pipe.

[WHX?? 48,828]

Kinda explains yer brain damage from welding galvanized. ... here all along we thought it the Captains. ..

[Gregor 4,846]

2 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Be real carefull if you are going to try and remove the engine nipple.

I tried that once on another engine.. My 125 I think. I had to have the machine shop remove it.. Don't remember now why I wanted it out.

[Gregor 4,846]

26 minutes ago, Achto said:

but galvanized metal emits a poisonous gas when it is heated.

I use to weld galvanized grain bin ladders. This might explain a lot.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

galvanized metal emits a poisonous gas when it is heated

 

Just when HEATED?  I thought it was only when INCINERATED, aka by welding.  I don't think there's much issue with just heating it.  After all, how many furnaces are made of galvanized sheet metal? 

[Pullstart 62,910]

13 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Just when HEATED?  I thought it was only when INCINERATED, aka by welding.  I don't think there's much issue with just heating it.  After all, how many furnaces are made of galvanized sheet metal? 

engine exhaust and the exterior sheet of a furnace are two different temps indeed.  

[Achto 27,601]

15 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Just when HEATED?  I

 

Hot dipped galvanized can start emitting harmful gas at 392 degrees f.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

7 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

Hot dipped galvanized can start emitting harmful gas at 392 degrees f.

 

Just what I needed to know, thanks! 

 

Now ya got me wondering though... I need to put some new batteries in my IR thermomastatter... just how hot do the exhaust actually get?  I know, "hotter'n'hell" but how hot is hell?  (pretty sure I'll find out some day!)

Edited July 30, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

13 minutes ago, pullstart said:

exterior sheet of a furnace

 

I think, but not sure, that I've seen galvanized used in the fire chambers of hot air furnaces... probably wrong about that though now that I know what I know!

 

What about the HDG flue pipes?  Wonder if those get hotter than 392°F ?

 

[Achto 27,601]

2 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I think, but not sure, that I've seen galvanized used in the fire chambers of hot air furnaces... probably wrong about that though now that I know what I know!

 

I believe that most are stainless.

[WHX?? 48,828]

14 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I think, but not sure, that I've seen galvanized used in the fire chambers of hot air furnaces.

Never have

11 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

I believe that most are stainless.

High end ones yes... most are aluminized steel much cheaper which means manufactures get to sell more boxes twenty years from now 

 

MST Steel Corp | Aluminized Steel Vs. Stainless Steel - MST Steel Corp

 

[squonk 41,151]

Use sched 80 black iron. Stronger and last longer. (Sound's like a 60's commercial!) 

[rmaynard 15,514]

Wheel Horse tractors were not designed to have stack mufflers. I personally would not have one due to low hanging branches. But if you insist on having one, make a bracket to hold it upright and to support the weight. The cast iron exhaust outlet on Kohler engines is not designed for stacks without some sort of brace.

 

Just my  for the day.

[953 nut 55,315]

18 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

just how hot do the exhaust actually get? 

Mild steel will begin to glow at 1,800  degrees Fahrenheit,      If a Kohler is running a bit lean the exhaust will glow.