Gregor 4,846 #1 Posted July 26, 2021 (edited) I got the 341 on the Massey MF-14 running today. It definitely needs carb work. I may but on a China carb tomorrow, and see if it helps. When the motor is hot, it doesn't want to start. I checked, and it does have spark, but the coil is VERY hot. You can't hold onto it at all. Is this the sign of a bad coil, or could there be another issue? As I said it won't start hot. Reminds me of my 12 HP with the severely burnt exhaust valve. Oh. I forgot to ask about oil. A lot of guys seem to like Rotella. So I went to the local Auto Zone and bought a gallon. Straight 30W. When the guy rang it up, it said on the screen diesel oil. I know nothing of diesels, and was not aware they used special oil. The jug says: Shell Rotella T1 straight grade SAE30 Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil. I didn't notice that until I got home, but I used it anyway. Is this oil acceptable, or should I change it out? Getting hard to fine str8 30 W in any brand of oil around here. Edited July 26, 2021 by Gregor 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,088 #2 Posted July 26, 2021 Rotella 30W is very good oil. Disregard the diesel label. It's one of the last brands that still offer straight weight oil. The hot coil issue... Any chance it's a replacement? Most newer ones don't have the internal resistor. No resistor will definitely burn your points up faster. Or the coil could be going bad, and the resistance in it is getting high. There is a way to check them on a multimeter. Either someone will chime in here or you can Google it. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,605 #3 Posted July 26, 2021 (edited) Take a video of the OE carb so I can see the throttle shaft play top AND bottom. If the bottom doesn't have much play I'll rebuild that one for you. Just pay for the parts. The chinacarb likely won't have a large enough bore to function (right) past mid throttle but could help you diagnose issues with the OE. The oil is great. Designation SJ straight 30 oil is available here but Also tough to find. I started buying oil online. Might be about time for you to have a nice side project building a Leak down tester. Edited July 26, 2021 by ebinmaine Delete misinformation 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #4 Posted July 26, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Take a video of the OE carb so I can see the throttle shaft play top AND bottom. If the bottom doesn't have much play I'll rebuild that one for you. Just pay for the parts. The chinacarb likely won't have a large enough bore to function (right) past mid throttle but could help you diagnose issues with the OE. I have enough carbs, both China, and rebuilt Kohlers, that I don't think I am even going to me with this one. To me it does have excessive play in the top end of the throttle shaft. With it still on the motor, I can't get to the bottom. 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: The coil could be bad. I don't believe you want an internally resisted one. That would give you a lower output. Others will comment there. This is one of those topics that seems to always be debated. Personally, I don't have a clue, but I di have a new coil from isavetractors for a Kohler. I will swap it out. 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Might be about time for you to have a nice side project building a Leak down tester I could do that, or I could use the one I bought. The trouble with leak down testers is, once you get the motor at the correct timing mark, you have to some how keep it there. This motor is mounted sideways on the Massey, compared to a WH. Edited July 26, 2021 by Gregor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,153 #5 Posted July 26, 2021 You need an internally resisted coil. Ex. Napa IC14. Do not use one with no resistor. Keep the Rotella. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,605 #6 Posted July 26, 2021 55 minutes ago, Gregor said: have enough carbs, both China, and rebuilt Kohlers, that I don't think I am even going to me with this one. To me it does have excessive play in the top end of the throttle shaft. With it still on the motor, I can't get to the bottom If that one is rebuildable and will work on a Kohler engine, and you don't want it, let me know please. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #7 Posted July 26, 2021 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: If that one is rebuildable and will work on a Kohler engine, and you don't want it, let me know please. I believe the play in the throttle shaft is excessive, but I am far from an expert. I did remove the choke shaft to put in the china carb. If you want it, it's yours. Message me your address, and I will send it out post haste. I may send one or two more. Do you have any use for the style 30? I also have those. Personally, I have no problem with running the china carbs.I have several of them on. All my motors seem to start and run just fine. The bore on the motor side of the Kohler carb is 1.1966. The china carb, 1.1666. To me, that is negligible, and not a cause for concern, but remember, I'm no expert. I replaced the carb, coil, and condenser. The motor will now run without choke, and seems to idle OK. It's still a bit rough, which make me suspect the valves. I don't know any way to properly check them, besides pulling the head. That will have to happen at a later date. A leak down test may tell me something, but I prefer to see with my own eyes. The coil only gets warm to the touch, I suppose from radiated heat from the motor, after running 20 minutes. Shut it off when hot, and it will restart instantly. Now the tractor will go to storage until I am ready to tackle it. Right now I have a Kohler MV 16 to focus on. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #8 Posted July 26, 2021 2 hours ago, Gregor said: Do you have any use for the style 30? Ok, so I meant 16. I aint too bright ya know. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites