Fuel Pump Leaking Oil

[tntatro 171]

Hello, I've managed to fix all the leaks on my K301 except the governor shaft area collects dust over time and the fuel pump always drops oil from the bottom of the lever. I think the lever might be a manual pump/primer, not sure, but does anyone know if it can be fixed so it doesn't leak oil? I put a new diaphragm in because it also leaked gas. It's hard to see in the picture but there is a drop of oil at the bottom of the lever. The pump has blue paint on it so I don't think it was originally from a wheel Horse. I'm considering getting a new pump but I hate to put a plastic one on. I was going to put an electric pump on but couldn't find a good place to mount it.

 

Anyone ever had an oil leak from fuel pump problem and found a fix for it?

 

Thanks, Tim

[953 nut 55,229]

11 hours ago, tntatro said:

Anyone ever had an oil leak from fuel pump   YES   problem and found a fix for it?  NO

It may be worthwhile to remove and clean up the crankcase breather (valve cover). If that is not breathing the presure will seek another path.

Edited July 25, 2021 by 953 nut

[peter lena 8,627]

@tntatro, agree  with  @953NUT , above on the engine venting issue , normally Loctite  hi temp silicone black sealant gets it done , when you do clean out and inspect that valve cover area , lay out the pieces as removed and also have  reference picture of  its assembly , almost wonder if the possible lower exhaust  routing is increasing internal engine back pressure ? pete  

[tntatro 171]

3 hours ago, 953 nut said:

It may be worthwhile to remove and clean up the crankcase breather (valve cover). If that is not breathing the presure will seek another path.

Thanks, I didn't think of that. I have a different valve cover that has a barbed fitting and 1/4" fuel line connected and runs down past the bottom of the engine. It was a purchase from Kirk Engines website. It's meant to keep the front of the engine cleaner. I wonder if a mud wasp got up in the hose. Although it appeared to be breathing judging by the oily buildup where the end of the hose was sitting. I'll check it out. The engine only has about 25 hours on it since I rebuilt it. 

[tntatro 171]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@tntatro, agree  with  @953NUT , above on the engine venting issue , normally Loctite  hi temp silicone black sealant gets it done , when you do clean out and inspect that valve cover area , lay out the pieces as removed and also have  reference picture of  its assembly , almost wonder if the possible lower exhaust  routing is increasing internal engine back pressure ? pete  

I like to put sealant around the gaskets on the cover also, I've rebuilt about a half dozen K series and noticed they tend to leak oil if things aren't sealed up nicely. 

 

I just recently put the new muffler on, the old one had some rust holes in it. The pump has always leaked since I rebuilt the engine. I would like to find a better elbow fitting for it though. My old muffler didn't back fire. With the new one I have to let it low idle for twenty seconds or so before shutting down.

 

I have another K301 that also has a leaky fuel pump. That pump is a little different but the pin that holds the lever that rests on the camshaft kept moving out one way and I had to keep pushing it back in and finally I put a little JB weld over the ends of the pin. Maybe I'm doing something wrong on the breather assemblies but they appear pretty simple and I refer to the manual for assembly. This one has a normal valve cover. I've only run it about six hours.

[peter lena 8,627]

@tntatro , was not aware that this was recently rebuilt ,  having gone over to the  CAR- BOLE ELECTRIC PUMP , 2-3.5 PSI , https://www.amazon.com/CarBole-Electric-Gasoline-Universal-Operating/dp/B01B7DCO6Q?th=1  you might consider that to rid yourself of the pump issue . no issues at all with it , just silent running and instant starts , that engine breather issue , is a more thorough look for source , let us know what you find, pete

[tntatro 171]

I just checked the breather hose and when I start the engine it blows out air so it appears to be working alright. 

 

The pictures with blue paint are the fuel pump. On the side with the lever there appears to be a rubber washer and the other side has a push washer. I might be able to take that apart and put in new washers. I may even cover the pin holes with JB Weld.

 

The third picture is a different fuel pump that I covered the pin with JB Weld because it was leaking.

 

The last picture is the breather cover. It's hard to get a good picture of it. 

[tntatro 171]

34 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@tntatro , was not aware that this was recently rebuilt ,  having gone over to the  CAR- BOLE ELECTRIC PUMP , 2-3.5 PSI , https://www.amazon.com/CarBole-Electric-Gasoline-Universal-Operating/dp/B01B7DCO6Q?th=1  you might consider that to rid yourself of the pump issue . no issues at all with it , just silent running and instant starts , that engine breather issue , is a more thorough look for source , let us know what you find, pete

I'd like to put an electric pump on but there isn't a convenient place for one. This model has the gas tank under the hood. I thought about putting a 90 elbow just after the fuel shut off valve and have the pump dangle down and run a sturdy ground wire to the frame somewhere. Then I could run the hose through the safety switch frame by the pedal and then around the shroud up to the carburetor. There may not be much room for a fuel filter though, I'll have to check it out more closely. 

[squonk 41,118]

49 minutes ago, tntatro said:

I'd like to put an electric pump on but there isn't a convenient place for one. This model has the gas tank under the hood. 

Here's mine on my C-160

 

[peter lena 8,627]

@tntatro, my tank is under seat , 1982 C-85  horse , did not like my options for the rear mount area , so mounted it up front , near the original  mechanical pump , using perforated  s/s  scrap , as the mount, bolted it to the corner of the front of engine bolt and bolt cover for original fuel pump , that tucked it up under the front air filter frame area . all new clear vinyl fuel lines , new tank valve , and two fuel filters , one on main line another just before carb. also added a SMALL  LED GREEN LIGHT ON PUMP RUNNING ,  just above key switch , just to keep me informed of operation . once your engine pump area is closed off. you are free to set up what ever works for you , moved my first pump mount , on frame near steering gear , to front of engine , looks better and works very well , pete  

[tntatro 171]

23 hours ago, squonk said:

Here's mine on my C-160

 

I might have to get another electric fuel pump and try a little harder this time. I got one a while back but couldn't find a convenient place so I put it on a C-81 then sold it.

[tntatro 171]

22 hours ago, peter lena said:

@tntatro, my tank is under seat , 1982 C-85  horse , did not like my options for the rear mount area , so mounted it up front , near the original  mechanical pump , using perforated  s/s  scrap , as the mount, bolted it to the corner of the front of engine bolt and bolt cover for original fuel pump , that tucked it up under the front air filter frame area . all new clear vinyl fuel lines , new tank valve , and two fuel filters , one on main line another just before carb. also added a SMALL  LED GREEN LIGHT ON PUMP RUNNING ,  just above key switch , just to keep me informed of operation . once your engine pump area is closed off. you are free to set up what ever works for you , moved my first pump mount , on frame near steering gear , to front of engine , looks better and works very well , pete  

Thanks, I'll have to get a pump and see what I can do. 

[tntatro 171]

Thanks for the help. I installed the electronic fuel pump today. I ended up making a small plate that attached over the hole for the original pump and attached the new pump to it.

 

I'm still waiting for a 90 fitting so the line coming into the pump doesn't kink. I probably didn't need the fuel filter that attaches to the pump since there's already one in the fuel line but the directions for the pump said it was required. It would be a lot easier with just a 90 barbed fitting going into the pump.

 

I also ordered a 1" copper street elbow to see if it will fit better on the exhaust and allow better air flow.